Johnny_
Well-Known Member
No, but the stuff that I use from the Lucas branded container that says "GREASE", is.Those green snots you get when you pick your nose is NOT grease Johnny...lol...lol...lol.
No, but the stuff that I use from the Lucas branded container that says "GREASE", is.Those green snots you get when you pick your nose is NOT grease Johnny...lol...lol...lol.
Also, if you have your clutch out, check play of basket bearings. These come brand new with side to side play and latteral play. I replaced the 3 mm ball bearings with 1/8 inch bearings, this takes all free play out and lets your clutch run quite and smoother. You may have to use some Emory cloth to open up basket bearing seat. If you will put the clutch backing plate in the freezer for a day or two makes reassembly into clutch basket a whole lot easier. I use red tacky grease on new bearings.PSA time! I've been seeing cracked bevel gears lately,spun woodruff keys,excessive play in drive gears so here's the low down. When you get a motor often the bevel gear and clutch basket are overlooked. Just slap grease on and go right? .... NO! First let's look at our bevel gear. We want that seated flush and even "proud" on the crank.
Do this by removing the bolt and placing a socket of the right size to fit into the recess (13mm I believe). Then gently tap until it's flush and even on the shaft.
Next we turn focus to the clutch basket. Make sure the teeth are meshing evenly. This can easily be done by eye but If you wanna go overboard and use a dab of paint to see the mesh pattern on the gears then sure why not. Using a similar method make sure the basket is well seated on the shaft an you've got good engagement on the teeth.
Here's some pics
1. Just demonstrating which one is the bevel and what is meant by even. Notice it's no full flush with the shaft and one side is higher.
2 poor gear alignment
3. Good gear alignment. The teeth are well aligned and contacting maximum surface area. The purpose of the paint check is to you can see that gears a sitting evenly together.
After everything is aligned well wipe gears and pressure plate with brake clean. Dry and reinstall.
The break clean on the pressure surface will also wipe away any coating or factory contaminants. Similar to wiping brand new brake or clutch components before install.
After assembled put a light coating of grease on contact points by adding and rotating patiently. Careful not to just glob it on but trying to spread well across teeth.
Make sure flower nut is adjusted and cover.
This is VERY often overlooked and the simple process of aligning you gears will prevent premature wear and failure due to excess friction and added stress.
The benefits will be smoother quieter operation,extendeded life of all components (even bearings) and even more power to the pavement due to less unnecessary friction.
Hopefully this is helpful to someone.
(Pics to provide a visual reference for easier explanation. Simply helping describe components and visual aid describing a proper smoothly functioning setup.)
I plan to order a sealed bearing basketAlso, if you have your clutch out, check play of basket bearings. These come brand new with side to side play and latteral play. I replaced the 3 mm ball bearings with 1/8 inch bearings, this takes all free play out and lets your clutch run quite and smoother. You may have to use some Emory cloth to open up basket bearing seat. If you will put the clutch backing plate in the freezer for a day or two makes reassembly into clutch basket a whole lot easier. I use red tacky grease on new bearings.
I like to throw valve lapping compound in there and turn the gear/clutch on their shafts. Removal afterward is more difficult but helps them set where they should.PSA time! I've been seeing cracked bevel gears lately,spun woodruff keys,excessive play in drive gears so here's the low down. When you get a motor often the bevel gear and clutch basket are overlooked. Just slap grease on and go right? .... NO! First let's look at our bevel gear. We want that seated flush and even "proud" on the crank.
Do this by removing the bolt and placing a socket of the right size to fit into the recess (13mm I believe). Then gently tap until it's flush and even on the shaft.
Next we turn focus to the clutch basket. Make sure the teeth are meshing evenly. This can easily be done by eye but If you wanna go overboard and use a dab of paint to see the mesh pattern on the gears then sure why not. Using a similar method make sure the basket is well seated on the shaft an you've got good engagement on the teeth.
Here's some pics
1. Just demonstrating which one is the bevel and what is meant by even. Notice it's no full flush with the shaft and one side is higher.
2 poor gear alignment
3. Good gear alignment. The teeth are well aligned and contacting maximum surface area. The purpose of the paint check is to you can see that gears a sitting evenly together.
After everything is aligned well wipe gears and pressure plate with brake clean. Dry and reinstall.
The break clean on the pressure surface will also wipe away any coating or factory contaminants. Similar to wiping brand new brake or clutch components before install.
After assembled put a light coating of grease on contact points by adding and rotating patiently. Careful not to just glob it on but trying to spread well across teeth.
Make sure flower nut is adjusted and cover.
This is VERY often overlooked and the simple process of aligning you gears will prevent premature wear and failure due to excess friction and added stress.
The benefits will be smoother quieter operation,extendeded life of all components (even bearings) and even more power to the pavement due to less unnecessary friction.
Hopefully this is helpful to someone.
(Pics to provide a visual reference for easier explanation. Simply helping describe components and visual aid describing a proper smoothly functioning setup.)
Thank you for this addition! I know it's s boring subject lol but thought it finally deserved attentionI like to throw valve lapping compound in there and turn the gear/clutch on their shafts. Removal afterward is more difficult but helps them set where they should.
I like to apply grease to the gears with a toothpick so it gets all the way in there. The black molybdenum grease is what I use on everything now.
The basket should be contacting 100% of the bevels teeth. Then by making sure the bevel is "proud" if Wil provide an even mesh.Soooo my two gears aren't level, the little one sits higher than the big one, and I think only like 2/3 is contacting. Should they be level?