Confused

[gary55]

I wish they would just start using a wider bearing, and give us all a break with this stupid problem.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

One can, without taking the crank out if care and patience is used. I the side play is worrisome, one can cut 2 circular pieces out of a good steel coil spring that has slightly smaller diameter than rod journal - snap one piece onto journal on each side of rod to limit movement.

That sounds like a heck of a job. But worth looking into in the future since I don't see much chance of getting better engines in the UK/EU.

I wish they would just start using a wider bearing, and give us all a break with this stupid problem.

I wish too! Perhaps if we all wish hard enough at the same time?
**nnnnghhh!**

 

[gary55]

That sounds like a heck of a job. But worth looking into in the future since I don't see much chance of getting better engines in the UK/EU.

I wish too! Perhaps if we all wish hard enough at the same time?
And maybe cross our fingers, click our heels, and throw in a couple of hail Marys at the outside chance someone's really listening?

 

[Frankenstein]

Why not cross reference the bearing dimensions with bearing companies and find one that is thicker?

 

[crassius]

not really hard if you work carefully with just the top end off and journal turned to the top of case

 

[crassius]

Why not cross reference the bearing dimensions with bearing companies and find one that is thicker?

because it all depends on how well they press the crank cheeks together when they true the crank at factory - time consuming if you want it just right

 

[Frankenstein]

because it all depends on how well they press the crank cheeks together when they true the crank at factory - time consuming if you want it just right

Might be easier to stick a large washer between the bearing and the seat it goes into on the case. Maybe without taking it apart you can find/make a large enough snap ring you can install from the outside after pulling the seals.

I thought you could just put shims on the crank itself between the bearing and shoulders on the crank arms.

 

[gary55]

Why not cross reference the bearing dimensions with bearing companies and find one that is thicker?

There are 10x14x15"s to be found. The rod is 11.2 the bearing is 12.2 and the piston id is 16.9. So with a stock bearing, the rod walked on the big end to the left, the stock wrist pin bearing walked to the right you could have over 3mm of bearing hanging outside of the rod. with the 15mm bearing this wouldn't happen. These are extremes but the possability is there. This is the Zeda engine. Other engines do have wider small ends on the rod and come with 12.6 and 14.6 bearings.

 

[Frankenstein]

There are 10x14x15"s to be found. The rod is 11.2 the bearing is 12.2 and the piston id is 16.9. So with a stock bearing, the rod walked on the big end to the left, the stock wrist pin bearing walked to the right you could have over 3mm of bearing hanging outside of the rod. with the 15mm bearing this wouldn't happen. These are extremes but the possability is there. This is the Zeda engine. Other engines do have wider small ends on the rod and come with 12.6 and 14.6 bearings.

Ohhh, I thought we were talking about crank bearings not big end bearings, as far as those go I don't even think I wish to try to get involved..

 

[gary55]

Ohhh, I thought we were talking about crank bearings not big end bearings, as far as those go I don't even think I wish to try to get involved..

Nope talking about wrist pin bearings. Just threw in the big end ref. as it's a contributor to the prob. with it's lateral movement.