Clutch getting tighter?

DAMIEN1307

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Even though I got slime and heavy-duty tubes and kevlar tires... nothing is puncture-proof. 3 years and my first flat. @DAMIEN1307 you are next! :ROFLMAO:
Those Slime extra thick tubes were supposed to be changed out every two years as per their instructions on the box...You were a year overdue...lol...On the sunnyside, you got an extra year out of them...lol.
 

Zak

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So I decided to pull apart my other side. When following @Karl Snarl 's advice I was looking up some video to visualize his words, I found a vid that mentioned the clutch arm and bucking bar wearing out and causing problems with the clutch not disengaging. Low and behold both my clutch arm and bucking bar were severely worn. Good thing I have a few engines laying around for spare parts.

The bucking bar image shows the side that rode against the ball bearing, I flipped it for a steady image.

IMG_20220313_143752522.jpg
IMG_20220313_143915244.jpg
 

Street Ryderz

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Unfortunately that's a pretty common issue as the Chinese metal's are very soft, I've seen them much worse than that so what I do is grind down the flat and build it up with weld and reshape the replace the bucking bar with drill blank, the bearing can get pretty deformed as well over time so a 8mm ball bearing replaces it then they all last quite awhile, too much tension contributes to this wear so it's best to have just a little slack/endplay so that everything can move and turn freely not wearing on each other.
 

Zak

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Unfortunately that's a pretty common issue as the Chinese metal's are very soft, I've seen them much worse than that so what I do is grind down the flat and build it up with weld and reshape the replace the bucking bar with drill blank, the bearing can get pretty deformed as well over time so a 8mm ball bearing replaces it then they all last quite awhile, too much tension contributes to this wear so it's best to have just a little slack/endplay so that everything can move and turn freely not wearing on each other.
Yeah I may as well put the ball bearing in too. The donor engine only ran for a few weeks. I'm planning on doing my first engine rebuild with it
 

Chainlube

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Unfortunately that's a pretty common issue as the Chinese metal's are very soft, I've seen them much worse than that so what I do is grind down the flat and build it up with weld and reshape the replace the bucking bar with drill blank, the bearing can get pretty deformed as well over time so a 8mm ball bearing replaces it then they all last quite awhile, too much tension contributes to this wear so it's best to have just a little slack/endplay so that everything can move and turn freely not wearing on each other.
I've welded a few of those too. It seems the welds are always harder than the original piece.
 

DAMIEN1307

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too much tension contributes to this wear so it's best to have just a little slack/endplay so that everything can move and turn freely not wearing on each other.
Yeah I may as well put the ball bearing in too. The donor engine only ran for a few weeks. I'm planning on doing my first engine rebuild with it
Good idea to replace the ball bearing along with the bucking bar and the actuator...definitely a sign it was all too tight in there...Dont forget to use a dap of either white lithium grease or Lucas red and tacky on both ends of the bucking bar as well...DAMIEN
 
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