chain tensioner - chinesium design, any fix?

Datboi

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The tensioner isn't working well because of the angle of your engine. Answered in post 9

I don't give a crap about your chain or your problem.

You claimed that ALL chains have tight and loose spots.

I am claiming that chains should not have tight or loose spots. If there is then it is another problem.

I wasn't talking about a crap chain that has worn out.

Good luck with your chain issues.
i mean, if it'll make both you and me happy, 90% of chains have tight spots?

if you ride motorcycles go to a bike meet or group ride and check the chain one every single bike, almost all have tight spots.

"I am claiming that chains should not have tight or loose spots. If there is then it is another problem"


well you keep calling it problem, i'm saying it aint. if you wanna change your motorcycle chain after 3000km because of a tight spot go right ahead.... i don't like wasting money so i'm still rocking a chain with 50k on it and tight spots and have zero issues...like most riders out there.


in a ideal world, i agree with you, it shouldn't be the case. but this real life and the fact of the matter is that almost every motorcycle rider will not bother spending hours/ lots of money on getting this perfect.

if it really is a problem like you say, why does pretty much every NEW bike develop the issue after just a few thousand km? surely if it was that easy the manufacturers would make sure the sprocket is perfectly round, the sprocket is perfectly centered and all the other stuff that causes tight spots....

if they're selling 200HP bikes that have this issue, what's the point in bothering getting it perfect on a 1hp chinesium bicycle kit....
 

Freddy Snottgrass

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As for your tensioner. Look at the angle of the engine. I used that same tensioner and had the same issues. Then I realized, in order for the chain to become tight the spring would have to pull higher than possible due to the angle of the engine. These tensioners need an engine placed high and the rear sprocket placed low. Or, the engine tilted forward a bit.

On your rear engine mount, there is a block that slides on and off the studs. Put washers behind that block, between it and the engine. It will pull your engine forward and also a bit higher on the V of the frame. I saw a video on this long ago, I will try to find it sometime today.
 

Datboi

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As for your tensioner. Look at the angle of the engine. I used that same tensioner and had the same issues. Then I realized, in order for the chain to become tight the spring would have to pull higher than possible due to the angle of the engine. These tensioners need an engine placed high and the rear sprocket placed low. Or, the engine tilted forward a bit.

On your rear engine mount, there is a block that slides on and off the studs. Put washers behind that block, between it and the engine. It will pull your engine forward and also a bit higher on the V of the frame. I saw a video on this long ago, I will try to find it sometime today.
i'll give it a shot and let you know,

to get the tensioner to work tho i've had to shorten the chain by a link, so if the chain stretches a bit after some use i'll probably have the same issue again with the chain getting stuck between the sprocket and engine. will see what i can figure out and will post back here!
 

Deeman69

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I've been using the same spring-tensioner, you're trying to make work, for over a year without any issues. When first installing it I did have a few challenges that I had to work through. First was the mounting position of my engine. As mentioned before, I did indeed need to reposition it to get a better angle on the chain. I also needed to use a "half-link" in my chain to get a better length. Finally, you'll notice there are many holes both on the arm and the case cover so you can test fit the spring to get the optimal arm angle and spring tension.
Nothing fits outta the box! LOL.
 

Freddy Snottgrass

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Never run a tensioner on the top or drive side of the chain... The bottom slack side or return is where it needs to be... The angle and setup makes the difference...
That's what I thought. The engine pulling the top chain has to put a lot of pressure on the tensioner placed like that. Like all the power of the engine would be on it before it got to your rear sprocket... it would probably leech power from your rear wheel as well.
 

Mossy

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That's what I thought. The engine pulling the top chain has to put a lot of pressure on the tensioner placed like that. Like all the power of the engine would be on it before it got to your rear sprocket... it would probably leech power from your rear wheel as well.
Grandpa isn't going to be flat out riding it... To the mailbox and back would work for him
 

Mossy

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On a snowmobile they have a tensioner on both sides for decellaration something like this would be great on our motors to use the engine as a brake...
 

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Freddy Snottgrass

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On your rear engine mount, there is a block that slides on and off the studs. Put washers behind that block, between it and the engine. It will pull your engine forward and also a bit higher on the V of the frame. I saw a video on this long ago, I will try to find it sometime today.

I am still looking for that video about chain adjustment through the rear engine mount. Save me the trouble and lemme know if you understand what I am trying to describe.

It would be pretty cool to have a rear engine mount that adjusted in an easy way so you can tension your chain... just an idea you fabricators
 
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