Clutch Advise Tanaka 33


BTB Wild

I plan to inspect the clutch pads during the winter down time. I have no clue how to proceed with the disassembly nor have I found sufficient info using the search. I would gladly appreciate any do's and don'ts of other info to help me access the clutch pads.
I'll assume I have to dismount the engine from the bike? ( I purchased a quality set of T handled allen wrenches and ball end wrenches) Most likely I'll order new pads and attempt to install them myself. Does anyone own 2 clutch assemblies and rotate them out upon wear. Here in hilly PA that makes sense to me. Thanks for any help!
I may have read these posts before but it does not answer my question......that is...the disassembly of the clutch step by step. Thanks though, good info.
BTB. I don't recall reading a thread showing the disassembly of a centrif clutch. So I guess you get to do the honors. On the positive side, from what I have seen, it should be a pretty straight forward operation. Please provide good detail and pics. The way I ride, I'll be using it for reference soon.
Hi BTB, what did you find out? It seems that there is a problem with clutches as to what parts fit what engines and/or mounting systems. I would like to get a Mitsubishi TLE43 but it is almost impossible to find out what fits what. The engine will replace almost any of the engines on almost any small engine kit but the problem is trying to find out what clutch housings and drives fit which mounting kits and are they interchangeable?. Do the clutches have to be bought in one unit or can each piece be bought separately? Is there a cross reference list somewhere? Augidog has been involved in different mount systems so maybe he can help. Possible that a new sticky on clutches, housings and which one fits what can be started?
Well KENSPICE, I have not yet begun to dig into the clutch assembly. Temps warming up around here so I was hoping to get a ride or 2 in before it gets cold again.
GEBE told me I can order clutch pads from Tanaka so I'm assuming the clutch is part of the stock engine.....but I could be wrong. I'll be sure to post my findings when I get around to working on the bike. I estimate only 300 miles thusfar. I got a odometer / speedometer for Christmas that needs installed too. Should have bought one of these from day #1.
It appears that it may be possible to remove the engine/clutch without removing all the mounting brackets.....then again I am not certain about this till I dig in. :confused:
Removing engine/clutch assembly

I've got the original KZ 25cc kit, and though I haven't messed with the clutch, removing the engine is a snap. There is a set screw on top of the clutch housing that when loosened allows the whole engine to slip off the mount by pulling it horizontally to the right of the bike. No need to mess with mounting straps.

I don't know if the new kits have a similar arrangement.
Here's some clutch advice from Dennis (owner/inventor of Golden Eagle)
--- The top right pic shows r/s engine (Tanaka is identical) is straight on view of clutch shoes w/spring. To access clutch shoes remove the engine bracket (step#3) and clutch housing (step#1).

You'll need a GOOD Allen to remove the engine bracket/clutch housing bolts and you'll want to be sure you can torque bolts back on when you replace them. Be sure to note which bolt goes back in the correct bolt hole!

While engine is torn down to replace shoes; this is a Perfect time to clean the engine - spray brake cleaner on, and road grime/carbon drips off - Wipe well with soft cloth, to thoroughly dry.


If you feel you're up to the task - Pay Attention when Removing Bolts and Shoes -

Mitsubishi owners if you have an Eagle, step 3 is pic of your clutch shoes. John Deere makes the Mitsubishi engine.

Tanaka, Robin/Subaru, Honda, John Deer - all accept the KSK 76mm clutch shoe.

If ridden properly a set of shoes should last 2 or more years - if you don't find that kind of life, it's probably your riding style. It WILL wear out shoes prematurely if, when on a hill that is so steep or long, that engine speed slows to 8 - 10 mph - it's NOT going to do any good to hold throttle Wide Open, to try to power up the hill!! You'll have Much better results if - when you feel the clutch slip, reduce throttle slightly and Pedal to assist the engine. As you feel the clutch re-engage, Slowly increase throttle, to increase speed. Listen to your engine and you'll soon learn when rpm is mated to speed, you'll have the hill climb you need.

The Subaru's continue to gain in hill climb, fuel efficiency and top speeds through 2000 miles. The Tanakas continue to improve up to 3500 miles.

I'm definitely Not a member of the Spandex gang and not about to stand up to pedal extreme hills. My feet may be on the ground but I'm hanging on to the handle bars, and I'm still pulling the throttle - that engine is Going to pull me up that Hill!!
Thanks Vaughn! This is a great start. I bought a top set of allen T wrenches to get to the clutch. Are any special tools needed to open the clutch, reset the springs etc?
I'd suggest your excellent riding instructions be included with engine purchase. I had to learn this technique via trial and error. I took the bike for a 27 mile ride today and it ran great. Employing the techniques you mentioned along with a noticeable performance boost during the break-in. Maybe I don't need to access the clutch just yet. About 2 weeks ago I could smell the clutch burn a bit, excessive slipping etc. Today is seemed OK. I'd estimate 400 miles on the bike. Maybe I'll ride a few more times ( weather permitting) before I open er up. Thanks for the info!