Engine Trouble Chrome plating wearing off cylinder?

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TheBaldKiwi

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Today I removed my cylinder to do some port work and have found that most of the shiny chrome plating on the cylinder walls is gone? It feels smooth to the touch, but it doesn't look right to me. This engine has only been run a few times and it seemed to run fine. Had good compression and was not making any abnormal noises. If the chrome plating is wearing away, then why is the cross hatch still present? It doesnt make much sense to me that the cross hatch would be deeper than the chrome plating? I have included pictures of the cylinder. If anyone can inform me on what is going on I would be very grateful.
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Looks like normal polishing of the honed walls by the action of the piston and rings, these bores aren't exactly round and the areas you see shiny are high spots which get a little more vigorous polish. If you break through to the aluminum you will see a dull spot in the shine, don't see that in your pictures but they is a little glare in the pics.
 
That's nothing, take a look at my cylinder, I used it for like 2 months so far.
However it can still reach 60km/h (37mph)

A sleeved cylinder would be much better. A real nicasil covered cylinder would cost much more than these cylinders. Also if you'd like to tune your cylinder, the stock one is not for you, because you'll have to spend lots of time to port your cylinder like every month. I'm not really interested about this anymore I'll use this cylinder till it blows up. It's really loud, because the piston keeps shaking in the cylinder, but hey it's still powerful and fast. Just imagine if they'd be made with steel sleeved cylinder. Even the new cylinder has a large gap when I insert the piston, if you check any other cylinder, when you insert the piston without the rings it almost sticks to the cylinder wall. But this just shakes in it making it loud and weak. Not the mention the short stroke the crankshaft gives. The piston doesn't go up enough to give the best compression and doesn't go down enough to do a proper exhaust / fuel injection. And you can't raise the cylinder much to fix the exhaust problem, because you will open the intake port and you will have fuel wasted. The intake port must be in a lower position. A steel sleeve could fix that too, because you could almost redesign the whole timing of the cylinder and you just only make it once and the cylinder will last a few years. Not like these crappy nicasil ones. They aren't for tuning. So yeah, that's normal for these eninges that you have a cylinder wall like that.
 
Jozsef That is a load of crap for the most part. Once you do your port work you do not need to repeat it. It stays for the life of your cylinder. You can easily get 3000 miles out of a cylinder with a couple of ring jobs. If yours looks like this after 2 months you are either doing something wrong or just got a crappy cylinder.
The stroke on these engines are more than sufficient to provide adequate fuel, the port timing is easily corrected, and the stroke is capable of providing more compression than is necessary. The pistons for the most part are sized within tolerance. Were they sized as you suggest they would sieze from expansion. About all you said that was real was the nikasil and the steel sleeve. If your going to make statements you should at least try to make correct ones.
 
That's nothing, take a look at my cylinder, I used it for like 2 months so far.
However it can still reach 60km/h (37mph)

A sleeved cylinder would be much better. A real nicasil covered cylinder would cost much more than these cylinders. Also if you'd like to tune your cylinder, the stock one is not for you, because you'll have to spend lots of time to port your cylinder like every month. I'm not really interested about this anymore I'll use this cylinder till it blows up. It's really loud, because the piston keeps shaking in the cylinder, but hey it's still powerful and fast. Just imagine if they'd be made with steel sleeved cylinder. Even the new cylinder has a large gap when I insert the piston, if you check any other cylinder, when you insert the piston without the rings it almost sticks to the cylinder wall. But this just shakes in it making it loud and weak. Not the mention the short stroke the crankshaft gives. The piston doesn't go up enough to give the best compression and doesn't go down enough to do a proper exhaust / fuel injection. And you can't raise the cylinder much to fix the exhaust problem, because you will open the intake port and you will have fuel wasted. The intake port must be in a lower position. A steel sleeve could fix that too, because you could almost redesign the whole timing of the cylinder and you just only make it once and the cylinder will last a few years. Not like these crappy nicasil ones. They aren't for tuning. So yeah, that's normal for these eninges that you have a cylinder wall like that.
You have alot to learn yet if that's what you think,There are steel sleaved cylinders available in many sizes now and the stock ones are just chrome plated not nikasil treated,You need to do some research to get your facts straight.
 
It looks like your cylinder has a couple tiny pits in it. It also has some vertical lines where the shiny spots are. See if you can feel these lines with your fingernail. Since you have it apart, I would check the piston to cylinder clearance just have it.

Is there any vertical lines on the piston that you can feel?
 
I always thought it's a poorly coated nicasil layer. It might be a crap, because that was the cheapest on Ebay, my original cylinder looks better, but some people said it's worn and I need to replace it (I used 1:40 oil mixture). Now I'm using 1:30, started breaking in with 1:16, but after 3 days the cylinder coating started to peel off. I'd like to make a sleeved cylinder or buy one, that would last longer. And yes I can feel the wear lines. I live in Europe (Hungary) and I can't find any resource for the sleeve. Could a steel pipe work as a sleeve? I know someone who can make the sleeving I just need to give him the resource.
 
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