Centrifugal clutch kit

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Eddie Medley

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Hello

Has anyone have the cetrifugal clutch for the 2 stroke bicycle engines and I have a couple of questions

1. How good is it?

2. Where can I get one under $50?

3.how do you maintain it?

Please help it will be greatly appreicated

Thanks
 
At the price you are hoping for, nowhere for the time being. It was a bit better a couple months ago, it would appear the manufacturer makes these in batches, so the price drops suddenly with a bunch of product out, and then the price goes up or simply the vendors who sold it at a fair price run out of stock.

The best way to describe the feel is like an auto clutch on an atv, go kart, moped, scooter, or the similar. I don't like how long it took to get the pads engaged since I like my "crawling" speed with an idle. On the shift kit I thought it was nice how comming off the throttle made it significantly easier to shift on a nuvinci hub since shifting even under light power feels resistive on that hub. It was most noticeable under high speeds.

The part I did not like was first of all I had no clutch lever "feel," I could squeeze my clutch and slip into gear like I would otherwise, but it drops off when pulling out because the speed of the motor isn't enough to engage the pads. It also felt more shaky on my engine, but my crankshaft is already unbalanced so...

It's an OK addition, I don't think you should eliminate the clutch lever from your bike since you have a bit more in options with it, like starting the bike up and giving it some high revs to clear its throat, if you take the lever off you can't do that without the wheel engaging, so you have to be off the bike to do it safely. If you give it gas to keep it from passing out on an idle and you just have the auto clutch the bike takes off. Not only those things but if you get an air leak your engine will go too fast anyway and try to drive the bike on you when you don't want it to. It wasn't on my bike long enough to probably justify my opinion but it is what it is.

You may have to wait for the price to come down or just have to suck up the price it's at now.

Are you proficient at working with these motors?
 
At the price you are hoping for, nowhere for the time being. It was a bit better a couple months ago, it would appear the manufacturer makes these in batches, so the price drops suddenly with a bunch of product out, and then the price goes up or simply the vendors who sold it at a fair price run out of stock.

The best way to describe the feel is like an auto clutch on an atv, go kart, moped, scooter, or the similar. I don't like how long it took to get the pads engaged since I like my "crawling" speed with an idle. On the shift kit I thought it was nice how comming off the throttle made it significantly easier to shift on a nuvinci hub since shifting even under light power feels resistive on that hub. It was most noticeable under high speeds.

The part I did not like was first of all I had no clutch lever "feel," I could squeeze my clutch and slip into gear like I would otherwise, but it drops off when pulling out because the speed of the motor isn't enough to engage the pads. It also felt more shaky on my engine, but my crankshaft is already unbalanced so...

It's an OK addition, I don't think you should eliminate the clutch lever from your bike since you have a bit more in options with it, like starting the bike up and giving it some high revs to clear its throat, if you take the lever off you can't do that without the wheel engaging, so you have to be off the bike to do it safely. If you give it gas to keep it from passing out on an idle and you just have the auto clutch the bike takes off. Not only those things but if you get an air leak your engine will go too fast anyway and try to drive the bike on you when you don't want it to. It wasn't on my bike long enough to probably justify my opinion but it is what it is.

You may have to wait for the price to come down or just have to suck up the price it's at now.

Are you proficient at working with these motors?
Ok thank you for shedding some light on this and yes I am pretty good at working with these engines
 
At the price you are hoping for, nowhere for the time being. It was a bit better a couple months ago, it would appear the manufacturer makes these in batches, so the price drops suddenly with a bunch of product out, and then the price goes up or simply the vendors who sold it at a fair price run out of stock.

The best way to describe the feel is like an auto clutch on an atv, go kart, moped, scooter, or the similar. I don't like how long it took to get the pads engaged since I like my "crawling" speed with an idle. On the shift kit I thought it was nice how comming off the throttle made it significantly easier to shift on a nuvinci hub since shifting even under light power feels resistive on that hub. It was most noticeable under high speeds.

The part I did not like was first of all I had no clutch lever "feel," I could squeeze my clutch and slip into gear like I would otherwise, but it drops off when pulling out because the speed of the motor isn't enough to engage the pads. It also felt more shaky on my engine, but my crankshaft is already unbalanced so...

It's an OK addition, I don't think you should eliminate the clutch lever from your bike since you have a bit more in options with it, like starting the bike up and giving it some high revs to clear its throat, if you take the lever off you can't do that without the wheel engaging, so you have to be off the bike to do it safely. If you give it gas to keep it from passing out on an idle and you just have the auto clutch the bike takes off. Not only those things but if you get an air leak your engine will go too fast anyway and try to drive the bike on you when you don't want it to. It wasn't on my bike long enough to probably justify my opinion but it is what it is.

You may have to wait for the price to come down or just have to suck up the price it's at now.

Are you proficient at working with these motors?
But still what is the best websites to get it as in the next few months for any price I just need a good website to get one from
 
I also looked at the design further, most of the messing around I did with the grease in another thread of mine is not really that needed, Fabian claims that the bearing surface and the shaft extention sleeve needs to be greased because it's a load bearing surface.

The only issue is it is not a load bearing surface in reality and I see that now. I would not use the grease contraption I designed, nor would I use Fabian's design implementing drilled holes to apply grease. Reason it's not a load bearing surface is because the sleeve is going right through the clutch bell with a fraction of a hair of clearance. The shaft rotates and so does the clutch pad assembly that is bolted to it. If you simply remove the clutch bell from the equation the shaft and clutch pad assembly rotate with the crankshaft without needing to be supported, the design is just that. The clutch bell when not in drive mode only rests its weight on the shaft extention, but that's it. It's what appears to be a form of stainless steel on the model I have, and that sits with a close fit on the very hardened steel shaft extention.

The stainless/whatever steel is simply resting its small weight on the clutch gear teeth and the shaft during idle speeds. It's not enough to be damaging and certainly will not need lubrication to operate. You should only add a dab of grease to the one way bearing to keep them from locking up when pedal starting.

When the clutch is engaged with the clutch bell it's still not load bearing, the pads engage bell, and the bell turns with the crankshaft as a solid whole unit. The only grease that you need is on the actual meshing gears, which is normal. When engaged the engine doesn't put any more load on that spot between the shaft and the clutch bell gear, in fact because they spin in sync while engaged it's actually putting less stress on the metal since there is no friction at that point.

Personally I would not grease that shaft, I would more likely put graphite on the surfaces before installation and then let them run dry, which is not unusual for 2 non-load bearing surfaces with 2 different metals being in contact, since stainless surface hardens and the other is already hard enough that it chips in a vise from having too much pressure put on it.

Again I'm not claiming to be an expert. I'm just applying what I know about axial loads and general mechanical engineering to the design that is being presented here.

The only other evidence to support this claim is on jnmotors their kit listing says no lubricant required, now I have the foggiest clue where it comes from but since it supports my claim I may as well mention it. I don't see why it would fail otherwise and still can't convince myself to believe it will. Just not "enough happening" in that area to be worried about any excessive wear.

The only part I would worry about is getting that shaft on their solid and perfectly centered, since the balance of the clutch will play the biggest roll in how well it performs and the length of time which it does so.
 
But still what is the best websites to get it as in the next few months for any price I just need a good website to get one from
Well gasbike is pretty bad for what it's worth, I think jnmotors isn't any better apparently. To be honest I can't say who is the best to buy from at the moment. I would assume if you can find it on ebay or Amazon you'd be good since the hosting company will actually help you when something goes wrong. If you go with gasbike or something similar try to pay with PayPal, since of they mess up your order (gasbike is notorious for it) you can place a claim with PayPal who will basically tell them to fix the problem or they simply take the money back from them. Good luck.
 
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