Charge a sla battery with a stator?

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by Frankenstein, Jun 29, 2016.

  1. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    So I have a good level of understanding of electronics, my current system is a 18 volt drill battery and sacrificed drill, a 12v regulator, motorcycle led turn signal relay, ,all wrapped up in a harbor freight ammo can. I use led strip lights, works nicely.

    Anyway, there are these gy6 motor things, for go karts or whatever, they have a stator in them to generate power, that gets directed towards the regulator/rectifier and distributed to the battery and other electrical system bells and whistles. Here's the eBay item number for this part 291155838768.

    Now I don't know too much about this, but I know it can generate enough juice to charge a 12v sealed lead acid battery whilst powering some kinda headlamp and not starving it's cdi of the needed power to actually keep the machine running.

    Looks like the inside of it has a keyed shaft, I don't know if it's the same 5/8th found in a shift kit, but if it is I do think I have room in my setup to simply slip it in and let it spin while the motor's engaged to the wheels.

    Does anyone have knowledge about how these stators work? Anyone think it wouldn't work in theory? My current system works rather nicely, but this would be nice since I don't have to remove a battery and charge it, and no more batteries dying out on the road leaving me without my turn signals.

    Any input is highly desired, thanks.

  2. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    If I used a gy6 4stroke stator, basically an alternator/generator, and spun it with my engine, would it be able to charge a battery?

    Any ideas of wattage? I'm trying Google with no promising hits...
  3. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    Advantages over my old system: don't need to take a battery out to charge, making it even more standalone (currently that's watts the only thing needed to power the the system, 2 batteries, swap a charged one for an empty one.)
    Wouldn't it be nice to charge forever without having to forget about the battery being almost dead, then die leaving you at an intersection where 5 roads meet with no signals, or reliable headlight in the middle of the dark with cars at each road making turns and almost hitting you.

    Yeah that sucks. It's annoying in general not being able to use a turn signal and a headlamp that can be blinked. You have to take hands off the bars to signal your intentions.

    The other advantage: if it fails to power a battery, like the stator burns out, it can be bypassed electrically. I have a small 12 volt li-ion battery. It's got some kinda amperage I don't believe is real, but it seems to do a good job at powering certain 12 volt devices with remarkable longevity. If the amperage is a truth, then it's effectively the same as my ni-cad setup. Only thing I noticed is the li ion battery didn't work reliably in the winter being super cold.

    Anyway, the system could be bypassed, with that plug in li ion battery, and use that battery conservatively untill a fix can be made, and it would power my lights generally as long.

    Very useful at night if going slow on faster trafficked road, also can make 4 way signals, if I use a double pole double throw switch, like I do for my kill/light power switch, I can use the "hazard" light indicatedor in my speedometer to let me know of my hazards are on. You can tell for certain at night vs day, so an indicator would be useful.

    Anyways, just my thoughts, if you'd like a list of what I did to make a turn signal and light system, just ask, maybe I'd post pictures sometime if really wanted.
  4. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

  5. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

  6. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    I'll side with not doing it, it needs to rotate at engine rpm speeds to work nicely, the jackshaft doesn't spin fast enough to do the job proper, no real way to hook up directly to the crankshaft arms, and running against the wheel with a friction drive isn't a good setup either...
  7. JGH122

    JGH122 Member

  8. danlandberg

    danlandberg Member

    I spent $30.00+ shipping (35.00 total)
    After installing the mini gen I noticed a loss in power (HP). I don't have anything connected up to it yet. I built a reg/rectifier to charge Li-ion (8.4v) battery pack.
    Wondering when everything is hooked up, will I loose any more HP while charging the batteries.
    Doesn't have enough HP for my taste as it is.
    After all lights are in place (turn signals, brake, tail, head lamp + a horn). It will be time for engine performance mods.
  9. jaguar

    jaguar Well-Known Member

    it is an independent system that in no way can affect your engines power output.
  10. danlandberg

    danlandberg Member

    The drag of the second coil (mini-mag) is causing the noticeable decrease in power to the ground.
  11. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    It's not bad enough I'd complain about, drag is only bad if you want to go fast, motor bikes only get so much speed anyways, enjoy it. And not sure where you're getting drag or slower speed from, the mini mag doesn't take a thing from the normal running engine. It's stand alone, perhaps your magneto arms got misaligned.

    Anywho, the point was to generate enough power to Power something with more oomph than say 5 watts at 12 volts, that's not even half an amp hour, and that's when it's running high speed.
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2016
  12. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    Oh, and I'm going to change to a li ion battery with Nearly 10 amps of juice, I'll keep the original system, but toss in a plug with a built in interrupter to reroute power draw depending on if the li ion batt is plugged in.

    Good because of the 10 watt led headlamp I'll install, and the batt can even charge my phone
  13. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Well duh, if you are using a gas engines power to create electric power you have an equal amount of power loss to the wheel.
    The more you draw, the less you get to the back wheel.

    Power, no matter what form it is in, isn't free.
    You can swap it's form, but there are always losses somewhere.

    I had high hopes for the Jlzeda actual 70cc 2-stroke with full 12V electric system...
    The extra 4cc's was to cope for the drag of a 12V generator to power an electric start and lights with a 12V SLA battery.


    It worked great for about a month.
    Pull start or electric start.
    Now neither work.


    At any rate, no power is free, except maybe regenerating braking.
  14. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    I was interested in that engine system, mainly the alternator and charging system, I'll let my friend who's got his on back order from bike berry that it will be about a month before he has to pedal start it :)

    Not like I have a problem with drag, of course energy has to be lost in the system somewhere to charge a battery, nature of the universe dude.

    The issue is finding a system to charge a battery without having to plug something in to something else, much like your car maintains its battery for you for the most part. The only options I have either suck because they are unreliable or don't generate enough power, or they have no solid way of being put in the system without said system destroying it because of the nature of bikes and exposure. And the last options are prohibitively expensive for a cheap bastardo who's got more important things to maintain like kids, wifes, and beers.

    And weighing my current system, against the time needed to implement a new one, well I'll just stick to the old system with a solid improvement of an additional battery. It just becomes close enough to being maintenance freeish for my lackluster standards.
  15. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    I also need to ask, what's up with that oil bath clutch, does that mean for one you don't have a clutch cable or lever, and how the hell do you maintain that thing, if it leaks oil are you effed over? If the crankcase seal fails and it eats oil are you effed over? Do you think converting to a manual clutch is possible?

    Sorry but you're like one of the only people with hands on experience with this new toy, and I'm not sure how much I want it or not yet.
  16. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Looks like I am getting my starting systems replaced ;-}
    Hello Vale,
    I have informed our partner---Rob in USA.
    He will contact you soon to help you solve this problems.

    Please tell the problems of bike engine to Rob. Sure,he will help you.
    We keep in touch. Any questions please feel free to contact me.

    Best regards & Akili Cui

    Yea, they contacted me to test and review their engine kit.
    Long story but I let them talk me into it for a reduced cost ;-}

    It is a centrifugal automatic clutch in a small oil bath, no lever, but no pedal start hence why 2 starting systems.
    That's a super double bonus man!
    Why in the world would you want to defeat it and add a manual clutch lever to your handlebars?

    I love automatic clutches and this was a breeze to operate.
    Mount bike, push start button, turn throttle to go.

    Don't get me wrong, I like the engine, and you can feel that 4cc larger size, much like difference between an HS 142 49cc 4-stroke and a HS 144 53cc engine.

    And it has dual front and rear engine mounts to keep it in place.
    Darn nice system, smooth power and easy to operate if you can start the thing.

    If they fix the starter issues this will make a fine 2-stroke with on-board 12V.
    Best I've seen anyway.

    Of course the easiest way to get 12V is by starting with an e-bike like this 48V ~1KW trike I'm building now...


    But it's not 'self sustaining' power, you have to charge the 48V, but taping that is easy with a DC-DC converter to lower some working voltage to 12V and like 30A or something, suffice it to say more than you'll ever draw unless you literally want to light your bike up like a Christmas display ;-}
  17. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the info, how do you start it if both pull and electric failed?

    On another note, the superwattastic e-bike battery would work, it's just I don't want to spring 300 bucks on a battery/regulator setup. Hence the cheap half of my cheap bastardo duo.

    Maybe let me talk you into selling your battery and regulator at a discounted price perhaps yes?
  18. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Haven't you been following along?
    You can't start it.

    I don't have any spare E-parts to sell at any price, this is a pre-paid customer build as most are.
    As for charity, I do that with the locals to the tune of ~$2500 a year in free or low cost MB repairs and parts for the less fortunate in my local Sunnyslope community, that's where it helps the most and all I can do bud, I don't make sh*t as it is, but I sure have fun and stay outta mischief which makes my wife happy ;-}
    Frankfort MB's likes this.
  19. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    The discounted price comment was mostly a joke reference about your SHADY CHINESE BUSINESS PRACTICES!! OK maybe not shady but there were definitely Asians involved I know it for a fact.

    I'm thinking about trying out a sla battery anyways, I have a nifty idea to charge the battery in an easy fashion, even though my current system is also easy and reliable. Only thing is I have a 10 watt led lamp, I want to make it into my headlight for dark roads but 10 watts across 12 volts is approaching .9 ah, problem one is apparently the battery I ordered shouldn't be run past half an amp, and my current battery pack will power that lamp alone for less than 2 hours, and that's before figuring for the running lights and turn signals, possible brake light upgrade...

    So a sla might be the best option also my power regulator will keep a steady 12 volts, even when the voltage of the battery gets lower, if it gets lower.

    I would used a trickle charger maintainer dofletchy to keep the battery up, and I can simply put a female electrical receptacle (standard 110 volt type) as the way for the battery to make connection with the charger, it's a safe, resilient, and smart design for a plug that prevents accidental shorts from tools or other things, and is easy to use once my charger is modified.
  20. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    I suggest you don't get fixated on a participial voltage if you are going to remote charge it.
    Get lights that all use the same voltage and put in a battery of that voltage.
    Frankenstein likes this.