crank seal

[zippinaround]

Did you get the "2RS" seals with the lips off eBay UK, as per Headsmess' suggestion? He said that the stock ones suck because they lack lips. I have not ordered mine yet but I intend to use these from the start.
45u suggested a Grubee spare, mag side seal retaining plate type-of-thing, that you can order from the USA if the lipped seal doesn't hold up on its own.

I havent ordered those seals yet , trying to find somewhere a bit cheaper , was thinking of maybe fabbing one of those plates but now i think piston rings are worn since its leaking smoke , the previous one i just smeared with molyso4 grease until i can find somewhere that sells seals locally

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

I havent ordered those seals yet , trying to find somewhere a bit cheaper , was thinking of maybe fabbing one of those plates but now i think piston rings are worn since its leaking smoke , the previous one i just smeared with molyso4 grease until i can find somewhere that sells seals locally

Okay, this seems like the same seal as the eBay listing (someone please confirm) but the price once vat is added would be about the same.
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Se...Oil-Seal-with-Garter-Spring/product_info.html

 

[zippinaround]

I meant locally as in near my house thanks tho that is the exact same seal even from same place i believe , i have very little money so will have a look in a few shops in town maybe an agri supply shop might have something similar , but can anyone confirm if exhaust is leaking from the seal my rings must be gone right , there shouldnt be any exhaust in the crankcase

 

[gary55]

Since you say the seals are popping out I am guessing that the prob. is not the type of seals, but one of the following. 1 If you have exhaust gases coming from the crank case the blow by pressure is popping them out. 2 the float needle is not seating so the crankcase is getting flooded, and you can't compress fluid. 3 as Crassius said in reply 28 bad bearings eat seals like a great white. The bad bearings probably wouldn't make them pop out, just leak, so 1 or 2 are most likely. No matter what seal you get it is not going to hold up to any of these problems. Till you find the cause your just buying seals to throw away.

 

[zippinaround]

the problem is on two different engines , the one i originally posted about seems fine for now , its the second one thats blowing exhaust from the magneto side , does this mean the piston rings are gone or the jug is scratched? The bearings seem fine i removed the small drive gear and the magnet and there was no play so i will check the carb for gunk if its clean will have to open this one up check the rings etc.

 

[gary55]

Again just a guess. I'll bet you 1 jug to 4 crank seals when you pull the head your gona see a scored cylinder wall.

 

[zippinaround]

Ok so i popped the head removed cylinder found some metal shavings on the piston fairly deep scratches on the cylinder , is the rule generally if you can feel it with your nail its too deep? I also notice the con rod has a lot of slop aswell as the piston at the other end how much is acceptable? My thinking would be the less the better?

 

[gary55]

Time for a new top end, or new engine. If you do top end only you need to flush the case thoroughly. Remove the magnet from the magneto side cause it magnetizes the crank weights so metal sticks to them, and is hard to flush out. I pull the engine, flush 2 with gas. Then flush upside down with pressure nozzle on garden hose. Blow it out. flush with oil fuel mix. then rebuild. Before removing engine bring rod up till crank is at TDC and hold weight with fingers. Try to move the rod up and down while holding weights from spinning. If the rod moves and you detect play in the rod to crank bearing it's new engine time.

 

[butre]

I love my harbor freight impact wrench!!! Changed the rear struts on my 95 chevy Lumina yesterday, worked excellent!!!

who needs impact wrenches when you have a box wrench and a hammer? if that don't work, it needs heat to come off anyway.

 

[zippinaround]

Time for a new top end, or new engine. If you do top end only you need to flush the case thoroughly. Remove the magnet from the magneto side cause it magnetizes the crank weights so metal sticks to them, and is hard to flush out. I pull the engine, flush 2 with gas. Then flush upside down with pressure nozzle on garden hose. Blow it out. flush with oil fuel mix. then rebuild. Before removing engine bring rod up till crank is at TDC and hold weight with fingers. Try to move the rod up and down while holding weights from spinning. If the rod moves and you detect play in the rod to crank bearing it's new engine time.

Time for a new top end, or new engine. If you do top end only you need to flush the case thoroughly. Remove the magnet from the magneto side cause it magnetizes the crank weights so metal sticks to them, and is hard to flush out. I pull the engine, flush 2 with gas. Then flush upside down with pressure nozzle on garden hose. Blow it out. flush with oil fuel mix. then rebuild. Before removing engine bring rod up till crank is at TDC and hold weight with fingers. Try to move the rod up and down while holding weights from spinning. If the rod moves and you detect play in the rod to crank bearing it's new engine time.

doesnt seem to be any up down movement but a bit of side to side , it seems the piston moves a lot side to side could that be the wrist pin bearing or is that normal?