I would start with re-doing the clutch adjustment...Note in pic number #1 the postion on your clutch actuator arm.
Forgot to mention, I took the arm / rod apart and readjusted the alignment because it made more sense for the angle of the cable. However the arm was VERY close to the carb when fully pulled so I just took it apart and realigned it all.
Be sure on the other side where the clutch actuator rod fits into the case cover that it is grease in its housing where it pivots back and forth as well and do the same with the straight bucking bar that the actuator arm pushes in...you want a dab of grease on both ends of that bar to minimise wear not only to the bucking bar contact point with the actuator but also the other end where it comes into contact with the steel ball bearing inside the casing...Now see if that doesnt help things out a little...Remember that when your done, with the clutch lever released, you want to see your clutch arm in the same position asmine in my pic.
Thanks for the advice... I have done this a few times now. I'm using Castrol MP (what I had lying around).
Same grease I used on the gears, most of it has flown off of the gears at this point so I'll probably follow your suggestion and grab some lucas red next time I'm in town.
Lets at least start with the basic clutch adjustment first...with the clutch lever totally released, do the cable end adjustment to match mine in the pics so it runs in a fairly straight line not so far inward as your is.
Now after that is done, Pull the clutch lever in and lock it in place whilst you adjust the flower nut on the right hand side of the engine where those clicky gears of yours are at...I ususally have it tight enough where the rear wheel won't turn freely at all and then back it off a notch at a time until the rear wheel will turn without any clutch resistence...Then put the lock screw back in place to keep it locked in place.
I wish I would have done this when I first did the kit... clutch is much better adjusted now, the 3rd click on the clutch handle actually works..
So I did notice while doing this that with the clutch disengaged, the large gear has a lot of play both in and out (along shaft direction) and back and forth (towards smaller drive gear). I uploaded another video, it's kind of hard to see but it's definitely visible. I haven't taken the clutch plate completely off yet to look into anything further but if you think I should I can do that easily. No idea if this amount of play here is normal or not.
Thanks for the help so far.
(picture is clutch engaged, no cable tension. Video is clutch disengaged, on 3rd notch on the handle).
