Clutch gear for 410 chain.

[ZekeNoScooter_8]

Chain. Stupid phone!!!!!

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

The only one I know is the Grubee #410 "narrow" sprocket. It is 0.120" thick for 0.125" chain. The hole in the middle is for the older narrower clutch shaft and smaller woodruff key. I can't recall the size, but it will not fit your newer engine. Filing out the hole and keyway in this is a lot harder than grinding the cheap and plentiful #415 sprockets thinner. You won't damage or anneal the sprocket by grinding it down.

 

[CrazyDan]

You might weaken the steel by dremeling the sprocket down, heating it up from that might remove some of the carbon. You can add carbon back after you grind it down by heating it up till glowing and shoving it into a pile of ashes.

 

[HumanPerson]

Dremel and water....

Keep things cool while abrasively removing material/metal?!

You can use a light oil and a SLOW speed on your dremel/multi tool


I use water though.

Ride Safe!

HP

 

[HumanPerson]

As long as you angle the grind right, like start at the top on one tooth and take the chain and fit it....make sense?

You are Not gonna compromise the structural integrity of the sprocket if you start from the top and remove in small/thin increments.

Now if you get Yakky, well.. then you fubar things.


Ride Safe!

HP

 

[GreasyChris]

I too run a jackshaft and filed down my 10T sprocket with a dremel to accept hl710 chain. Just take your time and keep checking the fit of the chain.

 

[ZekeNoScooter_8]

The only one I know is the Grubee #410 "narrow" sprocket. It is 0.120" thick for 0.125" chain. The hole in the middle is for the older narrower clutch shaft and smaller woodruff key. I can't recall the size, but it will not fit your newer engine. Filing out the hole and keyway in this is a lot harder than grinding the cheap and plentiful #415 sprockets thinner. You won't damage or anneal the sprocket by grinding it down.

Thanks for the feedback Furry, that's what I'm learning. Last question: when reworking this gear, do I only take the width in? Or am I gonna have to re shape the points and gaskets too? I have a brand new gear, never had a chain on it, and I was running the smaller chain around it and it looks to me like I shouldn't need to mess with the points Just bring the width down. BTW, I broke the 1 st chain I had on there, but that was expected, it had say in trans fluid for weeks just to get it limber enough to mount. It was a rusted mess. I replaced it with a HL710, all half links, very light, and (supposedly) its stretch proof. Yeah right. But it's doin marvelous so far.

 

[ZekeNoScooter_8]

Ok. Quick update.
So my new chain got here. Friggin beautiful! Bout a week later, old chain broke. I wasn't surprised. My "custom" sprocket looked surprisingly good, so I went ahead and used it with the new chain. Maybe a hundred miles or so but neither seems to be cheering up the other...
I found a vendor who said they had the sprocket I was after.....
They lied.
So now I have an extra, brand new, 415 10 tooth. I'm cutting up that one.

So new question for everyone:
Re shaping the 415 sprocket (brand new), do I only take down the width? Or are the points too high? Er, valleys too low? As always, any feedback is welcome. Even to criticize my flaky ideas. I like to consider all opinions before establishing my own.
Thanks, Zeke

 

[ZekeNoScooter_8]

I too run a jackshaft and filed down my 10T sprocket with a dremel to accept hl710 chain. Just take your time and keep checking the fit of the chain.

Appreciate the feedback Chris.
When you reworked the 10 tooth, did you have to mod the points/valleys? Or just width? Seems to me just width should do it. Keep in mind I'm starting with a brand new sprocket, zero wear.
Thanks my

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Just width.

And the tips of the teeth are IMHO way too square and need to have their corners rounded off.