clutch isn't disengaging?

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by christophermcmahon, Oct 21, 2014.

  1. christophermcmahon

    christophermcmahon New Member

    Hey everyone, I have finished mounting my 80cc engine on my beach cruiser and it runs good, but at out of no where, it got harder to pedal when the clutch is locked in, tho I can still start it. Also the bike will stay idle with the clutch in, but if I lift the back wheel it will spin, how do I stop this? Do I tighten the flower nut or pull the clutch lever through the clutch arm more? Thanks in advanced for your thoughts on the problem.

  2. crassius

    crassius Well-Known Member

    first adjust the cable (it stretches when hew), then if needed adjust the flower nut
    piecepatrol99 likes this.
  3. piecepatrol99

    piecepatrol99 Member

    Sounds like you have good contact at the clutch plate and pads. Save the adjuster screw on the clutch it self as a last resort.
    I would go a step beyond what was described in just adjusting the cable.
    My kit (purchased in 2010) actually came with a bad sleeve. Over the years it slowly frayed the cable until it jammed this past august and would not let the clutch engage fully.
    I could get the motor started but would just spin the motor up when I gave it gas; I was going no where fast. The problem strangely first showed it self as you described: back wheel still turning when clutch lever pulled in and locked.
    The burred sleeve/jacked wasn't allowing the cable to travel the distance the lever released it. I didn't notice this due to the spring in the lever that cause it to appear as though it was completely out when released.

    I say this to give you an idea how much resistance the sleeve was applying to the cable. Consider the clutch arm pulling and the lever 'pushing' the cable and I still did not get consistant travel from the cable causing the clutch to slip one day and be super grabby the next. With or without cable adjustment...

    When it finally frayed the cable enough that it jammed, I had to disassemble the cable. Strip away the frayed/broken strands all the way to the lug at the lever and reassemble the cable to get home where I replaced the entire cable assembly. That's when I realized the burr inside the sleeve. Replacing the cable showed me how the animal was supposed to act vs the the **** poor reliability I got from the original cable.

    A cable tune up kit from walmart or a visit to a bike shop for a rear brake cable will fix this.
    christophermcmahon likes this.
  4. christophermcmahon

    christophermcmahon New Member

    Hey dude thanks for the info, I ended up getting a new wire because the wire unthearded and came out of the clutch arm when I was adjusting it. I got it back on and the back wheel spins freely now. It turns out my problem was that I did not have a stoper to keep the flower nut in place! Such a noob mistake haha, I put one there and the clutch seems to be working now, but I seem to have run into another problem because my engine will not start I have been working on it for the past 3 hours trouble shooting. When I pedal the engine almost starts then dies out. Iv tried seeing if the kill switch was faulty, which its not, and i tried pedaling for a few minutes to get the gas flowing which did not work. My dad thinks I need a better spark plug, but idk cause this one still sparks, tho it did come with the kit and they are known to be bad. I'm pretty sure my clutch is adjusted correctly, back wheel spins freely and when engaged it still sparks. My exhust pipe is driping oil which is good, the bike just won't start. The sad this is that the bike was working prefectly fine before I even put a stopper to stop the flower nut. Any suggestions on what night be causing this? Also I got impatient and poured a little gas into the engine which did nothing.
  5. piecepatrol99

    piecepatrol99 Member

    My stock CDI died after winter storage. Mud wasps started a hive in my tail pipe and clogged it. Last spring, trying and failing to start the motor... I asked here what could be the problem...?
    I was directed to they have a link on their page for CDI diagnosis and repair.
    I don't recall the exact specs, I believe testing the black and blue lead from the loop and or the CDI should show 38 to 345 ohms on a multimeter. Double check the site to be sure...

    I tell this long story cuz I've been up 36hrs+. But here's a case in fact:
    When my CDI quit, it showed 0 ohms bit still fired the plug. It was allowing voltage to pass but wasn't building a charge to run the motor...

    Check the site, get the specs, check your electrical system.
    Its rarely the spark plug. Not never, just rarely...