Compression meter says 0...

bike4life

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Now that i am off from skool, i figured i might bring back to life an old 2 stroke project from 2 years ago that i never finished, and took apart and just been in the scrap pile....

Well, it turns out after bolting the engine head to the cylinder body, and reading a compression meter, i get 0 psi..... I later used my thumb to block the air port, and i felt absolutely nothing when cranking the engine, maybe a tiny 0.0000001 Newtons of force from the air that i could just barely register on my fingers.... Yet the bolts were tight as possible...

Now, i torqued the bolts down max, and they are those acorn bolts, so it could be stopped early as they arent hex, so i will have to buy hex bolts, hopefully that will fix it???? If not new gasket??? What if i jb welded the cylinder to the head??? Bad idea thoughts????? lol IDK why compression is that low. Why did they have to sell it like that, way easier if it was casted as one piece, yeah its nice to maintenance and crap, but then you wouldnt have to worry about head leaks... Albeit the machining would be tougher....

Also, since it was in the scrap pile, the clutch assembly was seperated.... Does the sphereical marble go before the connector rod, or after. When i put mine in the hole first and then add the metal buckling bar, i cant screw in the clutch arm assembly as the plate sticks out 1/8". But if i put the tiny connector/buckling bar thing in first, and then put the little marble/ball bearing in the clutch arm's cam, it seems to fit fine and screws in??? Is this okay b/c i heard that the marble thing doesn't go into the cam/clutch arm housing...
 
Now that i am off from skool, i figured i might bring back to life an old 2 stroke project from 2 years ago that i never finished, and took apart and just been in the scrap pile....

Well, it turns out after bolting the engine head to the cylinder body, and reading a compression meter, i get 0 psi..... I later used my thumb to block the air port, and i felt absolutely nothing when cranking the engine, maybe a tiny 0.0000001 Newtons of force from the air that i could just barely register on my fingers.... Yet the bolts were tight as possible...

Now, i torqued the bolts down max, and they are those acorn bolts, so it could be stopped early as they arent hex, so i will have to buy hex bolts, hopefully that will fix it???? If not new gasket??? What if i jb welded the cylinder to the head??? Bad idea thoughts????? lol IDK why compression is that low. Why did they have to sell it like that, way easier if it was casted as one piece, yeah its nice to maintenance and crap, but then you wouldnt have to worry about head leaks... Albeit the machining would be tougher....

Also, since it was in the scrap pile, the clutch assembly was seperated.... Does the sphereical marble go before the connector rod, or after. When i put mine in the hole first and then add the metal buckling bar, i cant screw in the clutch arm assembly as the plate sticks out 1/8". But if i put the tiny connector/buckling bar thing in first, and then put the little marble/ball bearing in the clutch arm's cam, it seems to fit fine and screws in??? Is this okay b/c i heard that the marble thing doesn't go into the cam/clutch arm housing...

Ball bearing goes first then the bucking bar/rod

When you assemble it correctly check the Flower nut adjustment then?

 
In my honest opinion, JBW wouldn't allow you to hold the head torqued down enough :unsure:

Just get a new gasket and chop the heads off the acorn nuts

Is the piston even moving?
 
In my honest opinion, JBW wouldn't allow you to hold the head torqued down enough :unsure:

Just get a new gasket and chop the heads off the acorn nuts

Is the piston even moving?
yes i see it moving... with my eyes as the intake and exhaust are removed... I am going to go and cut off the bolts and torque it down 100% with the gasket... When i torque it down with the acorn, i can see gaps and the studs with my eyes, but they are tiny gaps but still which is why there is 0 psi, although i would have thought it would be like 5psi not 0, as they are tiny gaps.... So if that doesn't solve it, which i think it should, new hex bolts, and compression test, than i might think about jb weld.... There was a YT video of someone jb welding the head to cylinder on his car engine and it seemed to work...
 
Ya have to plug the intake and exhaust ports when checking compression right?
Otherwise all of the comperssion you're trying to test for, when you connect the compression tester, just flows right out the open ports, right?

Be sure your cylinder studs are fully seated then i would get net nuts with no head then torque'er down and see.
 
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