cargo trailer (Made from scrap)

Status
Not open for further replies.

danlandberg

Active Member
Local time
6:47 AM
Joined
Apr 25, 2009
Messages
583
Location
So Oregon
This trailer I built from digaurded scrap metal. The frame is a couch of some sort. Looked like it should have been in a custom van. The tongue is made of two satellite dish mount arms. the coupler is made from several different recliner (chair) parts. rims don't match but were free. Sorry forgot to rename the photos.
 

Attachments

  • trailer-volt reg 036.jpg
    trailer-volt reg 036.jpg
    289.9 KB · Views: 413
  • trailer-volt reg 018.jpg
    trailer-volt reg 018.jpg
    131.8 KB · Views: 428
  • trailer-volt reg 035.jpg
    trailer-volt reg 035.jpg
    303.9 KB · Views: 428
  • trailer-volt reg 025.jpg
    trailer-volt reg 025.jpg
    253.5 KB · Views: 428
Without the tote, it doubles as a bike trailer for my daughter's or son's 20" bmx's. One at a time though.
 
Without the tote, it doubles as a bike trailer for my daughter's or son's 20" bmx's. One at a time though.
Not too shabby, I've seen a golf ball on a big screw, and a piece of pvc as a cap over to lead the trailer like a normal ball type trailer attachment, I really like the use of that satellite dish armature, it just makes the perfect bends for the job, and from having removed them from several roofs I did notice how sturdy that stuff really is. Never thought to save any of it instead of letting scrappers take it all instead! It's hard to say if pvc or steel is going to be stronger, I think the ball pivot would be a step up from the linkage that you figured out (quite well.) They seem to be more robust because the load is concentrated right within the area that the load with change its pull on, as in there are no parts to pry apart because the load and forces acting on it aren't playing so much on tension of multiple moving parts, it's concentrating it entirely into only one moving part that is extremely strong and conformed to a sphere (a very strong structural element with no catch points, the force against it is always a 90° tangent towards the center of the sphere which is heavily stabilized against axial load, at which point the weakest element is the actual strength of the post itself (and the density of the material that makes the sphere, worth considering if your sphere is soft enough to think about. Cheap steel obviously doesn't work as good as great steel so a tow ball is another one of those 'get what you pay for' things. That sphere is surrounded by yet another sphere (or close approximation) which is also heavily (or not) reinforced which the actual source of load is connected to.

With the stretched universal joint the axial load is no longer confined within a certain tolerance so the reinforcement must be higher as sheering forces are applied at a distance apart from center which creates the leverage that tears the hinge apart. The same idea would apply if you shortened the u-frames you used to make the joint then the actual strength of it would be higher against being pulled apart. If you fashion the axiis points farther away the system gets weaker unless overbuilt to compensate.

Sorry for getting off track, the idea is great but ultimately I could perceive you doing just as good a job with a better ability to tow with your bike that could take on 2 bikes, I say this because the company that made mine rated it for 100 pounds of child meat, I put more in it than that and did fine, although I didn't use children meat because they don't sell that at Walmart. Either way it worked and they just used a really heavy spring, I would imagine a towball would be a much better option just because of the way it handles things without having a significant number of failure points, and the ability to be really robust for the volume of material to do the job, it relies on little yet is very efficient and safe compared to more complex structures of joints.
 
Well Franky, Thanks, I think. I'm a fabricator. I try to make what I need to work from crap people toss out. Everything I make at the moment is done with minimal tools, hacksaw, files (no grinder, YET) cordless drill. I do have a vise though. And a claw hammer LoL. I put a little thought and a lot of time into my projects. Most of the non hands on time is thinking of the pros and cons of the functionality. I'll post a pic of how it hooks up. mine is much better than the failure prone spring coupler. I have pulled close to 80 lbs with this trailer and no problems except stopping. I plan to put rear coaster brake rims on it. I'll post that too. It's going to add weight. Harder to take off, but it will stop. As far as towing two bikes is no problem, I didn't have another piece of Chanel long enough. I plan on putting wood slats as a platform and wood rails for an enclosure. (get rid of the tote). It will look like a 20s/30s flat bed truck.
I'm planning a single wheel trailer (on paper and thought) just need to find the discarded stuff for the project.
Iv'e seen the trailer seat post hitches, don't like the high push (under braking) high pull (acceleration and slow sharp turns). I like the low tongue gravity with the weight i can put on this trailer.
 
That's what I was thinking. The forks will have to be widened. My bike is a multi-speed, 6 in rear, old 18 speed PEUGEOT mountain bike.
I have a plan on the fork being a quick disconnect that needs to swivel up and down. I'm always looking at things I can use that don't cost anything.
 
Said I would post again. The hitch works great.
 

Attachments

  • hitck bike trailer 001.jpg
    hitck bike trailer 001.jpg
    259.7 KB · Views: 377
  • hitck bike trailer 003.jpg
    hitck bike trailer 003.jpg
    278.4 KB · Views: 357
  • hitck bike trailer 004.jpg
    hitck bike trailer 004.jpg
    285.2 KB · Views: 395
  • hitck bike trailer 002.jpg
    hitck bike trailer 002.jpg
    263.2 KB · Views: 374
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top