S
Stryker
Guest
Heading out of town for the weak. I will post some goodies when i get back. It was amazing it barely removed the paint on the dewalt hole saw.
Thanks again for the advise
Thanks again for the advise
Xtrm84
New Member
It seems that a lot of models will require to grind out the sprocket, is this the case on most?
G
gone_fishin
Guest
most coasters? yes...
tho i did have an older bendix coaster that didn't need a larger center-hole, the current "shimano" and "hi-stop" models do.
tho i did have an older bendix coaster that didn't need a larger center-hole, the current "shimano" and "hi-stop" models do.
loquin
Well-Known Member
Xtrm84
New Member
Hmmm good Idea but think that you will then need to bend the arm back in to make it flush with the frame anyways.
Xtrm84
New Member
Ok, I FINALLY got the arm off and installed the rear sprocket but I pretty much know for a fact that I messed up my bearing adjustment and now it seems that the hub is kinda loose as well. Can I take this to a shop to fix for me?
G
gone_fishin
Guest
the bearing adjustment, sure, if you don't know how. buddy up to your local bicycle guy and he'll teach you 
meantime...avoid damaging miles if possible. do preventive re-greasing about every 200 miles...i've run the same coaster-hub for over 1200 miles with only a few adjustments being necessary. i tore the first one to pieces in only a few hundred, tho, while i learned the lessons
lou: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=4191
meantime...avoid damaging miles if possible. do preventive re-greasing about every 200 miles...i've run the same coaster-hub for over 1200 miles with only a few adjustments being necessary. i tore the first one to pieces in only a few hundred, tho, while i learned the lessons
lou: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=4191
H
Hollywood
Guest
What i do to save time is take my sprocket and dust cover to a local machine shop and have the sprocket bored out to a slip fit over the dust cover. Then i counter sink the sprocket holes out to fit flat head allen bolts that i get at the hardware store (6mm or 8mm what ever size you are using).By doing this you do not have to true up the sprocket because the dust cover will true up the sprocket to hub.I have found that the dust cover is true to the hub.The bolts will give clearance on the coaster brake arm.I have done this over ten times and it has worked great for me.
happycheapskate
Active Member
http://i46.tinypic.com/b9f6z8.jpg
It can be done without grinding out your sprocket, if you want the cog close to the spokes.
http://i45.tinypic.com/152kdxt.jpg
this is a high stop hub with an alex rim from Niagara Cycle Works.
It can be done without grinding out your sprocket, if you want the cog close to the spokes.
http://i45.tinypic.com/152kdxt.jpg
this is a high stop hub with an alex rim from Niagara Cycle Works.
olkoot
New Member
You Guys Need To Quit Bending Your Brake Arms! B4 Assembling The Sprocket Sandwich, Slightly Counter-sink The Bolt Holes In The Sprocket And Replace The Bolts With Flat Head Machine Screws. No Bending Or Welding Is Reauired And The Brake Arm Remains In The Stock Position.
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