some people grind out the sprocket to fit over the grease cover me i just toss the grease cap but next time i think i will just cut the edges of the grease cover and try it that way i think some cover is better than no cover becase ive already had to take the wheel of and regrease it at about 400 miles . larry ca
1. Take off rear wheel.
2. Grap a big ole set of adjustable pliers & a thumb-buster
3. Put the thumb-buster (adjustable wrench) in the nut on top of the coaster brake arm leaving a little space between the arm and the wrench.
4. With the pliers squeeze the two together. Repeat as necessary. Be sure that you are turning the nut the right way (righty-tighty, etc)
5. The Nut should loosen up enough to be taken off with your fingers after about 2 squeezes.
6. Then take off the coaster brake arm, washer, dust cover, and Tah-Dah! Now you can put on the Sprocket.
7. Check my next post for More help with dust cover.
So you got the coaster brake arm off, and now (if you are like me on both of my builds) you are thinking, "well great, the sprocket doesn't fit over the dust cover!" Now what? Well you can have someone machine out the big hole in the sprocket so it fits over. You can pitch the dust cover. Or you can "fix it."
1. Take that dust cover to your bench grinder or dremel tool.
2. With a grinder, shave off the bottom lip until the dust cap is smooth around the bottom edge. (see pic - in photo it is already smoothed out. Sorry, no before pic).
3. When your have smoothed it all out clean it up and re-install on Top of the sprocket. Then put the washer, coaster arm, and nut back on.
4. Check the wheel to see if you have shaved enough off. The wheel should roll freely without the dustcap rubbing excessively on the sprocket.
5. If its ok, your ready to roll. If not, then shave a little more. If there is just a slight rub, this is ok. Take your bike for a pedal spin around the block and it should be all gone.
6. Last re-install everything and get on with the rest of the build.
7. Will try to attach photos (We'll see!)
Sunday night I took my 48 tooth down to the aerospace machine shop I used to work in. We made a fixture to bolt the sprocket to (scrap stock, drilled, tapped, helicoiled), we clamped it in the vise, dialed in the center hole, wrote a quick program, and Voila! The cnc mill went to work.
We opened up the bore to 1.735" which left about .005" per side for adjustment/trueing; it clears the vintage fifties bendix coaster hub's dust cover and it's equal all the way around, unlike when I try to do it with grinders and files in the busshop... All in all it took about a half hour...
I hoping like hell my parts come in to finish this baby before Sat/Sun. so I can go cruisin' wit augi before and after the annual seattle old bike swap meet.
It's gonna be a blast, no doubt there. I'm sure we'll have a lot to discuss!
I'm considering going back to work in that shop, though i haven't really done any machinist work in about six years...
I'm told by da' boys I used to work with that it's like riding a bike. It'll all come back in no time...
And I'll have use of machinery to do the occasional
"government" job (that's what we used to call our home projects being done on night shift) for my bikes...
So in working on this bike last night I realized that the clearance between the drive chain and the seat stay was nil. This frame is a 1963 Schwinn 'camelback' Speedster frame- 26"X1 3/8 Wheels, so I grabbed a 'spacer' to fit over the axle, between the wheel and the dropout. It's a piece of aluminum turned down and bored through. It worked! There's now clearance enough (I hope) to keep that drive chain from rubbing the seat stay.
There's a small part I have to grab for my clutch lever/cable assy., and the parts I'm waiting on- new exhaust pipe, carburator, and carb control cable.
I hope they come in today, so I can give 'er a go, and to make my minor adjustments and such...
Well gotta go I've got post holes to dig.
Later my fellow bike nuts...