Copper Gaskets: Where to purchase extra thin or assorted sizes?

yuckfoo

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I need a gasket that is thinner than 0.5 mm. I want to buy a 0.3 mm or a package of assorted sizes. Most gaskets I see for sale make no mention of the thickness. Any links are appreciated.
 
.5mm is about .020"th and .3mm is about .010"th of an inch.
Just search the size thickness in inches (thousandth) copper sheet ya want and order it.
Ace Hardware will probably have a pack of copper sheet in the size ya want on the shelf
Now you'll have to cut out your own gaskets. if ya got a Dremell tool with a thin cut off blade that will work . Just support the cut with a thin piece of wood so the foil don't get bent during cutting.

I'm a pro at cutting out copper head gaskets .016"th and .020"th
In these pics I explain how to make Whizzer M/B 4 stroke flathead head gaskets.
Use some of my methods to cut out your 2 stroke head gaskets they should be alot easier to make



 
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I've already taken off almost 2.0 mm from my head. The compression I'm going to get now is already going to be WAY better than if I never knew anything about squish in the first place. Waiting on parts to come in the mail, sanding for hours.... is it really going to be worth it to get my squish from 1.50 (or more) to 0.75 - 0.95? This is taking way too long. I'm starting to think that most of the benefits of this crap is just in people's imaginations. (Or I'd like to believe that because this s**t is taking far too long to finish. 😆)
 
I've already taken off almost 2.0 mm from my head. The compression I'm going to get now is already going to be WAY better than if I never knew anything about squish in the first place. Waiting on parts to come in the mail, sanding for hours.... is it really going to be worth it to get my squish from 1.50 (or more) to 0.75 - 0.95? This is taking way too long. I'm starting to think that most of the benefits of this crap is just in people's imaginations. (Or I'd like to believe that because this sh*t is taking far too long to finish. 😆)
Higher compression also means higher heat and the possibility of having to change the timing. How bad can the stock squish really be? How much better is it now that I've improved it by almost 2.0 mm? Who knows. I wouldn't be the least bit surprised to find out that two identical motors, one with 2.3 mm squish and one with .95 squish run almost exactly the same except the one with "better" squish runs hotter and creates the need to mess with timing.
 
I need a gasket that is thinner than 0.5 mm. I want to buy a 0.3 mm or a package of assorted sizes. Most gaskets I see for sale make no mention of the thickness. Any links are appreciated.
It's always easier just to order gaskets

I made my own because it's not too hard for me
I make em fit better and it's alot cheaper
To buy a Whizzer copper head gasket is $16 per gasket and it cost me about $2 per gasket to make em
When I make gaskets I make alot of gaskets, enough for a life time :LOL:
 
Higher compression also means higher heat and the possibility of having to change the timing. How bad can the stock squish really be? How much better is it now that I've improved it by almost 2.0 mm? Who knows. I wouldn't be the least bit surprised to find out that two identical motors, one with 2.3 mm squish and one with .95 squish run almost exactly the same except the one with "better" squish runs hotter and creates the need to mess with timing.
Yes more compression means more heat.
I'm not a 2 stroke guy but your port work will be important.
Maybe @Street Ryderz will chime in and have some advice for you
 
I've already taken off almost 2.0 mm from my head. The compression I'm going to get now is already going to be WAY better than if I never knew anything about squish in the first place. Waiting on parts to come in the mail, sanding for hours.... is it really going to be worth it to get my squish from 1.50 (or more) to 0.75 - 0.95? This is taking way too long. I'm starting to think that most of the benefits of this crap is just in people's imaginations. (Or I'd like to believe that because this sh*t is taking far too long to finish. 😆)
Patience Grasshopper, anything that is worth doing, is worth doing right.
 
Higher compression also means higher heat and the possibility of having to change the timing. How bad can the stock squish really be? How much better is it now that I've improved it by almost 2.0 mm? Who knows. I wouldn't be the least bit surprised to find out that two identical motors, one with 2.3 mm squish and one with .95 squish run almost exactly the same except the one with "better" squish runs hotter and creates the need to mess with timing.
For squish to be effective it has to be tighter than .8 of a mm so the standard is .7, what it does is push the gasses away from the outer edge of piston and into the combustion chamber (center) this prevents detonation and cools the pistons crown and also ensures better/full combustion of each charge which means more usable power from each cycle. Your two identical engines one with proper squish and one without will not perform the same, the one without squish will run hotter and if used with prolonged wot will most likely over heat then have detonation issues. The timing is fixed (non adjustable) for the most part, though there are ways to slightly alter it's base timing and use a better cdi for less advance as rpm climb, guys that build highly modified engines will go to this trouble when they want to sustain high rpm use over longer periods.Cutting 2mm off the head will increase the compression some but not enough to do any harm or worry about, these engines stock only have 6:1 compression ratio and that's not high at all, with 2mm removed you may have bumped it up to 7:1 or slightly higher but still not considered high compression.
 
For squish to be effective it has to be tighter than .8 of a mm so the standard is .7, what it does is push the gasses away from the outer edge of piston and into the combustion chamber (center) this prevents detonation and cools the pistons crown and also ensures better/full combustion of each charge which means more usable power from each cycle. Your two identical engines one with proper squish and one without will not perform the same, the one without squish will run hotter and if used with prolonged wot will most likely over heat then have detonation issues. The timing is fixed (non adjustable) for the most part, though there are ways to slightly alter it's base timing and use a better cdi for less advance as rpm climb, guys that build highly modified engines will go to this trouble when they want to sustain high rpm use over longer periods.Cutting 2mm off the head will increase the compression some but not enough to do any harm or worry about, these engines stock only have 6:1 compression ratio and that's not high at all, with 2mm removed you may have bumped it up to 7:1 or slightly higher but still not considered high compression.
I'm just about out of room on that head. I suppose I should move on to sanding down the top of the jug? What are your thoughts on not using a head gasket?
 
Patience Grasshopper, anything that is worth doing, is worth doing right.
Well I'm all about doing it right. The trouble is, this hobby has very few scientifically proven ideas associated with it. People tend to do things because everyone else does it. Nothing is sure except that the opinions are popular. I'm not arguing that squish isn't a thing, I just have to wonder if it's actually important for people who aren't racing bikes. And lets say it is. All the advice you get through forums and videos and written word seems to be based on tradition or accepted practice but with no clear cut methods or proof to come with it.

What's the right way to go about this now? I've taken about all I can take off the head. Should I remove material from the top of the jug now to get me where I'm trying to go? What are you thoughts on not using a gasket?
 
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