Chain Tensioner Chain loose with tensioner

[SkunxPerry]

Hello, first time posting, tried searching for this question and couldn't find it:

I recently moved my engine over to a beach cruiser type from my old mountain bike, which has a longer wheel base from rear wheel to down tube engine mounting location, and got a longer drive chain to accommodate the added length.

I took out as many links in the drive chain as I could without making the chain too short (I originally took out one too many links and spent a couple hours putting of the link back in) but even with the tensioner, I have slack in my chain, to the point that the top and bottom portions of the chain are almost touching whenever I roll the bike back and forward. (I just have the standard tensioner/idler that comes with the engine kit).

I also have my rear wheel pulled back on the mounts as far as it will go without causing intense strain on my pedal chain or having an un-aligned rear wheel and the drive chain is still very loose, but I still have about have an inch I could hypothetically pull the wheel back but it would cause my pedal side chain to become so tight it would probably snap on crank.

Is there something I can do to tension the drive chain a little more? Another type of tensioner I should pick up?

Is the answer as simple as getting a longer pedal chain and pulling the rear wheel as far back in the mounting stirrups until it bottoms against the back before mounting the pedal chain and then sizing the pedal chain around my drive chain?


Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[Slogger]

Seems like you need to take out another link. Break out a link, move the wheel forward and install the master, then move it on back.
Would that work?

 

[SkunxPerry]

I did try that originally but I've only got enough room for half a link, I tried to take out a link previously and it made the chain just a hair short even with the wheel pulled forward, and then I had to meticulously put the link back in the chain.

 

[Slogger]

When I did mine I noticed that it was very hard to get the master link on. It seemed really short.
Once it was on, though, the chain drooped quite a bit. Put your back into it, mister!
<kiddin>
I'd take out the link and find a helper to wrestle that master link in there. Four hands can do things two can only dream about.
It's the only way, other than a towering chain tensioner.

Say, they make one that spans both stays and is safer and more reliable than the usual tensioners in the kits. Costs about $30 though.
It's a curved, slotted bar with clamps at each end, the roller (or sprocket) is movable up and down the slot.
I'd just grit my teeth and grunt that link in, myself.
Edit: Here's one-
http://custommotoredbicycles.com/pa..._chain_tensionerswhite_idler_wheel_415_chains

 

[SkunxPerry]

Oh man! You rock! Got it on! You were absolutely right! It absolutely seems like it won't fit at all, I got nervous as heck when I removed that extra link, looking at it "man this is too short, I knew it" and then I wrangled it on by using a ratchet on the final drive gear to sort of feed the slack of the loose end chain while holding tight to the master link end and got them mated up and linked with the wheel off and then slipped the wheel back on and torqued down the lugs. It fits like a dream now!! Perfect slack on both chain 'n all!

Thank you more than a ton Slogger! Help like you is why I like this forum so much.

 

[Slogger]

Don't mention it. You do have to get all the slack out of the other run, I left the clutch engaged and turned the wheel against it, then popped it in.
I imagine my face was getting red by the time it was on there. I'm gettin old, the chain was greasy.. whine whine whine..

 

[SkunxPerry]

Makes sense, that is another good way, didn't even think about that!

Thanks again

 

[Slogger]

I'm glad you chain is working out.
Happy trails!