Chainring Rubbing Frame

[DieselTech]

Wow the cup on the chainring side is messed up. I can feel small burrs all the way around and there's multiple defects that make it not concentric. How do I go about taking it out so I can replace it?
View attachment 161670

Yeah Yeti you got the good out of them, them should of been changed long ago. When you got everything ready to replace bearings & cups, set your bearing preload/ inner race nut, tighten them by hand & just snug it up so your pedals & crank has slight resistance when turning by hand.

 

[YetiWoodz]

Yeah Yeti you got the good out of them, them should of been changed long ago. When you got everything ready to replace bearings & cups, set your bearing preload/ inner race nut, tighten them by hand & just snug it up so your pedals & crank has slight resistance when turning by hand.

Yeah I found out it was bad when I dipped my finger and grease and started greasing the cup and I'm like this doesn't feel right lol. Thanks man

 

[Karl Snarl]

How tight should I tighten the outer nut that holds everything in place? Last time I tighten the hell out of it. I wonder if that could've affected the bearings.

Tight enough that it doesn't wobble, but no so tight it drags when you rotate. The lock ring holds it all in place, that's where it gets tightened with some ft/lbs. Just watch it to make sure you aren't tightening the cones when locking it all down.

 

[Wrench]

How tight should I tighten the outer nut that holds everything in place? Last time I tighten the hell out of it. I wonder if that could've affected the bearings.

Tightening the hell out of it is why the bearings failed and the cups got damaged
Tighten it only enough so there is no wobble and the crank spins easily and freely
Don't forget to grease the bearings

 

[YetiWoodz]

Fixed it! Yay!

Yeah since it must've been the bearings I did not need to shim it. There's a cone nut for the bearing on the opposite side. It has 2 flat head slots opposite each other looks like for hammering to spin it. I tightened it by hand then gave it like 4 light taps with a hammer. Is that probably good? It spins freely, no wobble, and I don't hear rubbing/crushing sounds lol.

 

[DieselTech]

Should be go to go YetiWoodz. Might have to re-adjust as bearings seat/wear in.

 

[Karl Snarl]

Fixed it! Yay!
View attachment 161970
Yeah since it must've been the bearings I did not need to shim it. There's a cone nut for the bearing on the opposite side. It has 2 flat head slots opposite each other looks like for hammering to spin it. I tightened it by hand then gave it like 4 light taps with a hammer. Is that probably good? It spins freely, no wobble, and I don't hear rubbing/crushing sounds lol.

A zip of teflon tape around the threads of the locks will keep them from backing off. Or if you wanna get even crazier, squeeze the threads with a pair of pliers lightly deforming them. It will prevent back off, they do it on my front axles halves on my 4x4 truck. If it will hold my tires on, it will hold the crank lock nuts still. lol

 

[Chainlube]

A zip of teflon tape around the threads of the locks will keep them from backing off. Or if you wanna get even crazier, squeeze the threads with a pair of pliers lightly deforming them. It will prevent back off, they do it on my front axles halves on my 4x4 truck. If it will hold my tires on, it will hold the crank lock nuts still. lol

Doesn't anybody use blue thread locker anymore?

 

[Karl Snarl]

Doesn't anybody use blue thread locker anymore?

I'd have to walk over and grab it off the shelf. I'm comfy sitting and the teflon tape is right there. lol

 

[DieselTech]

Doesn't anybody use blue thread locker anymore?

I do! I do! Lol, why not some green loctite?