Coaster Brake Arm Removal

Mud Pie

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Dec 27, 2011
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Location
Cypress, TX
I did a search, but came up with nothing. Maybe my luck is hold true and this is only happening to me... :whistle:

I wanted to put on a Manic Mechanic sprocket adapter, but it appears they are out of operation for a while, mechanical problems or some such. Bikeberry.com has them listed as out of stock and do not anticipate any coming in any time soon (they are the ones that told me about MM's woes). An email sent to MM yielded no response.

So, after watching my brand new bike and engine kit sitting in the living room for 2 weeks now (and BOY is my wife happy about that little turn of events), I decided to put on the rag joint; I can always put the sprocket adapter on later. Yes, I'm aware that'll never happen, because if it runs, I'll never change it, I know myself better.

Anyways, when I tried to get the coaster brake arm off, I can not for the life of me get that nut to move. Is there some trick or tip that I'm missing ? I can't hold the arm in place while trying to turn the nut, I ran out of Popeye Spinach a while back. I was thinking of leaving the wheel in the frame, coaster clamp attached then trying to "pop" the nut, then remove the wheel to continue removal. Ain't a whole lotta room in there, I can easily see me doing that, then jamming the wheel in the frame... yep, that's my luck.

If there any "do this" advice that others are aware of ?

In addition, does anyone have any other sources for sprocket adapters besides Manic Mechanic/Bikeberry, at a decent price ? The whole concept of attaching the sprocket to the hub instead of the spokes seems so....intelligent, that I'd much prefer that route. Sure, the rag joints work, but I compare them to walking to California. It can be done, it has been done for hundreds of years, but someone a long time ago came up with a better way; flying.

:D
 
If it is that tight (which I've never seen) remove wheel and take a socket and a breaker bar (not a ratchet) and a piece of pipe, not a thick walled, one you can flatten out (a piece of top rail for a chain link works well) beat the pizz out of it, and slide over the arm, about a foot will do. Turn the breaker bar counter clockwise, while holding the pipe.

There is another way, as I do it if I have to. And that is using 2 combination wrenches, one for a cheater bar. Place first box end over the nut, and take the second box and hook it into the opened end of the first wrench, hold pipe and turn the nut off. I can do it this way by myself but for those not accustom to it a extra hand helps.

Leverage...man...leverage.
 
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yep, you need more leverage and make sure you're turning the nut the right way (counterclock wise)
I have never seen one THAT tight...the nut should be fairly easy to remove unless the nut is cross threaded.
 
I'll give the combo wrench a try, I have a toolbox full of 'em.

It just may be that I've found the weakest link in this project...

Me.

:D
 
Jam 2 nuts together on the other side of the axle. Put one wrench on the inside jam nut and one wrench on the nut holding the lever on.

*edit* it's also easier and safer for the nuts if you use the box-end wrench on the jam nut, leave it stuck between the hub and nuts until you get the other side apart.

*edit 2*
jam.JPG
 
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Thanks for the pic....and I notice we have something else in common...the Rii mini keyboard. I use one on my home theater PC, awesome keyboard, have both RF and Bluetooth models.
 
ha ha, i use one of them keyboards in my workshop for my cnc mill...only thing it doesnt do is "zoom" so i need the mouse with scroll wheel for that...


but yeah...ive never had trouble undoing a coaster brake. usually do it as you thought, in the frame. keep the arm secured, loosen outside nut, and then undo the nut in question... rotating in the direction the wheel rotates.


hopefully you are planning on replacing the arm once the sprockets mounted? its a necessary evil unfortunately, and may require...persuasion :giggle: to clear the sprocket bolts...
 
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