Chain binding/kinking?

Will'smotobikes19

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Just when I thought I was going to be able to ride my micargi predator with a china girl the bike skids to a stop as soon as I dump the clutch. The engine did fire but it doesn't have a pipe on because there's not enough clearance for a regular pipe. I opened the cover and saw the chain was up against the metal where the bolt screws in. It happened a second time after I put a different chain on. I'm using a bicycle motorworks chain spring tensioner with the skateboard wheel. I'm thinking I need to get the wheel more centered as the bolt that came with the kit isn't long enough.
 
chain is too loose - get a solid tensioner

look for threads on how to file the mounting holes in muffler to turn it away from frame (running without it can kill a motor quickly)
 
The chain was pretty tight though the spring was on the second hole. I was under the assumption that solid ones were bad because people have said they would go into the spokes. I was thinking of making an exhaust with flexible stainless pipe and attaching an expansion chamber. I would rather do that than spend $75 on the bikeberry one.
 
The chain was pretty tight though the spring was on the second hole. I was under the assumption that solid ones were bad because people have said they would go into the spokes. I was thinking of making an exhaust with flexible stainless pipe and attaching an expansion chamber. I would rather do that than spend $75 on the bikeberry one.
Look @ how Fuzzyon the inside (Furry) did his own anti-lock up fix or they sell one on SleezBay .12.00$ And as for tension stuff , arch tensioners werk well. MBreble has a couple different sizes. (carry on)
 
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they can only go into spokes if chain is too tight (or horribly misaligned)
 
Look @ how Fuzzyon the inside (Furry) did his own anti-lock up fix or they sell one on SleezBay .12.00$ And as for tension stuff , arch tensioners werk well. MBreble has a couple different sizes. (carry on)
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Arch tensioners or something home made definitely work great. :)
I think the chain has to be without much slack at all before the spring tensioner is added, so that the spring tensioner is only damping out a few rattles and when the spring is defeated by the bump start there isn't much slack anyway. It does not require a lot of spring tension to damp out the rattles and you'll go faster, particularly when you're pedalling, if the spring tensioner isn't overly strong.
Using only a spring tensioner (particularly with no limit of travel!) lets the chain go slack when the bump start inevitably defeats the spring, and all the slack goes to the upper run of chain.
The chain usually needs to be lifted over the chain stay on most bikes anyway, and that is best done by the arch tensioner as it is closer to the ideal position, further back.

The epoxy chain retainer is a good idea anyway (I didn't invent it!) for extra security. You can fill up the space in the cover too. I just used hot melt glue for that because it doesn't get as much heat as the crankcase side.
 
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I just rode the bike for the first time using one of the hard mount tensioners and it went but the engine was revving really high and I'm not sure why I had the same exact problem when the carb was on the mini chopper. I wasn't even giving it gas and it wanted to rev max rpm. The throttle cable didn't seem to be pulled either and I'm pretty sure the carb is put together correctly. I adjusted the idle screw and it did nothing,
 
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