Chains chain breaker for 415 chain

I got a Bell chain breaker at Walmart for $5 and it worked.

I just pushed out a link though and used a master link to complete chain. I don't know if it will work to reinstall links.


Hi all, i'm looking to buy a chain breaker for 415 chain, Ive checked ebay and the net, and suppliers mentioned on this site, but can't find one, I'm in Australia but i'm quite happy to buy overseas for one around 20 dollars U.S., I have a Huasheng 4 stroke kit to fit on to a chopper/lowrider style bike i have built, anyone know where i can get a good chain breaker for this price?:)
 
Re: $110 and have to pick up will call. You are getting royally screwed!

Don't do it! For that money, it should be gold plated and delivered to your door by a man in a suit with a greeting telegram!

Buy the $5 Walmart chain tool.

But wow if you even considered it you must have a bike shop or be really dedicated.

I'd rather have the standard BMX chain but I'd need a new sprocket then. Standard bike chains are $5-10, maybe $20 if you get a rich brand.

Hi guys. I live in Adelaide, Australia and rang Pacific Brands Leisure and Fitness who are the Australian distributors of Park Tool products. They said they could get a chain tool out in about a couple of days. You have to pick up from a bike shop though.

I was told the CT-7 will cost approximately $110.00 (Aussie $). Don't know whether I will need one yet for my 415 chain, so will hold off on buying until I've had a go at installing the chain. I'm in the process of making my very first motorised bicycle.
 
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Yes, this is the best answer. I have a "broken" chain tool too (the shelf got knocked off but I don't use it either). I filed the ragged area down and it works with any width chain now (not big road motorcycles, but bike and mo bike).

The master links should come with your new chain or kit anyway, and if you measure twice and cut once, (or try the longer length first), you can do it easily.

I just removed the parts of a cheap chain tool that were in the way.They break off quite easily.
One of those removed parts is for lining up the chain tool pin with the chain rivet. The other is for loosening the tight link after pushing the rivet back in.
With those parts missing, a little more care must be used to line up the pin with the rivet. The tight link can be loosened by placing your thumb on the tight link, and flexing the chain sideways.
Be careful to not push the pin all the way out, but rather leave the pin slightly protruding on the inside of the side plate. That way when you put the ends of the chain back together the protruding pin will hold the ends together, making it easier to push the pin back in.
 
By design, a typical chain breaker tool pushes the "peened" pin thru it's mating link, then thru the axel of the link, then out. azbill has the right idea. Grind off the peened portion of the axel and push remaining portion thru the link rollar. This method results in un-damaged parts. (protect parts from abrasive dust during procedure)
 
Well, I thought I had a "415" chain. It came with the grubee box and was wider than a BMX chain I bought for the pedal side. I ordered a half link for the 415 chain, and it was a lot wider than the motor chain I had. I couldn't use it, but I see why they say it might rub tires.

Sorry for the bad info. I don't know if the cheap $5 type chain breakers can work on it.
 
There are 415 chains and 415H chains. The H chain has fat sideplates, and the rollers seem to be just a hair bigger. It fits on the cogs ok, and doesn't flex a lot, but the 415H didn't fit in my chain breaker even with the little tabs broken off. I might grind the cheap chain tool so the 415H will fit, and try it on a 1x1 mountain bike I am using (no motor).
 
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