chain tensioner - chinesium design, any fix?

Datboi

Member
Local time
12:15 PM
Joined
Nov 12, 2020
Messages
72
i bought this spring-loaded chain tensioner hoping it would make the chain tension more constant as chains have tight spots and it annoyed me.


however, this thing is a piece of junk. whenever you try to pedal/start the engine, there isn't enough tension on the upper part of the chain so the chain gets stuck in between the sprocket and sprocket housing needing to take the sprocket cover off and unjam the chain.


i'm trying to thing if there is a way to fix this idiotic design, first of all the mounting spot is the first thing i would change - the lower part of the chain is practically touching the upper part and if the chain streaches a bit, which it will, they will rub against each other. i tried shortening a link, but it makes the chain too short to connect.

now, i wanna leave it to the experts, is it possible to make something out of this? i have a feeling the spring is too weak no matter where you place it to put enough force to tension the upper part too.

if y'all have some idea throw them at me, otherwise i guess the only thing to do this is to turn it into a chain tensioner like the original (non spring loaded.)

the pictures are from the internet as i already took the damn thing off as it kept jamming my chai
 

Attachments

  • 2022-04-24 20_37_08-Dropship Metal Spring Loaded Chain Tensioner wheel for 49cc 66cc 80cc Engi...png
    2022-04-24 20_37_08-Dropship Metal Spring Loaded Chain Tensioner wheel for 49cc 66cc 80cc Engi...png
    356.6 KB · Views: 160
  • 2022-04-24 20_37_20-U5de4bf1e47384d2eb23160089c0bd656n.jpg (360×720).png
    2022-04-24 20_37_20-U5de4bf1e47384d2eb23160089c0bd656n.jpg (360×720).png
    741.4 KB · Views: 162
i'm trying to thing if there is a way to fix this idiotic design, first of all the mounting spot is the first thing i would change - the lower part of the chain is practically touching the upper part and if the chain streaches a bit, which it will, they will rub against each other. i tried shortening a link, but it makes the chain too short to connect.
The real problem here is you have got too much chain for the tensioner to handle...Shorten the chain a little with a heavy duty chain break tool and then you will find that the tensioner will actually work as intended.

and even if i was able to make it shorter, doubt that would fix the issue. the spring is just too weak and it extends all the way when you turn the wheel.
 
i tried shortening a link, but it makes the chain too short to connect.
the sprocket and sprocket housing needing to take the sprocket cover off and unjam the chain.
If this were the case, you would not be having a chain jam problem...take a link or two out and then use a different mounting hole to accomodate the chain roller on the tensioner, it has a total of four positions to use.
 
If this were the case, you would not be having a chain jam problem...take a link or two out and then use a different mounting hole to accomodate the chain roller on the tensioner, it has a total of four positions to use.
i tried that like i said. the chain becomes too short to be assembled, so i had to put the link back in.

if you look up the reviews on this thing many people have the same issue... now if my chain was stretched out a bit more, then i could take a link off, but it hasn't worn to that point yet....
 
i was thinking, what about installing the original chain tensioner , get it to take some slack out but not all of it, and then add this?

that way the spring will compensate for the spots where the chain gets loose due to tight spots?

but tbh at that point i'd have to buy a new one so might as well just turn this into the original one with some drilling etc.
 
If this were the case, you would not be having a chain jam problem...take a link or two out and then use a different mounting hole to accomodate the chain roller on the tensioner, it has a total of four positions to use.
just went ahead and undid the chain again because you made me question if i checked properly, well, i did

as you can see removing a link makes it impossible to assemble the chain:
 

Attachments

  • photo_2022-04-24_21-22-42.jpg
    photo_2022-04-24_21-22-42.jpg
    71.8 KB · Views: 140
Try a stronger spring... A tensioner close to the rear sprocket is going to be a better option... The 4 bolt type with grade 8 bolts... A bearing type wheel...
 
and even if i was able to make it shorter, doubt that would fix the issue. the spring is just too weak and it extends all the way when you turn the wheel.
I have that spring tensioner. I got it at first because I was worried about the one that comes with the kit falling into my tire. The tensioner does not do a good job unless you got the chain pretty exact. I still use it as a secondary tensioner.

You can also adjust your engine mounting position, placing washers between the rear mount block and the engine case. That will bring your engine forward (compare to pulling the tire back 1/4"), and probably higher, giving that spring tensioner a better angle to work with.

After experience, the kit tensioner is fine and I no longer have a fear of it causing my demise.
 
just went ahead and undid the chain again because you made me question if i checked properly, well, i did

as you can see removing a link makes it impossible to assemble the chain:
A trick I learned after many chain fights: Install the master link with the chain ends on the rear sprocket. The sprocket teeth do all the alignment and holding in place work for you.
 
Back
Top