Conversion of Belt Drive, Bronze Bushing to Oilite Bushing

[Chainlube]

I'll think about sealed bearings after I test the Oilite solution. I think it
might be an easier solution for most users who may be hesitant about
removing material from the motor shaft, and more from the clutch
housing. It's complicated. FYI, the bronze flanged bushing that comes
with the kit makes contact with the clutch bell under the flange. But my
concentration now is testing what I designed. Right now, I'm not open to
any changes. I have to explore my concept with with testing.

Right on, it might be the only thing you need to do to it. If you ever need to change to a sealed bearing, make a step in the clutch housing to keep the bearing in place.

 

[Wrench]

Right on, it might be the only thing you need to do to it. If you ever need to change to a sealed bearing, make a step in the clutch housing to keep the bearing in place.

Yes the clutch only need one bearing on each side. The bearings are plenty strong enough no need for 6
Ya also gotta have a long spacer inside between the bearings ID races to support the bearings ID races

 

[Deleted Member 4613]

I suggest one of you could develop a sealed bearing approach but you need
to actually do it, not just talk about it. Buy the parts, and do it. Who here,
will commit to doing it?

 

[Wrench]

No thanks, I don't have a engine like yours so I don't need a clutch like yours.
If I did the clutch would already be modified with sealed bearings.

The reason I know so much about this is because that's the way my Whizzer clutch drum is set up.
My clutch mounts differently than yours but the concept of the sealed bearings Chainlube and I were talking about is the same.
Here's some pics of my Whizzer Clutch and Drum. Notice the step and inside and outside spacers to support the bearings inside race.

The clutch drum was designed this way but I had to Modify the other half and that's another story for another time for someone who needs to modify their Whizzer clutch from stock.

 

[Chainlube]

I suggest one of you could develop a sealed bearing approach but you need
to actually do it, not just talk about it. Buy the parts, and do it. Who here,
will commit to doing it?

I've already done that, wasn't a clutch though. The wheels on my cart had bearings that were too small, so a machined out the hubs to take larger ones.

 

[Deleted Member 4613]

It looks good, but can it be accomplished with ordinary hand
tools? I don't think so. This is way beyond what most people can do.
They would have to take the clutch bell to a machine shop. Very few
people would be interested in this approach, my opinion. If I move
on to a sealed bearing solution, only ordinary tools would be used
to make the mod. So there's no volunteers here to commit to
developing a sealed bearing solution. I guess I would be the
only one.

 

[Wrench]

It looks good, but can it be accomplished with ordinary hand
tools? I don't think so. This is way beyond what most people can do.
They would have to take the clutch bell to a machine shop. Very few
people would be interested in this approach, my opinion. If I move
on to a sealed bearing solution, only ordinary tools would be used
to make the mod. So there's no volunteers here to commit to
developing a sealed bearing solution. I guess I would be the
only one.

The sealed bearing solution has been done by many people, I hope you choose to improve it or your just another guy doing it the same way.
But I know that's only if ya don't like the way your Oilite bushing works.
I think ya did a good job with the hone and the Oilite is a big improvement. I'm pretty sure your gonna be happy with what you have accomplished
The friction of the spacer will be minimum. As your clutch shoes wear into the drum and make a groove for the pads the drum will have less contact to the spacer.

You say you want to offer an easy solution so anyone can do it with basic hand tools. Fine offer that solution. But you also can be unique and make one that's better for yourself. I thought you said you were a perfectionist?

Mike, No one was telling you to make a clutch with sealed bearings, Your the one that wanted to do that.
All the info provided of how to do that modification by chainlube and I is spot on and more correct than what had been done before.
Instead of a thank you for the information You decided to insult us

 

[Wrench]

Clutch Sealed bearing Modification Improved

OK I got solution for the bearing step in the boar. You'll have one bearing on each side of the boar instead of six stacked up
There is a reason for the step in the boar. It holds the bearings in place. Ya don't want the boar walking on the bearings OD

Hone out the boar for the sealed bearing OD.
Get a steel spacer the same OD as the bearing.
The length of the steel spacer will leave room for one bearing on each side of the boar.
Press the sleeve in the boar with sleeve loctite to lock it in place.
Press a bearing in on each side of the boar. DONE An easy solution so anyone can do it at home with basic hand tools
I've already explained and shown how to use spacers to support the bearings ID race.

Clutch Sealed bearing Modification Improved, Your Welcome

 

[Wrench]

I suggest one of you could develop a sealed bearing approach but you need
to actually do it, not just talk about it. Buy the parts, and do it. Who here,
will commit to doing it?

Maybe I'll buy a Clutch just to make this Improved Modification,
I'll post a Thread showing in detail how to do the Modification. So I can prove that it was my IDEA.
But, I'll let you have all the glory and show the world how to do it. You can pretend it was your Idea

I'm just joking These little mechanical design problems are easy, any one with half a can figure this stuff out
I don't like to brag but I've been seen using my other half of a in a machine shop

 

[Wrench]

I suggest not trying to use Sleeve Loctite to hold all 6 bearings in place.

Put a file groove spiral in the Sleeve OD so it can hold some Loctite.

And of course your gonna want a tight interference press fit for the sleeve and bearings