can I put an after market carborater on a new kit before the so called break in period?

All good advice Furry! You don't need to disable the ignition for a compression test although some folks feel running the ignition without a plug puts too much strain on the CDI box and coil, so leave a plug on the wire. I've never had a problem.

Rick- As an industrial reliability professional, I gotta tell you to put everything to "as designed" state to get it running. Repair all jury-rigged stuff like the broken pedal and carb issues to "like new" state. Otherwise you are modifying on top of modifications to make up for modifications. The stock NT carb is a pretty darned good carb, and cheap to replace. Don't bother messing with anything else. There is no gain to be had.

Guys? Beat me with a stick if I am wrong?
 
Idk.. I didn't find much evidence of design in my unbranded generic kit at all. When I unboxed it and had my first look at the Chinese 2-stroke I laughed so hard I nearly puked.
So I put things to more like the designs done by the more experienced and level headed builders. Older posts on the forum, and Jaguar's advice seemed to suit my type of engine since the kits available for me are more like the older versions that you get over there.
I aimed to be conservative and do the modifications that are pretty much universally acknowledged to be good ideas, and to do the porting conservatively, meaning that where there's some disagreement between the advice given I just went for something in between what others were doing. Nothing outside the box, so to speak.
I'm pretty sure I didn't get it all optimal first time around, but certainly a heck of a lot better than stock. :)

Steve, I think the OP would love to see your custom air filter!
 
FurryOnTheInside said:
Steve, I think the OP would love to see your custom air filter!
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No picture handy, Rick, it is a soda bottle with open cell foam stuffed inside it.
Pick the right shape bottle, it makes a big difference. No cylinder abrasion since installing it a couple years ago.

Now I'm off to church to ask forgiveness...
 
Steve Best said:
All good advice Furry! You don't need to disable the ignition for a compression test although some folks feel running the ignition without a plug puts too much strain on the CDI box and coil, so leave a plug on the wire. I've never had a problem.

Rick- As an industrial reliability professional, I gotta tell you to put everything to "as designed" state to get it running. Repair all jury-rigged stuff like the broken pedal and carb issues to "like new" state. Otherwise you are modifying on top of modifications to make up for modifications. The stock NT carb is a pretty darned good carb, and cheap to replace. Don't bother messing with anything else. There is no gain to be had.

Guys? Beat me with a stick if I am wrong?
Click to expand...


Steve the smartest guy on this forum, period. I wish some of them would listen to you Steve.
 
I changed out the spark plug it was black. the guy at Napa auto said it looked like I mixed to much oil. He suggested trying 30 to 1 mix. another said 40 to one for small engines. so what I did was drained my tank and bought a new gallon of gas and added 3 1/2 2 stroke oil. bike runs real good now. it wanted to stall when I come to a stop but holding in the clutch kept it running. did all that b4 work. I'll be able to mess with it more after work on Monday or my day off Tuesday. I want to get it idling perfect, need to attach the new air filter ( gatta finish my home aid adapter ) and I got a 22 tooth rear sprocket arriving Monday or Tuesday. I'll post some pics and or vids if possible by wed. thanks to everyone for help.
 
Rick73 said:
I changed out the spark plug it was black. the guy at Napa auto said it looked like I mixed to much oil. He suggested trying 30 to 1 mix. another said 40 to one for small engines. so what I did was drained my tank and bought a new gallon of gas and added 3 1/2 2 stroke oil. bike runs real good now. it wanted to stall when I come to a stop but holding in the clutch kept it running. did all that b4 work. I'll be able to mess with it more after work on Monday or my day off Tuesday. I want to get it idling perfect, need to attach the new air filter ( gatta finish my home aid adapter ) and I got a 22 tooth rear sprocket arriving Monday or Tuesday. I'll post some pics and or vids if possible by wed. thanks to everyone for help.
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Two things here made me go WTF? First you said it wanted to stall as you came to a stop but holding the clutch in kept it running ??? and a 22t rear sprocket ??? like I said WTF? You MUST hold in the clutch that's what it's for.And is that a mis print 22t you will never turn that.
 
Street Ryderz said:
Two things here made me go WTF? First you said it wanted to stall as you came to a stop but holding the clutch in kept it running ??? and a 22t rear sprocket ??? like I said WTF? You MUST hold in the clutch that's what it's for.And is that a mis print 22t you will never turn that.
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28 tooth my bad.and I'm new at anything with a clutch lol I just started this whole motorized bike thing so yes I'm alot clueless on things. this forum has been a life saver.but after I changed the mix to 1 gallon gas 3 1/2 oil it seems to be running great.
 

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Rick73 said:
28 tooth my bad.and I'm new at anything with a clutch lol I just started this whole motorized bike thing so yes I'm alot clueless on things. this forum has been a life saver.but after I changed the mix to 1 gallon gas 3 1/2 oil it seems to be running great.
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Even though it is running great, it may still run even better with some carb tuning if you want to attempt that. If you post a fairly high resolution close up photo of the plug people could make jetting suggestions to improve it.

Also, as was suggested, a compression test would help but should be done with the throttle wide open.
 
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