Can't get bike over 23MPH

The small gear on the clutch side has the engine seal behind it.

Use an open propane torch to check, if the idle picks up, you have found the leak.
 
The small gear on the clutch side has the engine seal behind it.

Use an open propane torch to check, if the idle picks up, you have found the leak.
I don't need to tell you this but for @Emcee 's sake there are two main engine seals, one behind the small gear on the clutch side and one behind the magneto. Clearly the magneto side seal is leaking.

@Emcee check both.

Open propane torch is another good way (unlit propane torch) to check seals (y)
 
Wow, I wish I had known that...lol...I just bought a bag of 60 of those suckers for future...lol...but they only cost me 11 bucks so not such a big deal...lol.

Those red clay like pads the Phantom85 comes with suck by the way...even with clutch adjusted properly, they still were burning up on me so I just replaced them and guess what, the new black and white ones that I have always had in the past on other motors, They are no longer "smokin"...lol.

They grip better too...lol.
Have you seen these green ones? I have been using them for the last few months since I seen them and they grip like mad and are seemingly lasting longer. They also fit absolutely perfectly. No trimming or hammering them into the basket.



Weird thing in the listing is they say they are ABS plastic, which they definitely are not. So disregard that. Who knows

I have attempted to melt a set down by feathering the clutch and havent been able to.

I have seen the same material used on a brake shoe of some sort before. A band brake for a go kart or something.
 
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Have you seen these green ones? I have been using them for the last few months since I seen them and they grip like mad and are seemingly lasting longer. They also fit absolutely perfectly. No trimming or hammering them into the basket.



Weird thing in the listing is they say they are ABS plastic, which they definitely are not. So disregard that. Who knows

I have attempted to melt a set down by feathering the clutch and havent been able to.

I have seen the same material used on a brake shoe of some sort before. A band brake for a go kart or something.

i'll buy a set and see if it melts down and prints that'll tell if it's abs or not since it melts at 400*f without additives.

the browns ones are a Organic pad and if these are ABS this would also fall under organic pads

abs is quite a strong material if done correctly i use it often along with PETG and PLA+


edit: if you have a extra pad drop it in a cup of gas for 24 hours that will tell you if it is ABS, ABS is not gas friendly
 
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i'll buy a set and see if it melts down and prints that'll tell if it's abs or not since it melts at 400*f without additives.

the browns ones are a Organic pad and if these are ABS this would also fall under organic pads

abs is quite a strong material if done correctly i use it often along with PETG and PLA+


edit: if you have a extra pad drop it in a cup of gas for 24 hours that will tell you if it is ABS, ABS is not gas friendly

Additives in ABS for use in 3D printing (generally to improve flow characteristics by lowering the glass transition temp (about 220degF), which is much lower than the melting point and would be reached in a friction drive application like this in no time) are different than those used in injection molding processes, which is how actual parts (not trinkets) are made, where they may be for impact resistance, rigidity, UV resistance, etc. Its actually an amorphous material and has no true melting point. It has a transition zone from solid to liquid thats quite wide and starts to get soft at very low temps relatively.

The stuff used in your 3D printer is not the same as what's typically found in manufactured products. Its generally a higher styrene content, hence why 3D printed ABS objects are rather weak in comparison regardless of layer adhesion properties. Even if its fully bonded and annealed. So don't get confused about your 3D printing material being anything like typical manufacturing industry plastics, as they are not.

True, ABS can be quite strong if done correctly, but it isnt a fantastic friction material. We aren't talking about "strength" here. We are talking about heat tolerance, and abrasion resistance which "friction" tends to induce.

A more appropriate chemical test would be acetone, which would show indication of dissolving immediately. No need to wait for gasoline to do its job, which is rather slow at dissolving ABS unless it has more styrene than typical, and these certainly would not even if they were ABS. At least I would hope not and they certainly don't seem to.

I suppose there could be some obscure ABS/solids composite that is used as a friction material, but I doubt it would be for an application thats subject to the type of conditions a clutch would put it through.

I am a manufacturing engineer of almost 30 years... I tend to know what materials are capable of.

Drop them in your clutch basket and give them a shot. It hardly matters what they are actually made of if they are doing their job as expected.

One thing thats immediately apparent is there is no wear in period with these as there is with the red, or the black/white ones where it gets better over a bit of riding as they bed in (if they ever really do at all). They are good right away with no perceivable change after riding a bit.
 
The magnet side seal has been the one to fail on me, the seal is thinner and the weight of the magnet probably causes the failure, if I remember a few posts back spraying the seal while running the rpm changed, if so you may have found a problem. What's interesting is you said the plug was black which indicates a rich condition, a leaking seal would lean out the mixture so the leak is probably a minor problem. How level is your carb? If it's angled too much you will not get enough fuel into the bowl at higher rpm, the engine will skip.
 
Here's one of my bikes with a 48cc that runs 31-32 with the same gearing you have, we weight about the same too. I'm at about 900 ft above sea level.
 

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I don't need to tell you this but for @Emcee 's sake there are two main engine seals, one behind the small gear on the clutch side and one behind the magneto. Clearly the magneto side seal is leaking.

@Emcee check both.

Open propane torch is another good way (unlit propane torch) to check seals (y)

I am guessing the concept here is that if the propane seeps in through an open seal, the idle will increase because of the extra 'fuel' in the motor?
 
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