Convert currie 24v to 36v?? Newbie here.

[vanilla ice]

Is it possible to convert my 24v currie mongoose to 36v? What parts do I need to replace? Just the controller or the motor also? It is a 450 watt model.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

vanilla, contact your CURRIE vendor with your questions. sometimes there's a label on the equipment, stating maximum power recommended.

i have personally driven my CRYSTALYTE hub motor from 36v to 72v, with no adverse effects. the controller i used came with the hub, and was designed to be able to handle the 72volts. during operation, i would place my hand on the hub and the controller. there was only one incident when the hub became quite hot, and that was after a slow, steep climb.

i'm not advising you to do so, but you COULD increase to 30vdc. first, place your driven wheel off the ground(no-load), slowly apply power and monitor both hub and controller. monitor the situation for heat buildup, unusual noises and smells. if you pass this test, jump on your bike and pedal it on level ground. slowly apply power while pedal assisting,monitoring for the same unusual conditions. be sure you do not apply power from a standing still at this point. if all is going well, find a medium hill, get a running start, then apply power, using pedal assist. after 30 seconds of operation, get off the bike and touch the hub motor and controller. if either component is hot, pedal home without using hub motor. if the hub and controller is warm,do not apply power from a dead start to continue uphill.
if all goes well, it's up to you if you wish to continue testing with more voltage. you could attempt to do so at your risk. you could change to a higher-capacity controller which could handle 36v or 36-72v, and keep experimenting with more power. it's completely up to you. you are overstressing your equipment, so you should be willing to accept the consequences in the worst-case scenario.

 

[vanilla ice]

Thank you for the advice, I will try this with the stock parts. If they blow out I will replace them with uprated parts. I don't have much in to this, so I'm not too worried.

I got a deal I couldn't refuse on a display model bike a few days ago, but the batteries are kinda flat and its missing some parts. I guess its been displayed for a couple years with no charge. Looks like it will fit either 3 or 4 12v SLA 12 ampers instead of the stock 2. If it deals with 36v ok, I'll use 3. If not, I'll use 4 in 2s2p. Or should I even try for 48? I'd think not on a 24v setup?

Anyways, as long as I'm replacing batts, I figured its the right time to up the voltage. I went for a test ride last night with the half dead batts and everything seems to be working well. I fitted a speedo and got 14mph but I'd like 20 at the very least.

The controller feels like it hits a limiter at 14mph. Is the voltage causing this limit or is it some sort of controller speed limiter? If it turns out I a new controller or motor I think I'll buy a used 36v scooter and scavenge parts. At the prices used scooters go for its cheaper than buying new components. I guess parents just want to get rid of them when the batts go out?

 

[vanilla ice]

Just a note for anybody out there looking for information on this topic- Check out endless sphere forums. There are people there who have both successfully overvolted currie "450w" motors to 36v and also a guy who has burned his up. Turns out the "450w" Currie models use 250w motors at 24v with 30a controllers. Works out to 720 watts, thats a lot more wattage than you would think a 250w motor could take.

Anyway, lots of good electric information there.

MBC EDIT: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=54474&postcount=5

Also a few picture tutorials on cooling modifications for these small motors... great stuff.

 

[vanilla ice]

FYI the "450 watt" Currie bike's motors are rated at 250 watts by the motor manufacturer, but this may be a continuous operation rating (MY1018Z motor). With the stock 30 amp Currie supplied controller, the bikes actually are running at 720 watts going in to the motor at peak current- that is stock!

The Currie supplied controller is good for up to 40 volts. A few users with simple cooling modifications have done 30 to 36 volts with no problems (900 to 1080 watts!!). However if you hold it wide open for extended periods of time at 36v you can fry the motor. So care with the throttle is required when you raise the voltage on stock components.

 

[_harbor_]

thanks ive been looking for information about that a while now and this is the first ive run into appreciate it.

 

[vanilla ice]

Yeah, I've since tried 42v with no luck. The throttle does not function at all so I went back to 36. If you've got the same ananda controller that mine has, it seems 36v is the limit. You may want to hook up a mini-DMM to keep an eye on your voltage and make sure it doesn't go down past 30 or so. Otherwise you could damage your batteries by over discharging them. The low voltage cut out is set around 20v so it will not function correctly with 36v of batteries. I've got my escoot up to 54v from the standard 24v with no issues. Its too bad the currie controller won't take more than +50%.

Also, I have swiss cheesed my motor casing with a drill. I think this may be why my motor is still alive at ~1250W input. It does get very hot on hills even with the holes (the stock ananda controller is around 35 amps). Cooling mods to the geared unite 1018 are well documented on endless sphere. I plan on using a blower when I figure out how to mount it. That should tame the heat.

 

[_harbor_]

i read quite a bit over there at endless sphere and it was definately worthwhile.

what ive learned is you dont necessarily have to shell out the $500+ for a decent kit just to go and adequately fast as well.

agreed the bike does cost $300 now at the "mart" so thats still an investment but the bike they are currently selling while different then yours somewhat ( battery location,brand etc.. ) is basically the same bike with room for an additional battery pack if you were to so choose ( if im wrong ? please correct me ) OR maybe there is some room over there for additional battery hacking instead muhaha

im currently really intrigued by these dewalts batteries etc.. and just wonder if maybe that could be adapted and applied here etc.. ( you would loose a LOT of weight and gain distance )

another thing thats got my head hummin is these replacement motors im finding that are rated in 400/600 speed or torque / or a whopping 1000w ( this is the one im SURE that you would be interested in ) they are much more smartly designed ( fins for cooling ) and much higher output at the same voltages good/bad ? direct bolt on item right ?

 

[sabrewalt]

Anyone up for inventing a Dewalt blackbox for Ebikes

Anyone up for inventing a Dewalt blackbox for Ebikes

Something that would accept up to 4 STOCK 36 Volt Dewalt packs and you could configure it parallel or serial parallel. IE 36 V X 4packs or 72 volts x2packs.

I would buy it.

 

[vanilla ice]

I think the market is too small to make any money producing Dewalt racks. You can diy it though as some people already have. Some plastic, some machining, some switches. A guy on ES just posted pics of his recumbent Dewalt rack....

I had a good post here replying to harbor, but it somehow got deleted.

Anyway, no the bigger unite motors are not a bolt on for my bike. The pedaled chain is the way. But you can run 1000 watts through the stock 250 motors if you're careful. I have some other ideas on how to get to 1500W with a brushless chain drive setup though. Then at the other extreme theres 5000 series xlytes take up to 5000W.

I just bought a 48v controller, maybe I'll throw it on the Currie next week and what happens.