Chain Tensioner Chain Tensioner

[Duhawki]

Who makes the best, strongest, most solid chain tensioner?
Regards,
Duhawki

 

[mralaska]

In my (not always regarded so highly) opinion, the best, strongest, and most solid chain tensioner solution is to get rid of the tensioner:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=154751&postcount=14

 

[jmccrury]

I agree with mralaska. I see no need for the tensioner unless you are wanting to install the chain guard and have it cover all of the chain. I accidentally got rid of mine because I removed too many links from the chain, but it was one the best things I did to my bike too. I like the shim idea, but if your rear wheel can be adjusted, you can also just remove links from the chain and move the rear wheel to the appropriate position.

mralaska - I thought it was funny that you have the 50cc slant head on a $5 yard sale bike because I also have a 50cc slant head on a $6 Good Will mtn bike.

 

[iron_monkey]

I agree with mralaska. I see no need for the tensioner

You need it so that the chain will not jam in the engine at high speed, which is a very dangerous situation.
This is unless you are lucky enough that when you shortened the chain to the maximum allowable, it is adequately tight already and the chain wont stretch from then on (unlikely).
Mine did, alot. It stretched enough to pose a danger, but not enough for me to be able to shorten one more link. Hence the need for tensioner.

 

[mralaska]

You need it so that the chain will not jam in the engine at high speed, which is a very dangerous situation.
This is unless you are lucky enough that when you shortened the chain to the maximum allowable, it is adequately tight already and the chain wont stretch from then on (unlikely).
Mine did, alot. It stretched enough to pose a danger, but not enough for me to be able to shorten one more link. Hence the need for tensioner.

Removing one link of chain shortens it by one inch. One inch of slack in the chain can be fully absorbed by 1/2 inch of adjustment because every inch you move the tire from the engine is twice that on the chain. A total of 3/8 inch adjustment is all you will ever need to keep a chain properly adjusted. Some bicycles, as noted above, are able to adjust enough by moving the tire. I found it easier to move the engine away from the tire with shims because the tire kept going crooked when I tried to adjust it at the tire.

The tensioners are a simple concept out of the box and I was even planning on adding a spring loaded tensioner to my bike to take up for chain 'stretch'. However, since adding the shims the chain has not stretched. I made three shims but it was too tight so I only put in two, the bike still will not take that third shim. I went through the first tank of gas with a tensioner, three tanks since then with the shims. When I had the tensioner it was a pain to keep in place and everything had to be perfect or the chain would throw. Since adding the shims the chain runs as smooth as a motorcycle and the chain has not thrown once. I live on the side of a mountain so it gets its share of both stress and speed.

The tensioners, especially the improved ones, might be desireable for some applications but in no way, shape, or form can I imagine a 'need' for them.

 

[MotorMac]

This forum is terrific,I took my tensioner off completly and removed 2 links from the chain pulled the wheel back and now its tight and quieter too!! thanks guys for your experienced advice! MAC

 

[s_beaudry]

I have retighened the tensioner 5 or 6 times already, and have also removed one link from the chain as well.

Just went for a 27 miles ride with her and the chain is still pretty tight on there.

Not sure if I would run without a tensioner or not, seems kind of risky without one.

 

[Maxx Ported]

I never use a tensioner again, I shim the engine forward... If you really want to use one, I found it safer to move it forward. so it CAN't twist into the spokes..pics should explain

 

[spyke hyzer]

I've been running my MB without a tensioner from the start. I upgraded to a #41 chain and was able to get a half link for it. I am able to adjust the tension on the chain by adjusting the engine in the frame, I have a Trek mtb and had to fabricate my motormounts from steel plate and muffler clamps. I have about 200 miles with no chain issues and haven't noticed any chain stretch.

 

[s_beaudry]

I am starting to think that replacing the chain with a good quality #41 would be the first major upgrade that one should do during assembly!