Cheapest "no engine" mounting kit?

markjs

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AFAIK, CMB offers the best deal here, at $43.99, because I don't find this on any of the major sites and doing a search on both Amazon and Ebay both, netted me one $75 result? The one Amazon set at $70+ looks cheap and crappy where I know the CMB stuff is OK generally...

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God the search function on most websites today is still so dumb! Can't get the specific results you want without a TON of sifting through useless crap you don't!

Just thought I'd post here in case anyone knows where to undercut $40 for one, even a low quality one would prolly be fine for a 50cc?

That's my situation, have a 48/9cc and no kit.
 
Sounds like you have a 49cc four stroke engine. Look on the second page in our FOR SALE forum. I have a drive sproket and motor mount listed. All the other pieces you might need can be purchased pretty cheap on Amazon.
 
Well I just ordered a kit from CMB. I still have to get small 6mm mounting studs for this because the CMB stuff is 8MM and not sure if that comes with a "no engine" kit. I'm gonna get the black hardened studs. They cost like over a buck or two each so it won't be super cheap.

The guy is actually delivering my Granite Peak bike tomorrow, so I don't even have to ride a bus to get it. Means I'm paying the full $70 asking price, but it's an old man and a garaged bike, so it's in great shape, with some extras, and is still a pretty good value.

Crazy that the gift of a "free" engine from cloakedvillian, ends up costing me over $100 but then I will have a 2nd bike and fun project. Originally it was to use if I couldn't fix my PK80, but I ended up fixing it and I'll be damned if I don't think it's now running stronger than ever.

I am planning to swap it's 41 tooth sprocket for a 44, because the fastest speed limit road I am ever on is 30MPH, and the way it pulls hills slow and steady now, I bet it will feel like a difference scooting up after the swap. I expect I may get 20mph on the main hill I am always going up (long and steady but not super steep).

Pretty sure I will actually end up changing the 66cc motor over to the Roadmaster and using the 50cc on the rigid frame Peugeot. I like the front shocks (even though I know they are not "good" shocks, and the cushy seat, plus it has a rack, which can double as sort of a rear fender,. I may just do the swap right off or I may try the 50cc on the GP first, have not decided.

Anyway it kinda rocks to have a new project. It's only my second engine and the kit should come fast, as I recall my original PK80 kit came in two days.
 
it would be super easy to drill and tap those 6mm holes to 8mm. A high speed steel metric tap and drill set isn't bad to have on hand and doesn't cost very much. The cast aluminum will be super easy to drill into. Could even do it with one of those hand crank drills.

Believe it or not NIMS wants apprentice machinists to start out with those hand tools. Outdated curriculum but still a good resource to learn conventional machining.
 
it would be super easy to drill and tap those 6mm holes to 8mm. A high speed steel metric tap and drill set isn't bad to have on hand and doesn't cost very much. The cast aluminum will be super easy to drill into. Could even do it with one of those hand crank drills.

Believe it or not NIMS wants apprentice machinists to start out with those hand tools. Outdated curriculum but still a good resource to learn conventional machining.
Well that could be a future thing. For now I'm tapped out on the project, and LA Hover Bikes says that the hardened black studs are strong enough (and he was referring to a 66cc Seutek), and that the cheap Chinese studs are the problem. You've already replaced the head studs with (I assume) USA bought bolts, so six total studs, where I have a good source of the black hardened type, and a few odd nuts and washers should be enough for now.

I will eventually get all that stuff, but it'll be little by slow. I kinda have a "living room shop" since I can pull my bike in the patio slider door and work on it in the otherwise unused living room. I watch movies there, but the only other purpose is where the cats eat.
 
Every one like to use the hardened studs and bolts. Great, but not necessary, you are threading into aluminum, you don't need a grade twelve bolt.
Grade eight is more than enough.
 
I can already see from other builds I need an alternative carb mounting to fit the frame. I got an offset. I wanted a CNC but AFAIK from what I can see then I would need another carb other than the NT because the bowl would get in the way of the clutch cable mount.

IDK if this is a good solution but at least it will get me on the road without running the carb at an un-level angle....

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(I know to check it for air leaks on the welds. I guess JB weld may be needed too if there's leaks.)
 
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