The tubing was far from round anyway lol. If it wasn't a cruiser frame I probably would have found another way but the triangulation at the front of the frame takes some stress off the down tube. At least that's how I see it. This frame is actually pretty heavy wall compared to other frames I have cut up. Wouldn't be the first motorized bike that the frame cracked on me lol.
That's not a typical problem area on a cantilever frame, anyway. That's usually the downtube behind gooseneck and the cantilevers themselves, often aft of the seat-tube. You've tied the cantilevers together up front and redone the dropout-to-stay connection. Looks like it should do!
Signed, someone who's also cracked a few frames LOL
I'm hoping I have enough room for an electrical/battery box to be mounted somewhere clean like that. I would love to put a full light kit and electric start on my briggs build, and would also add the charge coil and magnet flywheel to maintain voltage.
I was thinking of putting a battery box in the tank but I also have more electrical stuff like a relay ti hide. There is always a place to hide stuff, you just have to find it lol. On one of my old bikes I made a compartment under the seat that wasn't very noticeable.
Think I may be done with primer yay! Beautiful day today! 70° with a light breeze and some passing clouds. Wish the primer didn't take 12 hours to fully cure. Have to sand it because a have I few runs and some sanding scratches. Can't wait for the next nice day over 60°. Need that or higher to spray the paint.
While waiting for the primer to dry I started on the new brake lever. The Sun dual pull works great but need to hook up the brake light switch and can't figure out how to do it cleanly with that lever. Picked up a 4 finger(yuck) sun lever so it matches the clutch lever. Cut it, heated it and bent it to make a 2 finger lever. Still have to make the plate for the barrels and make the micro switch fit. Also have to shape the end a bit.