Centrifugal Centrifugal Clutch in oil

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drivetrain' started by MadPC, Sep 7, 2007.

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  1. MadPC

    MadPC Guest

    Hi, I recently got a Grubee stage2 kit and how I got everything put together. now I have a question about the gear box. In the menu, it said the centri clutch can run dry on in oil. So I filled it 1/2 full w/ 10w90 gear oil.

    The problem is now the clutch doesn't transmit a lot of power(comparing when I run it just w/ grease) when I throttle it. The gear box also get really hot... I wonder that's because the clutch is still new or centri clutch is not suppose to run in oil... does anyone know alot about the centri clutch?

  2. HoughMade

    HoughMade Guest

    The references I have seen have all suggested that this gearbox run with grease- now the directions may say oil is OK, but what I am talking about is users, some of whom tried it both ways.

    I await mine (here's hoping for next week), so this is based on what I have read on the 'net.
  3. MadPC

    MadPC Guest

    I'll try to dump some oil out when I get home today... see if it helps... but clutch does engage a lot smoother w/ oil and also lower noise...
  4. MadPC

    MadPC Guest

    by the way, HoughMade, can you reference some links of feedback by other Grubee users?
  5. thatsdax

    thatsdax Guest

    I have the Applebig Version

    I agree. Run dry with grease. I also tried wet, but this caused the auto clutch to slip. The addition of GO 90 only made the transmission a little more quite. But not much. But..Since the clutch started to slip, I had to drain it all back out. Then my clutch returned to normal. Going wet did not help the whine of my straight cut gears at all anyway.. O well..
  6. hey guys!!! great to hear you talking about the grubee stage two kit! from a source i read it commented athe using atf (transmission fluid) type F the link no longer exists but i have a copy.

    step 1 lift clutch and add 90wt oil

    2 drill and tap holes in top and bottom and screw in bottom short bolt. (i gonna use the clutch arm hole instead as no need for drilling less chance of leak instead)

    3 use liquid gasket on case

    4 grease gears

    5 fill half with atf typr f.

    the manuel recommends running wet for long life so we should try and make it work!

    thatsdax could you tell us guys if you have tried running the gb with grease on gears and in a oil bath at the same time? please... or could anyone else how has done it.

    has anyone tried the atf type f?

    madpc i stated a thread called general advice for honda gxh50 users
  7. ps has anyone done a rear mount because then you could run clutch in grease as it is higher and lower gears in oil???
  8. Gearbox: Low Down Stinkin Blues

    Hi all, I installed a Staton box, gx35 Honda on a 3,000 recumbent trike. Staton says grease in his, that works fine, and he has many miles, and customers to prove that to be true.

    I recently built a JL gearbox Hua Shua (or whatever) little 50cc bike.

    Sooo, I tried 90wt hypoid rear-end and tranny grease, stunk worse than a dirtybutt, and would boil out of the vented bolt on top of the GB.....no-good, stinks, gets allover everything, buy it worked well functually.

    Cleaned all that stinky stuff out!

    Next? Well if that 90wt was too thin, I must need solid grease, so I packed the box with a light colored (kinda cream colored) Disk brake wheel bearing grease. Now, the gears work good, no bubbling out of the vent, and no stink!

    But, now the clutch starts chattering on engagement, not good!

    What to do? Well, I take a little WB grease, and a little 50wt engine oil and stir it up with a screwdriver. It did liquify, I'm on it!

    Opened the GB tilting bike on it's side and poured in a couple of ounces of the 50 wt right into the clutch area, knowing that it will liquify, and should smooth out the clutch. IT DID! Now, works wonderful, and only weeps a little out of the vent needs it's "nose" wiped a couple times a week, and no stink!

    Bad news, a few weeks later it has either stripped it's key, or destroyed the clutch bell, and now I must disassemble and find out which part has failed.

  9. MadPC

    MadPC Guest

    I drained all the gear oil out... and I greased the gear again.

    Well... then I put 6ml of 10w30 into the box... the gear now is perfectly smooth when it engage... and the clutch slipping problem is also gone!

    But there is one problem... I'll start a new topic to tell u what the problem is.
  10. MadPC

    MadPC Guest

    Engline stall problem

    Hi all, let me telling you my story...
    I am now using this Grubee stage2 kit + Honda GHX50 engine... it's a 4 stroke.

    Yesterday, I was trying to drain the oil from the gear box (since I had slipping clutch problem when the clutch run in oil instead of grease). The way I did it was to hold the bike "90 degree upward" so that the gear oil will leak out from hole... and while I was doing that... the gasoline started to leak from somewhere....(not from the tank for sure...)

    Then... at night... when I did the test run, the engine just stalled when throttle-ing... I have never seen this behavior b4 the gasolink leaking thing. Since then I kept having this stall problem no matter if it's idling or throttle-ing or anything... does anyone know where did the gasoline leak out when I hold it upon 90 degree(front tire facing upward)? And again, how do I fix this engine stall problem?
  11. StreetPlanes

    StreetPlanes Guest

    Can't say for sure but there's a very slight chance that inverting the engine might have caused the needle in the carb to fall out of its seat. That would allow gas to leak out of the carb.

    That said, check your spark plug wire and ask around some more before you go tearing into a new carb.
  12. not running right

    Check your oil, you may have filled your crankcase with gas.
    I did have that problem with the little Hua Shua once, had to drain and refill.

  13. MadPC

    MadPC Guest

    as you can see the hairpin is still here...
    and what is the dial circled in red from the picture?

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 9, 2007
  14. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    the problem is...there is no need to start a new topic to talk about the same bike.
    Don't get me wrong...this is a great topic. lots of info. I can't wait to see these 4 strokes become dependable. Let's just try to keep all the info together.
  15. MadPC

    MadPC Guest

    Ok, I really think this is a carburetor problem...

    1) I believe fuel doesn't get deliveried to the cylinder that's why it stalls when throttling
    2) it seems like the engine "use up" the fuel, then it stalls.
    3) Initially, it ran for about 30 seconds then stalled. Then it ran for 10s, then stalled... 3rd try... I have a hard time to start... stall within seconds of course....

    OK... so this stall problem is related to the carb.

    then I open it up and rebuild it. here are some pictures:

    I cleaned the whole thing w/ carb cleaner. the fuel valve is ok, the overflow cirucuit is ok, and the nozzle to the venturi is also ok. needle still look sharp and good...

    but when I put them back together... it's still have this stall problem! any1 help?

    Attached Files:

  16. Butch

    Butch Guest

    You need to replace the bolts that you removed from the cylinder head when you removed the gas tank. You may need to get shorter bolts or shim the originals with washers so they don't bottom out. The piece that you have circled is for mixture adjustment. It looks like you have it set at leanest setting. Maybe try moving it opposite way for richer mixture. Just a thought.
  17. MadPC

    MadPC Guest

    so you mean I need to put back the bolt that hold the original Tank from Honda? And that may solve the stall problem? WHy is that?
  18. Butch

    Butch Guest

    Sorry bout that. Nothin to do with the stall problem. Just thought you might start leaking oil if you didn't put the bolts back on your valve cover.
  19. MadPC

    MadPC Guest

    so does any1 know how to how fix the stalling probleM??

    It's getting worse... the engine won't run for more then 10 sec now....
  20. JosephGarcia

    JosephGarcia Guest

    So basically the engine is running until the float bowl drains of its excess fuel. then runs when it refills.

    you might have a fuel problem, check your fuel line, or a clogged filter, or maybe your just forgetting to turn the valve to on. if it starts and runs for a time then it has to be fuel. or your choke. take the carb off, clean it out, replace your fuel line add a new filter, and check the fuel valve for blockage