artmaker
Active Member
Scroll up to the top post here. I posted a short video shows what I have. Ignore the part about the other carb I bought, I used the one I took off.
Carb issues again, come help.
- Thread starter artmaker
- Start date
slow response huh?
that could mean its eather too lean (not enough fuel) or too rich (too much fuel)
a simple test is to close the choke a little bit at a time (not all the way but a little at a time, rev it, if it gets better its lean, if it gets worse its rich)
its easier to do it with 2 people (one adjusts the choke while the other hits the throttle)
EDIT: also, did you adjust the valves when the engine was warm or cold? because most engine need to be warm to get the proper valve specs.
every engine that bogs that ive worked on was lean (my buddies father had a weed wacker with those diframe carbs, he bought 3 new ones, new fuel lines, new filters, he still couldnt figure it out, he gave up and gave it to me. took me about 5 minutes to figure out it was running lean. i had to cut slots in the carbs adjustment screws as they dont want people fixing there own stuff. just there dealers. turned it 1/4 richer and BAM running like new!)
anyway, side tracked.
i think its running lean, very easy to fix, just need a jet drill kit (there like 4$, just be sure to measure the bits first)
artmaker
Active Member
First, not sure where to "adjust the choke." Is that the small screw on the side?
And yea I did the valves on a cold motor. Easy enough to do those again though. So run around the block a few times THEN do it?
Could that explain why the exhaust side was so tight I couldn't get the gauge in at all?
I found another video, something I will try next. Clean this little plastic jet screw.
artmaker
Active Member
Oh this motor is a sick sad thing. Got it out on Memorial day. Harder than a B to get started. Darn near ripped the skin off my hand pulling over and over. Finally got out a leather gardening glove. Fiddle with the choke, gave it fuel, no choke, no fuel.... not sure how it kicked but it finally kicked. Gave it just a little throttle and killed it..... start the pulling again. I hate this thing!!!!!!!
Still got the delay between giving it gas and it going.
So something is out of adjustment here.
Lets just start over. Pretty sure cleaning the carb is NOT the issue. It's a fuel air mix I'm sure. (Gees, these aren't all that complicated. What else could it be?)
So....
First valve adjustment. Someone mentioned this needs to be done warm. Ok, HOW warm? Like ride for a half hour, good and hot warm? Fire it up, turn it off warm?
And how would one adjust valves on a motor that won't even start?
Again, last year (first time I ever did this) they were so loose you could dance under there. This year, intake was just a hair wide, exhaust was so tight I couldn't even slide the gauge between the parts. (did this cold.)
Now... for a different motor, I watched a video showing how you turn the motor so the... oh, gonna get the terms wrong here, the thingy is up. Like putting the timing to zero or some such thing. (Hope you all know what Im talking about.)
But on mine, I don't know how to do that. Doesn't seem to be a way to turn the motor so the.... lifters? are up. OR if I even need to.
Then the carb. go to my first post here, about :52 into that video shows my carb. (Ignore the new one, not using it.)
There is a tiny gold screw on the side, seems to be the fuel/air mix. It doesn't seem to do a whole lot, can barely hear a difference in how the motor sounds when I give it quarter turn adjustments. BUT then there is a black screw (hard to see in that video but clear in the one JUST above this post.) That one seems to do a LOT to the idol speed. (Didn't help with starting it up though and no matter how I adjust these, the lag between gas and go is still there.) Also... after the parade and such, I road around town until the motor was fully heated up. Only when it's really hot can I get up to the same top speed I did when it was new. Maybe this matters?
Then there is one adjustment screw I only read about, seems to be sealed. People have said you need to drill it out.... well lets save that for last. This motor DID run well when it was new without drilling out anything. Now I do have the original carb so if you all insist I need to do any drilling I can tinker with that.
So two screws I know both seem to adjust air/fuel mix. But I haven't a clue how to get the balance right. And WHY is this suck a monster to start up. Gees I have an ancient lawn mower I bought used years ago, never do anything to maintain it other than check the oil and it starts up every spring just fine. WHY is this bike such a royal pain?
One thing I have not yet checked is the spark plug. Brand new just last year but again, could be cruddy by now. Next time I go out to work on it I'll check that first. I'll wait to see what you guys say on the carb and valves, always tons to do on a bike. (Other stuff in my life too.)
Still got the delay between giving it gas and it going.
So something is out of adjustment here.
Lets just start over. Pretty sure cleaning the carb is NOT the issue. It's a fuel air mix I'm sure. (Gees, these aren't all that complicated. What else could it be?)
So....
First valve adjustment. Someone mentioned this needs to be done warm. Ok, HOW warm? Like ride for a half hour, good and hot warm? Fire it up, turn it off warm?
And how would one adjust valves on a motor that won't even start?
Again, last year (first time I ever did this) they were so loose you could dance under there. This year, intake was just a hair wide, exhaust was so tight I couldn't even slide the gauge between the parts. (did this cold.)
Now... for a different motor, I watched a video showing how you turn the motor so the... oh, gonna get the terms wrong here, the thingy is up. Like putting the timing to zero or some such thing. (Hope you all know what Im talking about.)
But on mine, I don't know how to do that. Doesn't seem to be a way to turn the motor so the.... lifters? are up. OR if I even need to.
Then the carb. go to my first post here, about :52 into that video shows my carb. (Ignore the new one, not using it.)
There is a tiny gold screw on the side, seems to be the fuel/air mix. It doesn't seem to do a whole lot, can barely hear a difference in how the motor sounds when I give it quarter turn adjustments. BUT then there is a black screw (hard to see in that video but clear in the one JUST above this post.) That one seems to do a LOT to the idol speed. (Didn't help with starting it up though and no matter how I adjust these, the lag between gas and go is still there.) Also... after the parade and such, I road around town until the motor was fully heated up. Only when it's really hot can I get up to the same top speed I did when it was new. Maybe this matters?
Then there is one adjustment screw I only read about, seems to be sealed. People have said you need to drill it out.... well lets save that for last. This motor DID run well when it was new without drilling out anything. Now I do have the original carb so if you all insist I need to do any drilling I can tinker with that.
So two screws I know both seem to adjust air/fuel mix. But I haven't a clue how to get the balance right. And WHY is this suck a monster to start up. Gees I have an ancient lawn mower I bought used years ago, never do anything to maintain it other than check the oil and it starts up every spring just fine. WHY is this bike such a royal pain?
One thing I have not yet checked is the spark plug. Brand new just last year but again, could be cruddy by now. Next time I go out to work on it I'll check that first. I'll wait to see what you guys say on the carb and valves, always tons to do on a bike. (Other stuff in my life too.)
Ok, so, im the one that said adjust them warm, it seems your valves are miss adjusted. I would do .005 on both the intake and the exhuast (cold) the reason it ran fine when it got really hot is that the valve gap expanded (heat expands, so does the valve gap)
Now you say that there are 2 air fuel mix screws? Thst could be the high speed and the low speed mix screw (like a weed wacker)
I would tinker with those after you adjusted the valves (keep in mind, when you tighten them, recheck as the gap could of changed)
Also that black screw is the idle adjustment screw, it adjusts your idle
Good luck!
The_Aleman
Well-Known Member
Do not do the valve adjustment hot, this is an aircooled engine. It's supposed to be done cold.
motoredbikes.com
How to adjust your GXH50/Huasheng/Titan valves
On the other forum I was asked how to adjust the valves on a Huasheng. So I wrote up a procedure, perhaps it can help someone here, too. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tools you need to do the job: Feeler gauge set with .004"...
motoredbikes.com
artmaker
Active Member
OOOHHHHH ..... remove the plug and pull the cord... THAT'S how to find TDC.... Not sure how a straw in the spark plug hole will help. Maybe just watching the valves open and close I can figure it out. At least I have a good clue here. Thanks. Hopefully I can get out there tomorrow and tinker. (cold is good too, accidentally banged into the exhaust pipe while trying to restart this thing after the Memorial day stuff, now I got a nice big blister on my knuckle. DANG that thing gets hot!!! Waaaaa!!!!)
gary55
Well-Known Member
Thank you!Do not do the valve adjustment hot, this is an aircooled engine. It's supposed to be done cold.
How to adjust your GXH50/Huasheng/Titan valves
On the other forum I was asked how to adjust the valves on a Huasheng. So I wrote up a procedure, perhaps it can help someone here, too. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tools you need to do the job: Feeler gauge set with .004"...
gary55
Well-Known Member
When your puling the cord you will notice there is one point when it is hard to pull. That is the compression stroke. Both valves are closed durring this stroke and can be adjusted at this time. Check it out hay they are both loose. .004" intake .006" exhaust cold. The gap does not increase as lays said it gets smaller as the engine heats up because the valve stems grow from heat expansion, but the expansion is calculated in these numbers.
