Clutch engagement?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Neufcruz, Mar 3, 2016.

  1. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    image.jpg Clutch lever not pulled in.
    Clutch lever pulled in.

    I went ahead and connected the clutch cable up. I used the left over steel braided sleeve and ran a new cable through so it matches the throttle cable.
    My question is how far does the clutch arm need to pulled in?
    I have the cable as tight as it can be without actually pulling it in. When I pull lever in, it only moves in about 1".
    What's the proper way to set up?
    I still need to pull off clutch cover and take a hammer as the drive sprocket does not spin at all even when clutch arm is pushed all the way in.
    That's next!
    Thanks in advance.

  2. bakaneko

    bakaneko Active Member

    i say fix the drive sprocket first and then adjust the clutch level arm.
  3. skyash

    skyash Active Member

    Yeah if you can walk the bike when in then not when out. Some times it will slip a bit when riding so adjust when it happens
  4. butre

    butre Well-Known Member

    that looks about right
  5. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    Was curious because by hand I can push it in pretty far(as I have done trying to engage clutch to free drive sprocket) now that cable and lever are hooked, I was concerned it doesn't move enough.
    I guess I should get clutch and drive actually working and it would answer my question for me.
    Will report back tomorrow with results.
    Thanks all

  6. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    Went ahead and did the hammer persuasion technique on the clutch plate and it ow spins while lever pulled in.
    Next question is, how freely should it spin. While clutch is in and in locked position, should the bike pedal/ride like it does with no engine of chain on?
  7. bakaneko

    bakaneko Active Member

    It should spin freely with no engine resistance. There will always be some resistance due to the chain and drive sprocket. I feel there are two clutch positions : all the way in and the lock point. It is important to make sure the engine is fully disengaged and wheel spins freely at the lock point and not all the way in otherwise you won't be able to idle at the lock point. You can tell if it is not tightened correctly if there is some difficulty in peddling and the engine has trouble idling and dies.
  8. Neufcruz

    Neufcruz Member

    Haven't fired it up yet so ant tell the idle part yet. By hand it feels about the same resistance, all the way in and locked but have to imagine it will be a little harder to ideal with the drive chain on. Before I gas it up, I'm taking her for her last ride technically as a pedal bike.
    Thanks for the clearing up!
  9. bakaneko

    bakaneko Active Member

    Cool. Just to clarify the two practical engaged clutch positions are all the way in and locked. It makes sense to be aware of both because when you stop at a stop sign (if u do) or light or just need to stop briefly I rarely lock my clutch but pull it all the way in. However, if you are running inside the house to pick up a forgotten item or there is a mile long train in front of you or showing it off to someone then it make sense to put the clutch in the lock position.