I just bought my 1st kit got it running no problem but when I'm not on the throttle it seems to want to stall. I am not very mechanical by nature and have no clue to why this is happening. I see on YouTube about after market carboraters and I could use a little advise.
can I put an after market carborater on a new kit before the so called break in period?
- Thread starter Rick73
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FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
Use the search function in the top right corner of the page. Search (titles only, I think) for NT Carb Adjustment .. there should be some pictures for reference there.
The idle screw needs setting, but after the needle height is set.
Needle height affects the performance at lower throttle.
The needle has four or five notches, on which there is a C clip. Press the C clip off the needle and put it back on the next notch up. This drops the needle a little bit and gives a leaner air/fuel mixture during the 0-3/4 throttle.
This is all I had to do to the NT carb (for break-in stage). It still runs rich at all times, but it is fairly evenly rich. Rich is good for break-in stage, but yours may be just way too rich at the moment.
The cheap after market carb is unlikely to help. Especially if you can fix this in less than five minutes by moving the clip up to the next notch on the needle.
The idle screw needs setting, but after the needle height is set.
Needle height affects the performance at lower throttle.
The needle has four or five notches, on which there is a C clip. Press the C clip off the needle and put it back on the next notch up. This drops the needle a little bit and gives a leaner air/fuel mixture during the 0-3/4 throttle.
This is all I had to do to the NT carb (for break-in stage). It still runs rich at all times, but it is fairly evenly rich. Rich is good for break-in stage, but yours may be just way too rich at the moment.
The cheap after market carb is unlikely to help. Especially if you can fix this in less than five minutes by moving the clip up to the next notch on the needle.
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I'll give that a try tomorrow. thanks
6blueoval9
Well-Known Member
To answer your question, Yes you can use a different carburetor to break in the motor....The only thing is it needs to be tuned rich just like a stock one would have to be.
I moved up the little clip on the throttle needle and messed with the screw. I did break a peddle so it was tuff to get started with one peddle but when I went to throttle I noticed the throttle was sticking not letting me throttle, after some messing around I got the throttle to actually move then when I held in the clutch lever it would give a loud wine like I was ganna take off like a bat out of hell. what's that all about? I did order a new throttle which will arrive tuesday. I'm hoping that will fix the wining problem. Any advise is always appreciated.
I am not mechanical knowledgeable so I don't know some terms or what's what. so with that said when you say tuned rich does that mean the fuel mix ratio?
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
You have some speed reading to do! You can pick up the jargon and the background info quicker than anyone can type it. It just takes a bunch of browsing and reading whenever you get a chance.
I should have pointed out that the idle adjustment screw is there to hold up the carb slide, to prevent it closing completely when you release the throttle.
It's hard to predict what level of detail to go into in replies and so no single post explanation can be considered complete.
It sounds like you screwed the idle screw in while the carb slide was all the way down, perhaps before starting the engine, so the idle screw just pressed onto the side of the slide instead of under its beveled edge, so instead of the idle screw tip providing a little ledge for the slide to rest on, it just jammed against it, making it appear that the throttle was sticking.
Take a good look at the carb with the filter box removed.. the carb slide with its beveled edge and the tip of the idle screw is visible through the air intake.
If you ordered a better throttle, that's great because the plastic kit one is utter crap anyway. If you ordered another stock plastic throttle then I'm sorry but you jumped the gun ordering parts if I'm correct about why the throttle seemed to be sticking.
The throttle cable in the kit is unlikely to be properly lubricated of course, so you should also pay attention to this during the install, too.
The idle screw can be adjusted after getting the engine started, it only needs to hold up the slide just enough to keep engine running while the clutch is pulled and throttle released. You should screw it in a bit while the slide is raised slightly (by the throttle cable being pulled) then you can let the slide drop back down again onto it.
With regards to the word "rich", this usually (and pretty much always whenever we're talking about carb adjustment) refers to the air / fuel ratio.
We like it to be slightly too rich during break-in stage.. too much fuel (fuel= gasoline and oil, premixed) for the amount of air, so that it doesn't enable all the fuel to burn. This provides extra unburned fuel for cooling, lubrication and rinsing away metal particles during the initial breaking in period.
It is also good to run a slightly more oily gas to oil ratio in that premixed fuel during the break-in, like maybe 24:1 if you're using a high quality synthetic lube, or even more oily than that if you have the dinosaur crap oil. (Opinions on the best ratio do differ!)
I should have pointed out that the idle adjustment screw is there to hold up the carb slide, to prevent it closing completely when you release the throttle.
It's hard to predict what level of detail to go into in replies and so no single post explanation can be considered complete.
It sounds like you screwed the idle screw in while the carb slide was all the way down, perhaps before starting the engine, so the idle screw just pressed onto the side of the slide instead of under its beveled edge, so instead of the idle screw tip providing a little ledge for the slide to rest on, it just jammed against it, making it appear that the throttle was sticking.
Take a good look at the carb with the filter box removed.. the carb slide with its beveled edge and the tip of the idle screw is visible through the air intake.
If you ordered a better throttle, that's great because the plastic kit one is utter crap anyway. If you ordered another stock plastic throttle then I'm sorry but you jumped the gun ordering parts if I'm correct about why the throttle seemed to be sticking.
The throttle cable in the kit is unlikely to be properly lubricated of course, so you should also pay attention to this during the install, too.
The idle screw can be adjusted after getting the engine started, it only needs to hold up the slide just enough to keep engine running while the clutch is pulled and throttle released. You should screw it in a bit while the slide is raised slightly (by the throttle cable being pulled) then you can let the slide drop back down again onto it.
With regards to the word "rich", this usually (and pretty much always whenever we're talking about carb adjustment) refers to the air / fuel ratio.
We like it to be slightly too rich during break-in stage.. too much fuel (fuel= gasoline and oil, premixed) for the amount of air, so that it doesn't enable all the fuel to burn. This provides extra unburned fuel for cooling, lubrication and rinsing away metal particles during the initial breaking in period.
It is also good to run a slightly more oily gas to oil ratio in that premixed fuel during the break-in, like maybe 24:1 if you're using a high quality synthetic lube, or even more oily than that if you have the dinosaur crap oil. (Opinions on the best ratio do differ!)
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when I first put the bike together it ran good, a little shaky but ran. I had the carb lever all the way down ( guessing that means carb is fully open) and the screw mostly screwed out. If I closed the carb ( lever midway) it felt like the bike wanted to stall so I left it open.
and yes I ordered the same throttle that came with the bike, being new to motorized bikes I didn't know any better. like when I bought a new after market air filter it came with a clamp to clamp on the carb but there isn't enough on the carb to clamp onto so I'll be buying a new carb In my future after I get all these bugs worked out.
I appreciate your feed back and I'll be looking alot of this up thanks.
and yes I ordered the same throttle that came with the bike, being new to motorized bikes I didn't know any better. like when I bought a new after market air filter it came with a clamp to clamp on the carb but there isn't enough on the carb to clamp onto so I'll be buying a new carb In my future after I get all these bugs worked out.
I appreciate your feed back and I'll be looking alot of this up thanks.
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
No problem I just wish I had a keyboard when I'm typing a long post with one finger on a smartphone lol!
Forget about buying a new carb, the stock one is absolutely fine and probably the best for you and for a lightly modified engine. What's the diameter of the filter you got? I'm sure it is less expensive to buy a different filter or the right adapter for the stock carb, and anyway you have a good simple little carb right now. I'm using an adapter for fitting a 42mm foam filter to the stock carb, personally and I'm loving it.
The adapter is on eBay and costs a few bucks (£2.46 to me, here). I can't screen shot on this phone so just search for carburetor air filter stack pit trail dirt bike, or something.
The air filter I'm using is just a 42mm foam air filter, though I chose the one with a 45° bend.
