Chainsaws,weedwhackers,snow blowers...oh my!

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Well, I mounted a piece of tubing on the outer bell cover of a centrifugal clutch once, kind of the hard way. No welder, no power tools at all, and the ID of the tube was about 1/16" smaller than the OD of the bell of the clutch.

So, I pulled the bell off, and went to the supermarket and bought 2 lbs of dry ice, which I put in my portable cooler with the bell buried in it. While that was cooling down, I heated the tube until it was almost glowing with a propane torch, then (using vice grips and a mallet). I seated the bell inside the expanded tube...

When everything had reached the same temperature, there was no moving that tube. Period, full stop. Clutch still worked fine, and the angled slots I'd cut in the other end of the tube worked fine to drive the water pump I'd made it for.
 
ok ! srdavos chainsaw bike needed a 25:1 ratio to start from a stand still and is a 42cc engine
1: if i had an 80cc engine would i still need a 25:1 ratio for the same take off power ?

2:if i used a trike as a truck to carry me 250lbs and say 120lbs of stuff
how would that effect the gearing id need

thanks
mike
 
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i have a recumbent that i built. me and the bike weigh out to around 225lbs. i want the motor for hil climbing and flat land running. what is the best gear ratio for a 35cc to a 50cc motor?
 
Stumped on Wacker

Well I have been looking here for quite some time getting ideas for my project and not i am finally stumped. I have a 25cc craftsman weed wacker engine (no clutch) and I am trying to figure out how to adapt a friction drive to it, the only way to connect to the drive shaft is the square insert. I was wondering if there was anyone who could put in their two cents for ideas on how to adapt a friction drive to that without welding the drive directly onto the drive shaft (so i can change pegs, polyurethane wheels, wood wheels, etc...)?

I know people have had this problem so i was wondering on getting some tips on home to adapt the wacker to be a friction drive and what others have done

(Other than welding, have thought of using the cable from the drive part of the wacker, tapping the square insert so that i can put a screw right into the drive???)
 

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Well I have been looking here for quite some time getting ideas for my project and not i am finally stumped. I have a 25cc craftsman weed wacker engine (no clutch) and I am trying to figure out how to adapt a friction drive to it, the only way to connect to the drive shaft is the square insert. I was wondering if there was anyone who could put in their two cents for ideas on how to adapt a friction drive to that without welding the drive directly onto the drive shaft (so i can change pegs, polyurethane wheels, wood wheels, etc...)?

I know people have had this problem so i was wondering on getting some tips on home to adapt the wacker to be a friction drive and what others have done

(Other than welding, have thought of using the cable from the drive part of the wacker, tapping the square insert so that i can put a screw right into the drive???)

Underneath that case there is a centrifugal clutch. Sometimes they unbolt and sometimes guys open them up and cut them off.

The 25cc engines usually use the smaller 54mm clutch drum.
 
Pic of my contraption

Just took some pics of my first project (built it last winter). Would rather be riding it today instead of just photographing it; northern Illinois weather sucks. I just posted this at the schwinn forum, and thought I would share it here.

I went with the friction drive. It's simple, light, inconspicuous, and completely disengages with the flip of a lever. Tire wear is not an issue at all anymore. I rode almost all of last year on one rear tire. That's about the same wear I got without a motor. My friction drive wheel (scrubber) is made from a hockey puck and steel spacer from Lowes. The "wet weather" scrubber in the photo is made from skateboard wheel with abrasive grit glued to it. Springs pull the unit down onto the tire. It'll bump start at 5mph, no problem. The throttle lever is an old brake lever. I added some extra homemade cable bosses to the frame so the cable runs nice and neat. It's all homemade with hand tools, a bench drill press and disk sander.

It rides like a Schwinn 10-speed, which I like. I don't go trailblazing with it; mostly ride the country roads within 30 miles or so from home. About 200 mpg - 25 mph top speed. A good pedaling pace in 10th gear... that's about the top speed and I don't want to go any faster!

Paid $10 for the 25cc Homelite leaf blower at a garage sale. Got the '73 Continental and a chromoly Univega at a yard sale, $20 for the pair.
 

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Just took some pics of my first project (built it last winter). Would rather be riding it today instead of just photographing it; northern Illinois weather sucks. I just posted this at the schwinn forum, and thought I would share it here.

That's very clever little setup you've done, I like it, simple and clean.

Can't see but is there a bearing on the outboard sid of the drive spindle?
Also, spend another minute or two if ya would telling more how you did the grit thing, and what you used......'preciate it.
 
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