Cool idea (my current bike project)

Will'smotobikes19

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I want to ride. Going to go to the shop tomorrow and see if I can have some custom wheels made. A hybrid between cruiser steel rims and spokes with mountain bike hubs is what I’m looking for. I want some type of steel hubs too since someone said the alloys aren’t strong enough for 12g. Tires should be here but they’re taking their time.
 


Will'smotobikes19

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And while 12g spokes are nice to have, they honestly aren't necessary.
Do you still think the same thing? Kit engines don’t pull on spokes they pull the hub, unless it’s the crappy rag mount. Have you ever had a belt drive motorized bike?
 
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JerboaJohn

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tell the shop 3 cross pattern for the spokes Box store bikes always only have 2 cross for cheapness.
 

Will'smotobikes19

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Wondering if it will work for the gebe sheave. I do have one for 12 gauge. I found a complete wheel that will work for the rear but I’m going to have to get him to build a front wheel. I see a hub with disc mount, and 254mm long spokes work with it. I want both rims 26x 2.125. Going to get chrome wheels.
 

The_Aleman

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Do you still think the same thing? Kit engines don’t pull on spokes they pull the hub, unless it’s the crappy rag mount. Have you ever had a belt drive motorized bike?
Yup, my own thinking hasn't changed. TBH, I'm not the type who would motorize a Walmart bike to begin with, and I think I still could have made 14g spokes work with a sheave in your case. I ran a ragmount for 4 years and well over 10K miles, as well as a kit idler, and never had problems with either. Never once even burned out a chinagirl clutch. I've owned old stuff that I had to fix myself my whole life, so I tend to be careful with it.

As I've said tho, I've never run a sheave, so me making work what you didn't is just conjecture on my part. As far as belt drives, I have to admit I've never run a full-belt-drive bike. I have a Honda-style 4G, which is belt-drive and been on the same belt for 7 years and ~10K miles, but it's on a system that also has 3 additional chains.

I don't recommend steel rims, not even on a pedal bike. They are heavy, prone to bend, and will rust inside out. They totally suck with rim brakes if you happen to run them. If you want a strong wheel, get a double-wall downhill-rated aluminum wheel, whatever hub you're gonna use, and have it built with some 12g Sapim spokes if you want serious business. It's what I did and I had em laced 4-cross. 4-cross may not fit your sheave's mounting points tho.
 

curtisfox

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Yup, my own thinking hasn't changed. TBH, I'm not the type who would motorize a Walmart bike to begin with, and I think I still could have made 14g spokes work with a sheave in your case. I ran a ragmount for 4 years and well over 10K miles, as well as a kit idler, and never had problems with either. Never once even burned out a chinagirl clutch. I've owned old stuff that I had to fix myself my whole life, so I tend to be careful with it.

As I've said tho, I've never run a sheave, so me making work what you didn't is just conjecture on my part. As far as belt drives, I have to admit I've never run a full-belt-drive bike. I have a Honda-style 4G, which is belt-drive and been on the same belt for 7 years and ~10K miles, but it's on a system that also has 3 additional chains.

I don't recommend steel rims, not even on a pedal bike. They are heavy, prone to bend, and will rust inside out. They totally suck with rim brakes if you happen to run them. If you want a strong wheel, get a double-wall downhill-rated aluminum wheel, whatever hub you're gonna use, and have it built with some 12g Sapim spokes if you want serious business. It's what I did and I had em laced 4-cross. 4-cross may not fit your sheave's mounting points tho.
You should try a belt drive sometime, been a standered for years, I had a Monark in the 50’s loved it, Whizzer has had them for years. Seems kind of funny, all was good till along came china junk. LOL? I welded a crank sprocket right to a coaster brake hub, back in the 50’s with a small wheel sprocket on jack shaft, bike chain. 1 1/2 hp did 25 mph. .......Curt
 

Will'smotobikes19

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I really like the Subaru motor. The steepest hills I never had to walk beside the bike. Would keep going a few mph the whole way up. I got decent excercise. I know for a fact I’d have to walk beside it without the motor. I finally found a rear wheel that will take a thread on sprocket cluster with a steel rim and 12g spokes.
 

Will'smotobikes19

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Once I get the pair of matching wheels I’m going to get the bike shop guy to true both of them with the tires on and the drive sheave if he can. I’m also wondering if I can wax the belt to get a little more life out of it.
 

The_Aleman

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You should try a belt drive sometime, been a standered for years, I had a Monark in the 50’s loved it, Whizzer has had them for years. Seems kind of funny, all was good till along came china junk. LOL? I welded a crank sprocket right to a coaster brake hub, back in the 50’s with a small wheel sprocket on jack shaft, bike chain. 1 1/2 hp did 25 mph. .......Curt
Oh man, I've wanted to, I've just been unfortunate to not have a frame that will do mid-drive and belt. Always wanted a Whizzer engine. Also liked the GEBE system even when that was the subject of some wannabe revolution in this place (old timers might remeber the "solution") and until recently I haven't had a bicycle that I'd put a rackmount on. That's gonna change here soon, although prolly going friction.

Funfact: first time I met MBR in person back in the summer of '08 he had a friction-drive Subaru EHO35 bike with over 20k miles on it. It was actually pretty quick to 28, and he's an ace pedaler.
 

curtisfox

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Friction drive are fun I have one that was made back in the 60’s , but need dry heather like you do out there. Mine has certifical clulutch, and a lift lever......Curt
 
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