Centrifugal Centrifugal clutch and Start from zero (with no paddling)

Status
Not open for further replies.
interesting video, but where do you get the parts? Could you please put a link to the place where they can be boughtt?

also since I am a beginner at these type of things, I have to ask if wd40 is really good lubercation for the crankshaft extension bearing? I would imagine that the possibliity of burning up the bearing probable. would it now be possible to use a heavier lubercant?

I just ordered from JN motors, it was out of stock and then there was one so i rushed to buy it but I'm shure thei'll bring more so just contact them here's link: http://www.jnmotorsbikes.com/product_p/jnm1166.htm
heres from other stores: http://www.gasbike.net/Centrifugal-Clutch-Kit.htm
http://www.kingsmotorbikes.com/bike-motor-engine-centrifugal-clutch.htm
 
You are giving bad advise.
A commonly available centrifugal clutch CAN be used in pedal start mode on the 2-stroke Chinese motorised bicycle engine.
(sigh) That is far from common, the clutch bell is not only on a freewheel, it is directly connected to the engine and has the spiral gear to connect to the output to spin the bell when you pedal.

That IS NOT spinning the clutch bell and expecting it to engage the clutch pads, which is all I have ever stipulated and simple fact.

Since that design has taken away your manual clutch, whenever you pedal it pulls the motor.

Note he doesn't show starting it?
Ever try to bump start a 2-stroke from a dead stop without drag-free pedaling to get some momentum to help?
Even worse, you have to drag the whole engine when you want to pedal the bike with engine off!
Best hope you never run out of gas or just want to push the thing around, if the wheel moves forward the engine turns with compreesion and tries to start.

All that special fabrication of special parts and all it does is let you not pull in the clutch to stop with the engine running?
That has to be worst trade-off in the history of 2-stroke MBs and the only bad advice in this topic.

Since I am a beginner at these type of things, I have to ask if wd40 is really good lubercation for the crankshaft extension bearing?
Hi JohnSteve, this is just a dumb thiing to do for anyone, especially a NooB.
WD40 is a solvent not a lubricant, the video reference to it was a poor example for the cans lift up straw spray can, I don't know of any actual oil like that so why he used it as a reference is beyond me, but then again so was the whole contrived object of it to begin with.

AGAIN THE BOTTOM LINE IS GET A PULL START IF WANT A CENT CLUTCH!
 
Starting the engine is no problem at all, if the carburettor is jetted optimally, but that goes for any engine.

I have never advised to use WD40. I have simply used the reference for the applicator tube or nozzle, as most people know what WD40 is, and the applicator nozzle happens to be 2.35mm external diameter, of which the hole in the gaskets and bevel gear are 2.5mm in diameter.

I have made specific note in the video description of the the best aerosol lubricant to use.

The manual clutch is retained, allowing you to pedal the bike without the engine operating.

And lastly, the centrifugal clutch is surprisingly reliable, when making basic reliability upgrades. The centrifugal clutch is also the best thing since sliced bread, for once you have used it, you will never go back, especially if doing heavy haul or serious hill climbing; having to inch the bike forwards over difficult obstacles, but in general, the centrifugal clutch is a "must have" option.
 
The manual clutch is retained, allowing you to pedal the bike without the engine operating.
The centrifugal clutch is also the best thing since sliced bread, for once you have used it, you will never go back.
Maybe I missed that in the video, all I saw was tightening the flower nut tight to make the pads one with the pressure plate.
I agree with Cent clutches, with a pull start, like an automatic over a stick shift in a car, darn easy to ride.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top