Brakes Coaster brake fix

Discussion in 'Bicycle Repair' started by Large Filipino, May 21, 2008.

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  1. I made a small video on what my coaster brake on Cronus was doing.

    Man,on the road,that thing was making all KINDS of noises. At first I though my fender was off alignment or my engine moved from a loose torque strap or something and it was like I kept stopping to see if I can figure it out. Then my brakes would completely lock up whenever applied.

    I don't have any pics but taking it apart were talking effortless here. Basically the sprocket turns inside the hub and when pedaled backwards it spreads the metal pads to the drum if you will. Lack of grease there will just give you problems. Anyone can do this,really.

    So my fix was simply to pack that coaster brake assembly with bearing grease. Now it's like new again.

    So for those with the coaster brakes and you're having problems it's locking up it's dangerous bla bla bla,all that needs is GREASE every now and then.
    My bike is nearing 600 miles so I say I need to pack my coaster brake like I pack my bearings every 500 miles for adding an engine to a bicycle makes things go a bit harder on parts.

    But just do your maintenance more often like you're about to fly it and you'll be good to go.

    Sorry about the no pics of the grease packing. Really,just remove the axle,turn the sprocket counter clockwise till it comes off then you can just pack that hole with grease. I suppose you can further take it apart but the grease will get to where it's needed.

    Oh and don't forget to pack your wheel bearings while it's out there anyway.

    So that's my maintenance tip of the day!
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015

  2. nick7269

    nick7269 New Member

  3. I went with freewheeling my coaster today.

    This is old school. We did this a lot back in the day.

    It happened again. My Schwinn is China. Naw. I don't blame China.

    Cronus has done 800 miles already barely a month old.

    I've just come to the realization that a typical Coaster Brake is just not designed for sustained movement you get when you motorize your bike. The grease that your brake shoes depend on for a smooth stop just wears down with all the running I think.

    I mean the noises it was making and the brakes locking up and at times when I'm running even with pedaling you can feel that the coaster was slightly engaged straining my engine.

    So no more coaster. Hello Free Wheel. My front brake is just adequate. I need to scrounge for a good rear brake. Sadly my only choice is a side pull.

    Oh well.
  4. KilroyCD

    KilroyCD Active Member

    Large, what you have encountered can be fairly common with coaster brakes when they aren't quite adjusted right for motored bike use. I discovered this with the New Departure brake on my '46 Columbia. It was heating up , and that was because of the nut on one side being just a hair tight. It ended up locking up and actually kicking the pedals out from under my feet. I tore the down brake and repacked it, and through trial and error found the right adjustment that allowed the brake to stay cool even with extended riding. Yet it is not so loose as to cause excessive side to side play with the hub.
    Many of the Chinese brakes I've seen are knock offs of the old Bendix brake design. It's very simple, easy to service, but virtually no parts are available. If you want to lace a new coaster brake into the rim, try a New Departure, or better yet a Shimano. Plenty of parts are around for both, but ND is out of business, and has been for quite some time. Of course, Shimano is alive and kickin'. Remember, rear coaster brakes and motored bikes DO mix. Just look at the Whizzer.
    Of course, a caliper brake is the easiest and least costly way to go as long as you have a way to mount a rear caliper brake.
  5. The China coaster is weird. Where I placed the two washers for a freewheel there was this spring in there. It was all loose and it looked like it just sat there. Anyway you heard the sound it made on that video. This time around it was far far worst. That shreaking was louder and it had some clanging too. I think it was from that spring. Anyway when I converted it I removed that spring and it's quiet now.
    Maybe tomorrow I'll tear into it again and try the brake pads again without that spring. Frankly I don't see why that's even there... maybe it keeps the pads separated... but it sure didn't work.
    But tearing it apart would mean having to remove my sprocket again. Naw. I'll just look for a caliper. I kinda like the freewheel especially that I don't need the coaster arm any more.
  6. frameteam2003

    frameteam2003 Member

    Next time before lasing it in the rim how about drilling and taping the hub for a grease port.That way you can just use your grease gun.
  7. True that. For now I'm gonna keep it freewheel. I've been looking at some old coaster 20 inch rims laying around and it seems the inside hub is about the same size if not exactly. Maybe I'll look into just switching out the parts and keep the "drum" if you will.
    Yes,that tapping a hole for a grease port sounds like a must do thing for us.
  8. machiasmort

    machiasmort Active Member

    Hey LP,

    Funny enough, I did my first coaster brake today... Was sent to this site looking for help by Google and to your post.

    That spring thats in there, helps kick the two drum pads away from the clutch when you release pressure from the brake and when you start pedaling, the clutch engages the other side of the hub to lock it up so that the gear spins the rim.

    When your in freewheel mode with the rear coaster, that clutch kind of sits idle (between power and brake), or in your case the spring didn't totally disengage it from braking mode. Try stretching that spring a little if you still have it to make it kick back a little harder! I bet thats whizzers secret!

    Did you turn that thing into a freewheel without the brake? Did you use the washer idea from that previously mentioned post? Did it work???
    Last edited: May 6, 2009