The following is how I went about to replace my chain and and do an alignment between the rear sprocket and the output sprocket.
After going to a 4G with 10T output sprocket from my 12T I found out that I had to shorten my chain and after reading here that the chain should be changed out when you change a sprocket, that’s what I did.
The chain alinement was a little off with the old 12T on the output sprocket, the teeth we’re not centered in the chain, they were off closer to the engine. It has run this way for 2,200 miles.
I used a string and a pen lazer to line up the sprockets and a dial gauge to true the rear sprocket.
All that is left to do is cut the chain and install the master link and do the final adjustments. I have zip tied the chain ends to help me determine where I should cut the chain.
Question:
I have 2 choices, a cut at one link would require that I need to move the wheel back, a cut at the other link would require to move the rear wheel forward. Where the wheel is now the peddle chain is pretty snug and I have a good gap between the front of the rear tire and the fender.
Unless I lengthen the peddle chain, moving the wheel back is not an option and if I choose the link that I need to move the wheel forward I have little room to do that before running the wheel into the front of the rear fender?
I’m leaning towards cutting the peddle chain so I can move the the rear wheel back. This should allow me to get the proper tension on the drive chain and have a peddle chain that is a little on the sloppy side. I guess I could fool around with a half link but I rather do that on the peddle side?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you!
After going to a 4G with 10T output sprocket from my 12T I found out that I had to shorten my chain and after reading here that the chain should be changed out when you change a sprocket, that’s what I did.
The chain alinement was a little off with the old 12T on the output sprocket, the teeth we’re not centered in the chain, they were off closer to the engine. It has run this way for 2,200 miles.
I used a string and a pen lazer to line up the sprockets and a dial gauge to true the rear sprocket.
All that is left to do is cut the chain and install the master link and do the final adjustments. I have zip tied the chain ends to help me determine where I should cut the chain.
Question:
I have 2 choices, a cut at one link would require that I need to move the wheel back, a cut at the other link would require to move the rear wheel forward. Where the wheel is now the peddle chain is pretty snug and I have a good gap between the front of the rear tire and the fender.
Unless I lengthen the peddle chain, moving the wheel back is not an option and if I choose the link that I need to move the wheel forward I have little room to do that before running the wheel into the front of the rear fender?
I’m leaning towards cutting the peddle chain so I can move the the rear wheel back. This should allow me to get the proper tension on the drive chain and have a peddle chain that is a little on the sloppy side. I guess I could fool around with a half link but I rather do that on the peddle side?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you!
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