Chain Tensioner Chain Guide / Tensioner

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Unregistered

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I have a frame that is quite angled with a result the chain guide isn't square. Advice?
49cc petrol in Universal Frame
 


azbill

Active Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2006
Messages
3,697
as long as the chain fits on the nylon wheel, it won't matter if it is angled
you could mount it to frame and the bend it with large pliers (ie: channel-locks)as well
but...I have had no probs with the chain running angled on the roller
 
B

Bean Oil

Guest
I have had no probs with the chain running angled on the roller...
Nor have I, yet; it's been just over 100 miles.

What I do seem to be having to keep an eye on is the roller axle getting a little too close to the rear wheel's spokes... I have the roller/tensioner's bracket clamped as tightly as possible on the chainstay and yet it clocks inward ever so slightly. I have to reposition the bracket every 15 miles or so.

I may just let it settle into it's postion and before the roller axle hits the spokes, remove the bracket, put it in a vice and bend the upper part of the bracket outward. This is on a 25-year-old Scwinnn Cruiser frame.
 

azbill

Active Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2006
Messages
3,697
I had the same problem with the tensioner rotating on the chainstay
the first time I mounted it, I actually crushed the stay a bit, and it still moved !!!
I used some heavy, 1/8" thick, rubber on both sides, and tightened it as much as I dared before breaking/stripping bolts
it hasn't moved yet !!!
 
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Scottm

Guest
Someone else, I think alesterfiend, used a self tapping metal screw through the tensioner bracket and into the frame.
 
B

Bean Oil

Guest
Thanks, fellas...

I like the rubber idea; I have some brick red rubber sheet that I've used elsewhere on the bike... I'll cut out a chunk for the tensioner bracket mounting and see how that works on my chainstay.


:)~
 

cooltoy

Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2008
Messages
341
Re;chain roller "thingy"

That stupid thing gave me more trouble than anthing else. I,ve worked on cars for over 20 years but for the life of me,I could not figure it out. Picture me building the bike but not being able to tell if was ever going to run. Every time I would try to start it,that thing would get into the spokes and tear them out. After a few days and a secound new rim I threw that thing away and cut the chain to fit. I had to remove the rubber at the sprocket and do a bit of filing but this allowed the sprocket to move inwards and rest against the spokes. This stopped the chain from rubbing on the "swingarm" and has never given me a ny trouble since.
 
B

bolton75

Guest
My chain does not run on the idler wheel evenly either. I have not completed my bike yet so I do not know whether this will be a major concern for me when I get the bike running.

The rear sprocket and engine drive sprocket on my bicycle line up perfectly; the chain is in correct alignment. It is the chain stay on my bike - it does not run parallel to the chain. So when you mount the idler wheel on the chain stay it too does not run parallel to the chain. The chain therefore does not run over the idler wheel perfectly. It cuts across it at a slight angle.

Anyway I was thinking that I might be able to twist the bracket slightly that holds the idler wheel in place so that the chain does run over the wheel better. I'm only going to do this if I feel I have to though. But judging by Azkronic's post above I may not have too.

Has anyone else had this particular problem. And have they just left it?
 
M

mickey

Guest
My skyliner has the same issue but hasn't given any trouble. The chain is slightly crossways but stays within the roller edges. I say leave it alone unless it actually causes grief.
 
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fetor56

Guest
My chain does not run on the idler wheel evenly either. I have not completed my bike yet so I do not know whether this will be a major concern for me when I get the bike running.

The rear sprocket and engine drive sprocket on my bicycle line up perfectly; the chain is in correct alignment. It is the chain stay on my bike - it does not run parallel to the chain. So when you mount the idler wheel on the chain stay it too does not run parallel to the chain. The chain therefore does not run over the idler wheel perfectly. It cuts across it at a slight angle.

Anyway I was thinking that I might be able to twist the bracket slightly that holds the idler wheel in place so that the chain does run over the wheel better. I'm only going to do this if I feel I have to though. But judging by Azkronic's post above I may not have too.

Has anyone else had this particular problem. And have they just left it?

Your better off giving that tensioner the flick and going to SA Dirt Bikes(cnr Grand Junction/Main North Rd) paying $25 and using one of these.Their tricky to install but once u get it working u never have to worry about the chain again.
Also go to the Port Adelaide marker on Sundays and get a KMC Cool Chain(Extreme Freestyle) K910...they fit HT sprockets PERFECTLY and don't stretch.
tensioner2.JPG
 
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