Clutch upgrade

[GreasyChris]

That’s one badass bike. Is the engine from Rdm?

The case is from smolik performance, the head and clutch is from Rdm,cylinder is from scootertuning.ca and the crank is from Dave at Arrow motorized bikes.

 

[Karl Snarl]

RDM stage 4 clutch has no preload spring or adjuster, he's using actual brake linings for pads not cheap Chinese pads, and the pressure plate has cuts in it to aid in grip so scuffing it up isn't going to hurt it at all!

Oh if he's using real clutch material, brake pad is "pretty much" same thing, then ya no worries on the clutch plate ruining the pad. These stock pads can't handle a scuffed clutch plate with any real power going through. I make my own pads now, those stock ones suck compared to real material. Can actually get power to the wheel without slipping it up to speed. Although they are a lot more grabby off the line, but a little pedaling solves that, even with a jack shaft kit.

 

[Spare_Parts]

NICE !! Now THAT, boys n gals, is a clutch ! I guess U can only go one better and that's only if you have stupid amounts of grunt with horsepower rating in the double digits figures which also warrants a setup requiring most of the aluminium clutch compartment cover cut away, replaced with a huge hole to accommodate three chunky external springs on the clutch plate itself to assist with clamping duties , other than that, this 'Stage 4' unit u have here is more than sufficient to take on 99.999 % of 2 stroke bicycle applications - race or otherwise.... To be perfectly honest, the tidy RDM unit you have here would probably be considered as 'overkill' in majority of 2 stroke applications in a bicycle....
Once again to sum it up using one short word - NICE !

Stage 4 is the best out. The 3 external springs don't stand a chance. I can set this one so heavy it it will just snap cables. Shaft and flywheel are 1 piece so no more junk stock baskets to deal with. Flywheel is flat and true. Large gear Rides on a sealed bearing and has a retainer unlike the other sealed clutches. It's easy to adjust, don't have ti grind springs.

I have owned all the clutches except the Zn1. Dlh, rdm stage 2, 3 and 4 and bought a couple of sealed baskets that got returned.

 

[Jayraye39]

Buy a second stock plate stack them together and it does the same exact thing as these more expensive thick plates $6 fix. I added bout 2 hp to my motor and this trick word I have not slipped since I can even rev high and release multiple timez no slipage

 

[Street Ryderz]

Buy a second stock plate stack them together and it does the same exact thing as these more expensive thick plates $6 fix. I added bout 2 hp to my motor and this trick word I have not slipped since I can even rev high and release multiple timez View attachment 156898no slipage
View attachment 156897

Dude these guys have 8-10 hp, double what your getting and this does not even come close in comparison.

 

[Karl Snarl]

Dude these guys have 8-10 hp, double what your getting and this does not even come close in comparison.

Thats some nice numbers. Most bikes get 2-4hp. Little extra work an ya get 5hp. An 5 hp is really more than enough to break a bike frame. Ask me how i know. Lol. 4-5hp is about all ya need for a daily rider. After that is just not very street friendly, best to keep em on the track at that point. Not that you couldn't ride it on the street, but why waste a race engine wearing it down in street runs. A lot of these normal riding guys think they are pumping out 5 to 10 hp. An usually barely hitting 3-4. Not that 4 hp aint nice, its just not the number they think it is. Lol. I wish we had a race around here, id build more like the fast one i built to run tracks. Working on getting a following for MB around here. Untill there is a club and a race going here, I'll keep em to 4-5hp max. After that they just will wear to fast to be a street/ daily rider. My average build is around 3.5- 4hp, more than plenty for my style of riding, even in the heavy trails.

 

[Frogslayer]

There's just no way mine is pushing over 2 hp lol. It's still to powerful for the Walmart frame it's on lol.

 

[Street Ryderz]

Thats some nice numbers. Most bikes get 2-4hp. Little extra work an ya get 5hp. An 5 hp is really more than enough to break a bike frame. Ask me how i know. Lol. 4-5hp is about all ya need for a daily rider. After that is just not very street friendly, best to keep em on the track at that point. Not that you couldn't ride it on the street, but why waste a race engine wearing it down in street runs. A lot of these normal riding guys think they are pumping out 5 to 10 hp. An usually barely hitting 3-4. Not that 4 hp aint nice, its just not the number they think it is. Lol. I wish we had a race around here, id build more like the fast one i built to run tracks. Working on getting a following for MB around here. Untill there is a club and a race going here, I'll keep em to 4-5hp max. After that they just will wear to fast to be a street/ daily rider. My average build is around 3.5- 4hp, more than plenty for my style of riding, even in the heavy trails.

Both Spare parts and Greasy Chris are running Minarelli cylinders rated for 10-15 hp on their intended engine and on a bicycle engine 8-10 is dyno proven, with a Chinese cylinder 8-10 hp is around the most you can get due to the pumping efficiency difference the case volume makes, I've been making 8-10 hp out of the China girl in my bike for over a decade and only replaced the cylinder once in that time everything else was fine and still is being used since 08 so I don't agree that they wear out faster when built right and used daily. The bikes we build are built for that power, stronger frames, alot of custom parts made for the task as we don't have a death wish we just want some real power for both the street and the track! I have posted many little tricks used to ensure the engines longevity here over the years that many now use when building for speed and power, crank balance is first and foremost then port timings and area's that won't snag rings, shimming the wrist pin bearing and wrist pin clip modification pretty much eliminate the chance of failure making top ends last for thousands of miles of cruising at 50 effortlessly and top speeds over 60, most street guys with performance builds are faster than those on the track as the highesst speed seen on the track so far has only been 50 yet on the street it's just over 70 due to having the space to let it actually top out and use gearing that permits the higher speeds without over reving the engine, I use an 11 tooth on the engine and a 30 tooth on the rear wheel that is 27" in dia, this gives me 50 mph at 7000 rpm and the engine can do this all day as the pipe hit is at 6,500 and carries to 10,500, this is within a reasonable rpm range that doesn't grenade when built and setup right, with stockish engines 11k is the limit and 12k is guarantied to let go, trust I've done it many times trying to find the limits of these engines, yet the Minarelli cylinders will rev 12-14 k and stay together again if built and setup right but they dont like being over geared or they don't get into the power range without slipping the clutch so thus far the speed ends up being around the same they just get there quicker!

 

[Karl Snarl]

Both Spare parts and Greasy Chris are running Minarelli cylinders rated for 10-15 hp on their intended engine and on a bicycle engine 8-10 is dyno proven, with a Chinese cylinder 8-10 hp is around the most you can get due to the pumping efficiency difference the case volume makes, I've been making 8-10 hp out of the China girl in my bike for over a decade and only replaced the cylinder once in that time everything else was fine and still is being used since 08 so I don't agree that they wear out faster when built right and used daily. The bikes we build are built for that power, stronger frames, alot of custom parts made for the task as we don't have a death wish we just want some real power for both the street and the track! I have posted many little tricks used to ensure the engines longevity here over the years that many now use when building for speed and power, crank balance is first and foremost then port timings and area's that won't snag rings, shimming the wrist pin bearing and wrist pin clip modification pretty much eliminate the chance of failure making top ends last for thousands of miles of cruising at 50 effortlessly and top speeds over 60, most street guys with performance builds are faster than those on the track as the highesst speed seen on the track so far has only been 50 yet on the street it's just over 70 due to having the space to let it actually top out and use gearing that permits the higher speeds without over reving the engine, I use an 11 tooth on the engine and a 30 tooth on the rear wheel that is 27" in dia, this gives me 50 mph at 7000 rpm and the engine can do this all day as the pipe hit is at 6,500 and carries to 10,500, this is within a reasonable rpm range that doesn't grenade when built and setup right, with stockish engines 11k is the limit and 12k is guarantied to let go, trust I've done it many times trying to find the limits of these engines, yet the Minarelli cylinders will rev 12-14 k and stay together again if built and setup right but they dont like being over geared or they don't get into the power range without slipping the clutch so thus far the speed ends up being around the same they just get there quicker!

I was referring to the normal guys. Lol. The ones not in the know. The race guys i believe are pumpin some power. Just as I dont doubt you pump it too. The other guys with little engine time etc, think the mz clone gives em another 5 hp. . Now you racers, which i would love to around here, got to have power. Otherwise why race. Lol. I've read a lot of your posts, and you know what you are doing. Pretty sure I've even used some of your tricks and tips. The wear i was referring to was stock parts. Them cheap stock ht cylinders peel real quick with high compression. Im not racing so i dont use saw jugs or real jugs. Soon as we get a club here and a track to race, I'll worry bout competing with you and the other big boys. Till then, 5hp max on my bikes. Frames and stock kits cant really handle to much more than that without accelerated wear not to mention the weak rod to crank bearing and piston bearing. I wanna race, but we arent there yet in my area. The one fast engine i did build, roughly was 7-8hp, went by math. Little less probably. It wouldn't compete with the stuff you racers build. Was fun for the moment, but wasnt very streetable. Maybe one day we will have races here, and I'll be able to go out to lunch and get to know all y'all. One day maybe.


Addition: i think these guys that arent in the races, should read your post a few times. Especially the part on balancing. Stock cranks suck for balance when getting in the high rpms. An the tools to balance these tiny cranks cost about 100 bucks total, including scrap to make a balance stand. I only balanced one of these cranks. Usually i leave them alone, because im not racing, yet.