Coaster brakes.. Oh boy

All4-1

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I was told while building this bike that the coaster brake would probably fail. I just really enjoyed the feel with it and felt I could transfer weight more efficiently.
Today the back wheel locked up- it snapped the drive chain and now won't even let me push the bike home without lifting the back wheel off the ground because the back wheel won't spin.

Is there really no good way to run a back pedal brake system? I want that more than anything but looks like I will have to mount a handlebar lever controlled brake- which I dont think would be as efficient and comfortable for my preference.

I have a few other bikes around and could pull the brakes off of them but my bike(hyper bike company cruiser) didn't come with friction brakes so id also have to figure out how to mount them

Has no-one found a way to reliably run coaster brakes? It just feels so much more intuitive to me.
I'm considering mag wheels but 150$ is pretty steep
Any suggestions to atleast get a few more months out of my rear wheel coaster setup?
 
I was told while building this bike that the coaster brake would probably fail. I just really enjoyed the feel with it and felt I could transfer weight more efficiently.
Today the back wheel locked up- it snapped the drive chain and now won't even let me push the bike home without lifting the back wheel off the ground because the back wheel won't spin.

Is there really no good way to run a back pedal brake system? I want that more than anything but looks like I will have to mount a handlebar lever controlled brake- which I dont think would be as efficient and comfortable for my preference.

I have a few other bikes around and could pull the brakes off of them but my bike(hyper bike company cruiser) didn't come with friction brakes so id also have to figure out how to mount them

Has no-one found a way to reliably run coaster brakes? It just feels so much more intuitive to me.
I'm considering mag wheels but 150$ is pretty steep
Any suggestions to atleast get a few more months out of my rear wheel coaster setup?
I have reliably ran a couple Walmart coaster brake rear wheels for a few years but the very first thing I did was disassemble the whole rear axle and degrease. After it was all cleaned I reassembled and packed the entire hub with Lucas Red & Tacky with a needle on my grease gun to totally fill the entire hub. I ran a gas bike and electric bike like this. I still have the working wheels I only switched them out for gears for pedaling and actually being able to contribute to the forward propulsion lol.
 
If anyone knows- I can't find it online about the gauge of spokes or material of the hoop.
Would these wheels ( stock hyper beach cruiser wheels) be able to hold up to 5hp+?
I ride pretty exclusively on the street- the worse thing I hit is a pothole a few inches deep of that- and about the circumference of a coffee can

I just don't have money or time to waste and my goal is extremely reliable A to B transport around 30 miles a day max and would like a max speed of 40mpg

I'm beginning to see the power to make the speed iant the problem. It's the bike being able to handle it

I'd luke to be able to go 200 miles with a 40mph top end and be able to do that every day for years ( atleast 30 or 40 miles per day but maybe a road trip or 2 here and there)
I see the rear wheel and the engine being in the same category of high maintenance and or high quality parts for high reliability

What would be best to do for a 26" rear wheel that I want to bolt right up to sprockets and brakes?

Should I just order 10/1× gauge spokes and a mounting hub for sprockets and brakes?

Or should I realistically be looking into wheels like the bikeberry 10 spoke rigid wheel?

Also, what is your opinion on the spring motor mount chain tensioner? If not them then what is the most recommended type?

I sure have my work cut out for me- to the point I'm having teouble sleeping
 
Would these wheels ( stock hyper beach cruiser wheels) be able to hold up to 5hp+? yes
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from a physics perspective the spokes only need to hold the tension of the centripetal force of the wheel rotating which is a = mv^2/r.
this is trivial and pretty much any wheel will be fine with that.

the force on the wheel is mainly the friction force as well as the normal force. the normal force points perpendicular up the wheel and the friction force is tangential to the wheel. the friction force is f = coef * normal force. the normal force = mg on flat ground.

actually somehow i think physics cant solve this problem so i give up. but yes, youll be fine.
 
Would these wheels ( stock hyper beach cruiser wheels) be able to hold up to 5hp+?
No, they won't...I own a Hyper Beach Cruiser, the rear coaster brake is designed for daily use at 11 MPH...im running an almost three HP with Zeda 80 motor on mine which has delivered 47 MPH...I recommend 30 to 35 MPH on any bicycle frame, these are not motorcycles, they are bicycles...Unless of course you have a death wish...lol.
What would be best to do for a 26" rear wheel that I want to bolt right up to sprockets and brakes?
Convert the wheels over to mags like i did with disk brakes...3 spoke disks are the strongest with hardly any flex which is good when running these mags on a motorised bicycle...Links for another thread where i gave the same advice and links to parts needed will be provided here below.
Or should I realistically be looking into wheels like the bikeberry 10 spoke rigid wheel?
NOT the ten spoke, they have a weakness where the spokes meet the rim and will crack apart causing injury or death in an accident, too much flex...Run the 3 spoke rims previously suggested for this reason.
Also, what is your opinion on the spring motor mount chain tensioner?
I eliminated the tensioner when i converted to mags by shortening the chain to fit, just like a motorcycle.
I sure have my work cut out for me- to the point I'm having teouble sleeping
Yes you do...DAMIEN



Pics of my Hyper Bike Company Beach Cruiser after the alterations...Totally reliable for almost a thousand miles now...not so much as a loose bolt...HINT...I use lock washers and blue locktite on most everything when assembling.

Take note that there is no tensioner on this.


Also you can read the entire thread from this point onward from link below to see what happened to this kid with his stock rear wheel with the coaster brake and spoke rims and the advice given by myself and others at this time.

 

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Coaster brakes on these need to be maintained regularly. An checked before every ride. I have no probs with mine. A different brake system is easier to maintain, the coasters will work though. You just have to be on top of maintenance for them to continue to work properly.
 
Coaster brakes on these need to be maintained regularly. An checked before every ride. I have no probs with mine. A different brake system is easier to maintain, the coasters will work though. You just have to be on top of maintenance for them to continue to work properly.
my goal is extremely reliable A to B transport around 30 miles a day max and would like a max speed of 40mpg
Hey Karl...As you can see by the OPs comment here, coaster brakes are definitely a no go for this guy with how he wants to run this bike...Is the same bike i have and the exact reason why i got rid of my coaster brakes and spoke wheels in favour of mags and disks...lol...The rear hub and coaster brakes on the Hyper, even after servicing them before ever riding it started heating up and acting up at speed...They just will not handle the stress...DAMIEN
 
I thought the only issue with coaster breaks was having to bend the Bendix arm. As a kid, we used to smoke our breaks on a steep hill, but I never had one seize up.
 
As a kid, we used to smoke our breaks on a steep hill, but I never had one seize up.
I will bet the bike you had as a kid wasn't motorised either...Coaster brakes just can't take the constant speed/heat stress put upon them with these things going four times the speed of a pedal pusher...lol...they are just not designed for what we do with them...DAMIEN
 
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