Clutch Cheap and best HS142F Clutch & Bell?

greenjon

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I've heard that the clutch in the 49cc HS142F 4-stroke kits may not be sized properly to the bell. I've heard that two solutions are to buy a heavy duty clutch with larger springs, or to buy a bell that is ~.250" smaller.

Can anyone provide links to the cheapest and best solutions? I'm aware of the $44 clutch from Staton-inc, but if there is a solution that is cheaper than that would be preferred.
 
this is of my opinion after like a billion broken springs. when my default clutch bell broke and i had an extra pocket bike bell, which from visual inspection seems about .2-.25 smaller than the default one. thus far i did not have a broken spring with the pocket bike bell when I know I should have many. also, pocket bikes use the same default clutch as the one in the motorbike kit, which is why in my opinion I think the motorbike kits have the wrong clutch bell. and, a smaller proper clutch bell means less stress on the springs and faster engagement, which is why I think the springs are okay now. this is just my opinion. as you may know, most hardcore 142F guys use the default clutch and the expensive Staton-inc clutch.
 
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you just need the clutch bell. though the clutch bell is hard to remove from the 142F HS transmissions so I wouldn't do it until you tested the default clutch. I would do this. Just use the default one for now and if you find that your springs are breaking too often then look at the premium big clutch from Staton or replacing the clutch bell with a pocket bike version.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-Bel...788875&hash=item25838e9029:g:JfsAAOSwWTRWw22U
 
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Thank you!
Is removing the bell and replacing the springs something that can be done in the field? Or does breaking the spring mean pushing the bike home?
 
replacing the springs is pretty simple to do. there are many YT videos showing how to do it. you only need a small screwdriver to do so (needs to fit under spring ends). the clutch bell is actually kinda difficult to remove depending on your reduction box. mine broke so I had to remove it and it isn't something you want to do on the street. replacing the clutch springs is simply removing the reduction box and using a screwdriver removing the broken springs and putting on the new ones.

ALSO, this is pretty important, the torque specs on the reduction box/transmission is hand tight. you want to go light on it when you put it on and err on the side of caution. the thread holes are so weak.
 
I just watched some YT videos and now it makes sense. I thought that the bell had to be removed to replace the springs but now I get it.
I appreciate the tip about the torque specs! I do tend to get ham fisted!
 
My staton-inc clutch is on its second engine (upgraded to the 144f). No signs of wear and not a single issue in over 2 years. My buddy is on his 4th stock clutch in 10 months. Pretty sure mine paid for itself already. It's a daily driver in mountain foothills.
 
My staton-inc clutch is on its second engine (upgraded to the 144f). No signs of wear and not a single issue in over 2 years. My buddy is on his 4th stock clutch in 10 months. Pretty sure mine paid for itself already. It's a daily driver in mountain foothills.

yeah, dan. im on the original clutch but with the smaller pocket bike clutch bell. no issues also in 6 months or so. and my gear reduction box has no free wheel so there is added stress to the clutch and bell but still its fine. i really believe the mb vendors give us the wrong size bell.
 
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