Clutch clutch not working
- Thread starter geronimo
- Start date
If the clutch moves entirely freely with no resistance or effect, and the clutch arm is moving as expected, then it's quite likely you've lost the bucking bar that sits within the drive sprocket.
Pretty simple to check, remove the sprocket cover and see if the hole in the middle of the sprocket is filled or not.
If however it is missing, its a good idea to check the hole to make sure the ball bearing is still inside, otherwise you will need to order one of these also. Average price for both is about AU$6 plus postage.
Im sure if you say where you're from someone will be able to recommend a supplier.
Pretty simple to check, remove the sprocket cover and see if the hole in the middle of the sprocket is filled or not.
If however it is missing, its a good idea to check the hole to make sure the ball bearing is still inside, otherwise you will need to order one of these also. Average price for both is about AU$6 plus postage.
Im sure if you say where you're from someone will be able to recommend a supplier.
AussieSteve
Active Member
Sounds like you might have lost it. Easy to check, (even before posting).
As Mike says, ensure that you haven't also lost your ball bearing from behind the bucking-bar.
Who did you buy your kit from? Do they sell spares?
Otherwise, I think ThatsDax sell bucking-bars and balls.
(This should really have been posted in 'Frame-Mounted Drive Trains' for the right responses.)
As Mike says, ensure that you haven't also lost your ball bearing from behind the bucking-bar.
Who did you buy your kit from? Do they sell spares?
Otherwise, I think ThatsDax sell bucking-bars and balls.
(This should really have been posted in 'Frame-Mounted Drive Trains' for the right responses.)
gothicguy64
Member
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- Aug 3, 2009
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bucking bar
i know that zbox motors sells the bucking bar an ball for 5 dollars aussie .
site is zbox.com.au
i know that zbox motors sells the bucking bar an ball for 5 dollars aussie .
site is zbox.com.au
AussieSteve
Active Member
AussieSteve
Active Member
Mike, are you still using the cut-off drill bit?
I only suggested that on the spur of the moment at the time, but I'd be interested to know if it feels smoother than the original bucking-bar, since it's made of harder metal.
The original bucking-bars, (hate that name, I'd change one letter), are made of soft steel and the cam bites into them, but that shouldn't happen with the drill bit.
I only suggested that on the spur of the moment at the time, but I'd be interested to know if it feels smoother than the original bucking-bar, since it's made of harder metal.
The original bucking-bars, (hate that name, I'd change one letter), are made of soft steel and the cam bites into them, but that shouldn't happen with the drill bit.
AussieSteve
Active Member
Do you have it inserted with the smooth end outwards, to reduce friction?
I would have thought that a nice smooth, hard surface where the cam rubs would make the clutch easier to disengage. I tried hardening the original bucking-bar, but it didn't work well enough. Case hardening would have been better.
At least the drill bit won't be bitten into by the cam like the original b-bar was.
As you say, it's already in better condition and it should stay that way.
I'll do it myself eventually, and slightly curve the outer face of the drill bit, then polish it.
... Steve
I would have thought that a nice smooth, hard surface where the cam rubs would make the clutch easier to disengage. I tried hardening the original bucking-bar, but it didn't work well enough. Case hardening would have been better.
At least the drill bit won't be bitten into by the cam like the original b-bar was.
As you say, it's already in better condition and it should stay that way.
I'll do it myself eventually, and slightly curve the outer face of the drill bit, then polish it.
... Steve
