Chinese Quality Control Standards.

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by fetor56, Feb 29, 2008.

Tags: Add Tags
  1. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    We all complain about the lack of Chinese HT quality and consistancy in quality but nothing ever seems to get done about it.The same sub-standard engines and mounting kits are still out there and still failing.Sure their cheap but it comes to a point of diminishing returns when cheap only lasts a short time.
    Our sponsors do the best they can but their under pressure from other lower priced dealers to compete.I don't profess to know all the answers but i would like to hear other peoples opinions.....can anything be done or are we just stuck with it?
    My only solution was to spend more money and buy a 4-stroke "made in japan".If there was a 2-stroke HT made up to a standard and not down to a price i would have seriously concidered it.Please keep in mind i'm in Oz so freight costs also have to be factored in.
    To me it seems "brand name" manufacturers are scared to make engines in the HT configuration for fear of liability......sad cos they would be extremely popular.

  2. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    A standard quality upgrade kit as an option.
    To do this we all post what part, vote or acknowledge, make a list and then vote on the list.
    Present this to our suppliers who can purchase in bulk.
    For example, the bolts on the cover plates.
    I have replaced them with Allen key bolts, OK, I know they are Hi Tensile and technically not really needed there, but the point is, it's better than the screwdriver crapolar that seem to disintegrate once a screwdriver tries to undo or thighten them and for me it looks good.
    Others may have a differant opinion or technicality/idea. As long as it can be made into a kit form, it will work.

    Complaining won't get it fixed, so next option is to list all the things that may become the "Quality Upgrade Kit" as a extra cost/option.
    Then it becomes a standard.
    Hope that makes sense.

    I WAS going to post the bolt sizes I used from the receipt, but lost the reciept I bought the bolts from. So any of you who know the actual type, length etc for the sales dude at the counters,post away and we will add this to the upgrade parts list on this thread.
    It's trivial, but it's a once only thing and it's a standard we all can identify with later on.

    All the best

  3. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    this is an excellent idea !
    a list of hardware sizes to replace prior to first install :D
    perhaps if not a vendor, then a member could buy in bulk and spread the good stuff around (ala, how scottm rocked the t-shirt deal)
  4. BSA

    BSA Guest

    Cracking idea, I was too disappointed with the quality of some components. The major problem was the poor quality of nuts and bolts, that have began to wear out. A decent carburetor would be also good. Nylon collar locking nuts for the sprocket is an excellent upgrade. Infact nearly all of the nuts that aren't in contact with the engine heat should be nylon locking. Also the gas tank cover should be vent better as it always creates a vacuum in the tank.

    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 1, 2008
  5. Xtrm84

    Xtrm84 New Member

    Haha, I just went to HD with a bag full of bolts and nuts to try and find replacements but it took way too long to find the perfects sizes so if anyone DOES have these specs that would be great!
  6. eltatertoto

    eltatertoto Guest

    dude! this is like the best idea ever! lol, not to be over enthusiastic, but i really love the idea! id buy one
  7. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    OK, well, I will look again for those reciepts on the Allen Key bolts for the covers.
    But the way I did it, I put the new engine in a carry bag with a screwdriver and went the place where they only sell Nuts and Bolts.

    Then one by one the rep. sized them up and gave me the exact sizes.
    I do remember the computer print-out had the sizes and my place right now is a mess with spanners and stuff all over the place.

    The other thing I asked at some places is about the cables. What type ot steel cable does not stretch to replace the clutch cable ?
    I assume it's stainless steel cable ?
    I'll even make it up strand by strand using piano or geetar wire if I have to.
    But the cabling we get keeps stretching.

    Keep the list happening and sooner or later we get a picture of what is required.
    Last edited: Feb 29, 2008
  8. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    the clutch cable can be replaced with a common brake cable for a bike
  9. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    I have, it still stretched but settling in after about 5 re-adjustments.
  10. Improvements. MMMMMmmmmmmmm......

    I'd like a locking gas cap. Anyone know a solution?
    It would also be cool if someone came out with a head kit with some beef on the sidewalls and maybe bigger to like 125 cc and thicker head bolts or something yea.
    Oh and gears.
  11. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    I wonder if ThatsDax, or Chris Hill would consider selling an upgrade version of their motors? I would pay considerably more for an engine where I KNEW that the nuts, bolts, and studs had been replaced with quality parts. And I am in the market for a couple of them.
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 29, 2008
  12. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Stainless steel cable inserts are the best...u get them for $1.50 at the Port Market on Sundays.Buy the loose ones in a box of 100.

    Capitol shouldn't cost much more and would give great peace of mind.
  13. Alaskavan

    Alaskavan Guest

    Actually, it sounds like Chris Hill already does quite a bit in the direction of quality control. I think I'll buy one and see.
  14. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    Ok, the list so far.
    Cover Plates Bolts.
    5 @ Clutch Cover.
    4 @ Magneto Cover.
    3 @ Small Drive Sprocket Cover.
    2 @ Crankcase on Clutch side.
    2 @ Crankcase on Magneto side, at bottom of cylinder.
    If you are going to choose Allen key bolts and they got the knurl on the head of the bolt, I used the grinder or the wire brush and smoothed it out.
    I would not enlarge the holes in the engine covers, I'd rather make the bolts fit. That's my opinion, but probably a warranty issue if we mess with the engines bolt holes.
    If I have missed anything on this, copy and paste the list and fix the list, please.
    Rear Sprocket
    9 @ High Tensile Bolts.
    9 @ High Tensile Nuts
    9 @ Nylon Lock Nuts
    9 @ High Tensile washers ( large )
    18 @ High Tensile washers ( small )

    OK, I'll try to explain how they fit.

    Allen Key Bolt-small washer- to outer side of sprocket
    That way the head of the Allen Key bolt has a small washer on the sprocket.
    Inner side of sprocket;
    Rubber-Plate-Large Washer-Small washer-High Tensile Nut-Nylon Lock Nut.
    Better air filter or air filter element
    I personaly prefer this as a deluxe upgrade kit, a carby with a mixture screw.
    Name a carby or carbys to consider. It may be a personal choice, but for the general rider that wants no fuss, generalise a carby for the kit at least.
    Remeber, we only have to nut out this Quality Upgrade Kit once.
    Chain Tensioner
    Tuff call, we all have ideas on this one.
    High Tensile bolts,nuts and washers and spring washers for the 2 plates.

    The other day there was a bike a the pawnbrokers with these wide chain tensioner wheels with bearings on the pedal side.It had 2 of these wheels, one one the high side of the front sprocket and another on the lower side. Never seen this before but it was on a competition looking Mountain Bike. I will go back there and get some more details, but it looked like a factory standard item, therefore there has to be a replacement part for that particular bike. If it looks Ok and I can test it, then we see if it is a item to consider.
    Fetor, it's at Klemzig Cash Convertors or if anyone is close check out.


    ???leave it up to some of you guys to fine tune the list.

  15. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    I think he does better than most suppliers,but(correct me if i'm wrong Chris) his nuts/bolts/studs/etc are basically standard issue.IF i could afford his engine(plus freight being the killer) i would jump at the chance.His engine/good expansion chamber/descent carby(even a clone descent carby)/optional packet of nuts,bolts etc,and u would have an excellent setup......truly excellent. :cool:
  16. This is a list of everything I've done to my bike and works cool. There are many more ideas here but this list is what I have personally done myself.

    Change your spark plug wire to wire or copper core

    Make your own air cleaner(Haven't installed it yet. Pics soon)

    Homemade Chain Tensioner

    Easier clutch pull,longer clutch cable life

    O ring the carby(lots of different ways on this thread.)

    Muffler Mod

    Stop blowing up your magnetos

    Boost Bottle

    Cable operated choke no more reach around

    I also modified my kiddy trailer I found on Craigslist for a song so that the mount mounts on the right side of the bike instead of the left side. There's far more room on the right and now the happy time chain doesn't get in the way. Pics soon of that as well.

    I guess the trick with these Happy times is to make them less identical with each other and more PERSONALIZED. That is what joy is.
    Moop hit 1200 miles yesterday! I may throw it a party. He will be pleased.
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 1, 2008
  17. Torques

    Torques Guest

    What does "HT" stand for?
  18. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    HT stands for 'happy time'...the generic name we came up with for the chinese frame mount kits
  19. Torques

    Torques Guest

    Thanks AZ. Here is a picture of the chain tensioner I built. It works great.
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 2, 2008
  20. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    I finally found a petcock that's correctly made from a racing car speed shop.
    100 % brass, made on a lathe. They are catalouged and mass produced.

    The thread section that screws into the tank is tapered, so it tightens as it's screwed into the tank. The tap is either On or Off.

    Found this on a Google search, similar to what I'm using

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 2, 2008