Clutch is always slipping no matter what

[ismellnownlatters]

If I was you I'd bend the bar but imagine idiot and can't even afford to stay at holiday Inn

 

[ismellnownlatters]

Bar may just snap

 

[ismellnownlatters]

I'm wrong in my thinking been a while since I did mine but now I'm thinking hitting the carb would just cause issues with the clutch disengaging

 

[Redm777]

I know all that, my clutch doesn't slip either. I've done it the same way for 12 or 15 bikes.

Like I said before, take the arm apart and move the rod outboard a little. Then it won't be contacting the carb.

But then the clutch lever will have 0 tension

 

[ismellnownlatters]

Well I give up good luck

 

[Redm777]

Let's assume for the moment it is something far simpler and more stupid that may be causing the issue. Let's assume the clutch is being adjusted correctly, but still not engaging properly.

First, there can be an occasional issue of the set screw for the flower nut on the pressure plate being just a little too long and protruding into the clutch, causing it to not actually clamp against the clutch pads. This will cause it to slip. THe screw should basically be almost flush with the inside of the pressure plate surface, or maybe sticking out a thread at most.

Second, If the main pin that secures the seat for the main spring has slipped out of place just enough to partially release tension from the main spring, it can cause it to slip. It will visually seem to be ok, but it's just enough to cause a problem. The easiest way to tell is if the seat for the spring is slightly crooked while under tension.

Third, if the clutch arm is contacting the carburetor... that could be an issue. Without knowing where it sits with the tension JUST barely taken off of the bucking bar so the arm has a teeny bit of freeplay, that would just be a guessing game.

I’ll check the screw thing I remember that from an LA HOVER video, I’ll be checking everything that could be it

 

[Nickt919]

If the big, internal spring is too loose it can cause this problem. Even with the pressure plate, flower nut all adjusted correctly the assembly will not put adequate pressure on the pads. If this clutch shaft assembly has not been taken out or disturbed then there may be a problem with the internal shaft or pin. But...
This big internal spring can be adjusted without taking it out of the engine. The piece that screws into the block that holds the clutch cable... remove it. Stick a thin blade flat head driver in that hole. Carefully roll the bike backwards a tiny bit. It does not take much moving the bike backwards with the driver in the hole. If the driver blade is in the correct spot...in the slot on the collar....it will hold the collar. As the bike goes backwards it will screw the clutch shaft and in turn tighten the spring. This will make the pads bite the plate harder when the clutch is released. The slot on the collar is usually right in line below the hole that the clutch cable holder piece screws in to.

Here's a set of pics below to give a visual as to what I am describing.

If the clutch just started slipping for no particular reason...as in, nothing changed or removed or adjusted...there could be a problem with the internal pin and or shaft. If the pin or shaft is broken, sheared, or damaged the clutch lever should be very soft...like no resistance when the lever is pulled in.
The big internal spring does not just get loose...at least as far as I know...there has to be something else to cause this spring to loosen.

 

[Redm777]

If the big, internal spring is too loose it can cause this problem. Even with the pressure plate, flower nut all adjusted correctly the assembly will not put adequate pressure on the pads. If this clutch shaft assembly has not been taken out or disturbed then there may be a problem with the internal shaft or pin. But...
This big internal spring can be adjusted without taking it out of the engine. The piece that screws into the block that holds the clutch cable... remove it. Stick a thin blade flat head driver in that hole. Carefully roll the bike backwards a tiny bit. It does not take much moving the bike backwards with the driver in the hole. If the driver blade is in the correct spot...in the slot on the collar....it will hold the collar. As the bike goes backwards it will screw the clutch shaft and in turn tighten the spring. This will make the pads bite the plate harder when the clutch is released. The slot on the collar is usually right in line below the hole that the clutch cable holder piece screws in to.

Here's a set of pics below to give a visual as to what I am describing.

If the clutch just started slipping for no particular reason...as in, nothing changed or removed or adjusted...there could be a problem with the internal pin and or shaft. If the pin or shaft is broken, sheared, or damaged the clutch lever should be very soft...like no resistance when the lever is pulled in.
The big internal spring does not just get loose...at least as far as I know...there has to be something else to cause this spring to loosen.

I’m worried I will go to tight as I already done this like two months ago and I will bend the collar pin..

 

[Axl Myk]

I'm checking on mine if it's splined it's sure stuck to shaft

They are a very tight fit. I've used my arbor press to get them apart.

 

[Nickt919]

I know this is a silly question but.. are you sure the woodruff key is in there and not sheared?
Both sides of that shaft has a key