Chinese 2 stroke- Wiring How To's (basic and advanced)

G

gone_fishin

Guest
blue/green to blue/green (pos)

black to black (neg)

white capped off, or used for single 6V/3W bulb (pos)

insulate the connections from ground & each other

splice killswitch into blue/green connection EDIT:see link in post #5
(with a 2-wire switch, one wire into blue/green splice, other side to ground/frame)

kindly post this link in reply to any questions about basic wiring.
 

fastboy9

Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2008
Messages
584
I also have 2 wires coming from my killswitch. what do I do with them? I already have black to black and blue to blue. any advice appreciated.

You want one wire jammed into your blue to blue connection, and the other clamped on to the frame to act as a ground. If your engine starts to run badly straight after then the kill switch is dodgy. Then in that case I would recommend installing a switch on the blue wire, no problems there!

Fastboy
 

fastboy9

Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2008
Messages
584
The thing that lets a lot of builds down is the dodgy job of wiring everything. If you want your bike to look professional then doing a few things can make your job look clean, and will also make it more reliable as you wont have wires all over the place loosely held together.

So to take power for a light bulb from the engine or not to is the question?

The answer is not to ! Why? Because by taking power from the engine
You are actually starving the engine of electricity needed to generate a spark.
It's as simple as that. Better to use an external power source for lights
like a rechargeable battery.

Moving on to good wiring practice. There are no definitive was to do it
but I thought id share some of my ideas with you.

6mm Heat shrink comes in many different colours and can be purchased off ebay
for next to nothing. You can give your wiring a neat finish by following the
steps below.

Before we get started you may want to take the white wire, fold it in half and insert
it into the sleeve. The white wire is used to add a 6v light bulb that is powered from the engine and it is not recomended that you use it, it is just much better to buy yourself an externally powered one.

Take one of the heat shrinks and cut it in half these will be used to cover the two connections of the CDI unit. The longer piece will be used to cover the base of the wiring coming from the engine for a nice and clean finish.

Connect the black wire of the kill switch into the blue or green wire of the engine, you can use some solder here if you like.

Connect the blue/green wire from the engine to the blue/green wire of the CDI unit and then connect the black wire of the engine to the black wire of the CDI unit. Now fix the red wire of the kill switch onto the frame by using the top bottle holder screw and the wiring is complete.

Also while your at it, why not cable tie your wires to the frame. Another good thing to do is seal the sleeve coming out from the bottom of the engine, I used epoxy resin on mine, but a good dollop of vaseline would do the job.

It would be a good idea to put the CDI inside some sort of small plastic bag to protect it from water too.

The pictures show how the kill switch should be wired up. Alternatively you could make yourself a much more efficient kill switch by putting a switch on the blue wire; this thread here goes into a lot of detail in to making one. It puts less strain on your magneto therefore making your parts more reliable.

Any body else have any good ideas to add to this?

Fastboy
 

Attachments

  • wiring.jpg
    wiring.jpg
    29.7 KB · Views: 11,538
  • wiring diag.jpg
    wiring diag.jpg
    16.7 KB · Views: 31,087
Last edited:

screaming emu

Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2008
Messages
37
wiring

Yeah I'd like to add that doing away with the electrical connectors that come stock with HT motors and changing them to spade connectors (from local auto shop) fit much tighter and are less likely to come undone. I've always wired black to black, blue to blue, white to one of the throttle wires and the other throttle wire to the drink bottle holder bolt to earth it. I have never had any electrical problems and have built and sold many bikes like this. This way saves piggy backing any wires.
 

nickk

New Member
Joined
May 23, 2008
Messages
19
wiring how to's

hi all
adam the paper works tells you that thats 7 volt output and that way that you got it would cause the engine to cut out or missfire
but you say that it works ok , very strange i solder all connections cut off the connectors (water can get in) and heat shrink the joins
what ever works hey
ta nickk
 
Last edited:
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
688
Yeah I'd like to add that doing away with the electrical connectors that come stock with HT motors and changing them to spade connectors (from local auto shop) fit much tighter and are less likely to come undone. I've always wired black to black, blue to blue, white to one of the throttle wires and the other throttle wire to the drink bottle holder bolt to earth it. I have never had any electrical problems and have built and sold many bikes like this. This way saves piggy backing any wires.

This is the way my instructions said to wire the kill switch, and with over a 1000 miles I have had no problems.........
 

Bryan Smith

Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2008
Messages
55
Mine is wired (from engine):
Black to black wire and grounded to frame. Blue to blue wire. White runs to kill switch and to 6v 4 amp headlamp. Other wire from kill switch to frame (ground) and also other side of headlamp to frame.

If you want more pep, leave out the headlamp or use low power LED's.
Best option is to use external power source for lights.

I used wire the kill switch to the high voltage blue wire, but it kept shocking me from time to time. The kill switch to white wire works very well.
 

WRENCHBENDER

New Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2010
Messages
7
What about charging

For instance, I have a brand new battery, wich i got from the Interstate battery guy that restocks our shop. I asked him to get me a battery for my bike. A 6 volt, small amp battery, that could be possible to use on my bike for reserve power or some other electrical use. But what about charging, could i over charge it, or do i need to build a small regulator. Mabay it wont even work at all. The Interstate battery guy gave me a 6 volt, 7 ah, sealed, A.G.M. (absorbed glass mat) battery. Looks like a tall, thin, pocket bike battery. Its like5 x 7 x 1 1/2. He gave it to me but said it would be like 20 bucks. Does any one have any info that they could shed. I havent even put the multi meter on my bike to see what the charastics of the voltage and amperage were at different r.p.m.s.
 

GearNut

Active Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2009
Messages
1,676
You will need a single diode rectifier/ regulator to produce clean enough current and prevent overcharging the battery. The white wire is good for 6 to 7 volts, 3 watts. calculated at 6.5 volts, that's .461 amps. A battery likes to be charged at 1/10 it's rated amperage.
for your battery that is 0.7 amps. It will take a long time before the battery gets overcharged, but safe is better that sorry.
 
Top