Crankin' It - Mid-Mounted Crank Drive

DrkAngel

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Dec 18, 2012
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Location
Upstate NY
For years now, I have been considering a mid-mounted freewheel crank drive.
Running a geared reduction motor through the 7 speed freewheel sprocket, or freehub cassette.
Most any bike could be converted, adding less than 10lbs of motor hardware. (Battery additional.)

Stage 1.
Typically, this involves using a geared reduction motor connected through the front chainring.

A big improvement over most any type eBike drive!
With a 11-34T 7spd freewheel you can have the equivalent of a 7 speed motorcycle, with +300% the torque at low speed.
Great low speed torque and high speed assist ... right to 30mph(?) ... from the same motor!

Stage 2.
An important option is a 2 chainring freewheel crank.
This allows motor power without pedals being turned ... much safer!

There is the variable of matching motor to pedal speed.
The size of the 2 chainrings can be varied, and / or voltage adjusted, to match your rhythm.

Stage 3.
The next stage option is a freewheel sprocket, instead of a fixed sprocket on the motor, this allows easy pedaling when motor not engaged.

My project motor is the Unite MY1018z gear reduction motor.
I've poked-prodded-tested and tried this model for ~20,000 miles.
As a demonstration,
I graphed the speed and torque available from running the motor through the 7 speed sprockets.

MY1018z motor @24V w/9T sprocket
At 24V Low gear (34T) will give you great power-acceleration till 7mph, great for the worst hills.
Then, there are a variety of optimal hill climbing, or acceleration, choices till about 16mph.
Of note is that a 34-13T would limit maximum speed to the "legal" 20mph.

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I just finished purchasing the individual components and will continue to post build reports.
 
Motor Frewheel

Previous graph is for the MY1018z 24V motor with the OEM 9T sprocket.

Stage 3.
In order to operate pedals without using the motor the use of a freewheel sprocket on the motor is required.
The smallest compatible freewheel sprocket I've found is a 13T.
Of course, this will vary the motor applied speed noticeably.

MY1018z motor @24V w/13T sprocket

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Sadly, this loses much of the low speed torque advantages of a multi-speed mid-drive, might be OK on a 20"er?
On the other hand...
In lowest gear as I am accelerating from a red light, I hit 10mph at my max pedal speed.
So I would be shifting right at maximum torque of motor and pedal assist, maybe ... not so bad.

Personally, I could be happy with a 9T sprocket with motor always engaged and pedal assist.
Optimally shifting at a more casual 60-70 pedal rpm.
A larger chainring from the motor can offset some of this loss.
With an intermediate jackshaft, most any gear ratio can be accomplished.

Stay tuned for more developments ...
 
Crank Drive Build #1 - Stage 2

Components:
Huffy dual-suspension mountain bike
Dual chainring freewheel crank (40T/40T will change after testing)
33.3V 25.92Ah 9s12p homemade recycled Lipo battery
Unite MY1018z 24V (450w) gear reduction motor w/9T sprocket (624w@33.3V)

MY1018z motor @ 33.3V though DNP 34-11T 7spd Freewheel
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I think this to be nearly ideal for my 1st trial
90rpm pedal speed looks to match optimal shift points at full throttle
Partial throttle can move optimal shift points towards a more casual 60rpm.

Low gear torque is excellent, and top motor only speed looks to be ~26-27mph
Lowering seating profile or moderate pedal assist should make 30mph possible.
 
Stage 4.
Important, IMO, is the survivability of the drive train!
Shifting under throttle will produce a (un)healthy "clunk" ...
an impact on all drive train components: motor > chain > chainring > chain > 7spd freewheel > hub

This "damage" can be moderated by not shifting while under throttle, release throttle before shifting then gradually re-engage.
This works but kinda degrades performance ... substantially!

So, I propose the addition of a heavily sprung idler roller.
Place behind the chainring, pushing chain down, roller should be ~ 50% sprung under full throttle.
Instead of a shift inducing a straight line immediate impact the "impact" will be spread over the unsprung distance the idler provides.
"Impact" might be reduced 90%(?), providing a great increase in durability-reliability!

- $4.74

Surprising to most, there is minimal abuse or wear on the Bottom Bracket!
With motor positioned in front of the BB, motor to BB abuse is evenly offset by BB to wheel abuse.

The exception being the crank freewheel bearing which must endure a constant twisting, worse under heavy throttle.
This "twisting" abuse could be largely eliminated.
The use of an intermediate jack shaft positioned directly behind the BB, (if there is room), inside the wheel chain path, would even up the stress on the freewheel crank bearing.

But, of course, doing this would apply greater stress on the BB bearing ...
 
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Crank Drive - Parts-n-Such

Some Components:

SunRace 13-34T MegaRange - $16.99 shipped


DNP Epoch 7spd 30-32 to 11T Freewheel - $34
Upgrades EZip w/44T Front Sprocket to near 30mph pedal assist (90 crank rpm)

More sizes - 11- 28,30,32,34T - $32

Quality ACS Freewheel for freewheel crank! $16.50
BCD not specified ... might bolt directly to certain chainrings?

Also available _ more components, from Staton-inc.com

Freewheel Cranks - Choices ... >$32



450w 24v, gear reduction motor, standard 1/2" x 1/8" chain (MY1018Z) - $95 + shipping


The "silent" motor (well ... not real loud)
XYD-16 motor w/mounting bracket - $108.89 - Will try to find working link


Bikemotive.com
Sickbikeparts.com
 
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I haven't had a positive outcome with the low cost freewheel design as shown in your post photo. They chop out rather quickly with excessive bearing freeplay.
 
Freewheel cranks

Got 1, then got a spare.
These are some unknown items with original source unknown, so don't ask me.

Got a double chainring, then a discount on a single.
All 3 chainrings are 40T, ... OK for initial trials.
They have an offset so that there is a nice spacing, but with a single, flipped over, chain is positioned directly over the center of the freewheel. This should eliminate the "twisting" stress common with the doubles and greatly extend usable life.

file.php

I believe I will try the single ...
Positioning the motor sprocket in front of and below the chainring, I will stretch, or lengthen the chain around a single path, ensuring a ~120 degree motor sprocket contact.

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Freewheels are the Pheasant brand ... the equivalent of what we would call a turkey ... but I have an ACS Crossfire for when it fails.
 
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