Chain Replacement and Sprocket Alignment


Local time
3:21 PM
Sep 22, 2014
The following is how I went about to replace my chain and and do an alignment between the rear sprocket and the output sprocket.

After going to a 4G with 10T output sprocket from my 12T I found out that I had to shorten my chain and after reading here that the chain should be changed out when you change a sprocket, that’s what I did.

The chain alinement was a little off with the old 12T on the output sprocket, the teeth we’re not centered in the chain, they were off closer to the engine. It has run this way for 2,200 miles.

I used a string and a pen lazer to line up the sprockets and a dial gauge to true the rear sprocket.

All that is left to do is cut the chain and install the master link and do the final adjustments. I have zip tied the chain ends to help me determine where I should cut the chain.

I have 2 choices, a cut at one link would require that I need to move the wheel back, a cut at the other link would require to move the rear wheel forward. Where the wheel is now the peddle chain is pretty snug and I have a good gap between the front of the rear tire and the fender.

Unless I lengthen the peddle chain, moving the wheel back is not an option and if I choose the link that I need to move the wheel forward I have little room to do that before running the wheel into the front of the rear fender?

I’m leaning towards cutting the peddle chain so I can move the the rear wheel back. This should allow me to get the proper tension on the drive chain and have a peddle chain that is a little on the sloppy side. I guess I could fool around with a half link but I rather do that on the peddle side?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you!


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This is the wear on the old sprockets after 2,200 miles. You can tell the chain was a little out of alinement by the way it was digging into the output sprocket, the rear sprocket doesn’t look that bad?


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Where the chain is now here is the deflection I have.


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For the chain, Get a half link master link. & if you need to move sprocket out, do that first, you can use washers or whatever as long as they are the same thickness. Place them between sprocket & hub adapter. You might need longer bolts from your sprocket to hub adapter.
Don't worry about the pedal chain too much. Hopefully you won't be pedaling. Mine is sloppy also, for the same reason. The pedals are only to convince the cops it's a motorized bicycle. Nice lookin' bike!
One thing that I need to consider is the new chain stretching. By selecting to cut the chain where I need to move the wheel back it will be putting the axle pretty close to the end of the adjustment slot.

How much does a new chain stretch?
Is that Phatmoto? So sweet!

Might want to look into half/offset links and maybe a semi-circular tensioner.

I tend to stay in top of straight tension (as I did my dirt bikes), and just run without any kind of additional wheel.
I got the hub for the rear wheel sprocket moved out to where it’s perfect.

I thought about a 1/2 master but thought I would have to remove a extra link to be able to use it? I’ll read up on them some more.

Even though I bought a new chain and master link for the peddle side i don’t want to change the out the sprockets on that side and by the book, if I put a new chain on I should change the sprockets.

The existing sprockets on the peddle side still look real good because I hardly used them.

Since I am riding more with my wife and her electric bike I’m peddling more. Her ave (mosey) speed is around 10 to 12 mph and top speed is around 14 to 16 mph.

With my new sprocket setup (10 T output sprocket and 48 T wheel sprocket) I can Cruze at 12 mph without harm my clutch. I have to peddle way less on the hills with the new sprockets too.
Here is my bike (Phantom Bicycles) they no longer make gas bikes all they do is electric now. I bought it in a kit back in 2014. My wife’s bike was my Dad’s 2013 Electric Townie. He passed 2 years ago and last year I finally got her to ride it, now she wants to ride all the time.


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This is the wear on the old sprockets after 2,200 miles. You can tell the chain was a little out of alinement by the way it was digging into the output sprocket, the rear sprocket doesn’t look that bad?
What is that collar that the chain is digging into? That shouldn't be like that, the chain should ride completely down on the sprocket. Your chain could be shorter if that collar was removed or a smaller one installed.