crankshaft play on new engine

I would start with re-doing the clutch adjustment...Note in pic number #1 the postion on your clutch actuator arm.

Forgot to mention, I took the arm / rod apart and readjusted the alignment because it made more sense for the angle of the cable. However the arm was VERY close to the carb when fully pulled so I just took it apart and realigned it all.

Be sure on the other side where the clutch actuator rod fits into the case cover that it is grease in its housing where it pivots back and forth as well and do the same with the straight bucking bar that the actuator arm pushes in...you want a dab of grease on both ends of that bar to minimise wear not only to the bucking bar contact point with the actuator but also the other end where it comes into contact with the steel ball bearing inside the casing...Now see if that doesnt help things out a little...Remember that when your done, with the clutch lever released, you want to see your clutch arm in the same position asmine in my pic.

Thanks for the advice... I have done this a few times now. I'm using Castrol MP (what I had lying around).

Same grease I used on the gears, most of it has flown off of the gears at this point so I'll probably follow your suggestion and grab some lucas red next time I'm in town.

Lets at least start with the basic clutch adjustment first...with the clutch lever totally released, do the cable end adjustment to match mine in the pics so it runs in a fairly straight line not so far inward as your is.

Now after that is done, Pull the clutch lever in and lock it in place whilst you adjust the flower nut on the right hand side of the engine where those clicky gears of yours are at...I ususally have it tight enough where the rear wheel won't turn freely at all and then back it off a notch at a time until the rear wheel will turn without any clutch resistence...Then put the lock screw back in place to keep it locked in place.

I wish I would have done this when I first did the kit... clutch is much better adjusted now, the 3rd click on the clutch handle actually works..

So I did notice while doing this that with the clutch disengaged, the large gear has a lot of play both in and out (along shaft direction) and back and forth (towards smaller drive gear). I uploaded another video, it's kind of hard to see but it's definitely visible. I haven't taken the clutch plate completely off yet to look into anything further but if you think I should I can do that easily. No idea if this amount of play here is normal or not.

Thanks for the help so far.



(picture is clutch engaged, no cable tension. Video is clutch disengaged, on 3rd notch on the handle).
 

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Good...I can barely hear the clicking now...lol...and the clutch arm looks perfect if that is indeed the clutch release position (clutch fully engaged where the bike can no longer roll)...now all you need to do is just make sure you have all those points greased up and go for a ride...lol...looks really good now.

EDIT...I might be anal retentive here, but I actually use Q-Tip swabs to apply the grease to the gears to eliminate the possibility of using too much that can slop off into the clutch pads...lol.
 
Thanks. It's better for sure, I think it has something to do with how much play is in the large gear when the clutch is disengaged. I'll pull the cover and inspect it again after a few more trips just to keep an eye on it. Still a bit of play in the crank gear but I would assume it's probably normal.

Regardless I'll run it till it blows.

Tomorrow I'm making a new exhaust gasket and intake gasket based off of recommendations I've seen here regarding the stock gaskets failing. Put everything back together and see what happens. (I have the proper gasket material stock).
 
Tomorrow I'm making a new exhaust gasket
Get rid of the stock exhaust gasket that came with the engine kit and clean off any other "goop" that you may have tried along with it.

Use this Toyota Highlander O2 sensor gasket instead, available at Toyota dealership or also at autoparts stores such as Auto Zone, Advance Auto Parts, etc.

Here is the current Toyota dealer parts#/stock#, for that gasket...89466-20020-83.

If you shop Autozone, Amazon, etc., its a "Dorman" brand part number ...Dorman 47021


When installing this gasket, you will need to slightly elongate the holes that go over the studs/bolts...I use a slightly larger bolt to do this through those holes.

You will notice that this gasket has some metal affixed to both sides of the gasket...The side that has the most metal is what goes against the exhaust pipe itself...DO NOT use any gasket sealers with this gasket.

As long as your motor has a 40mm exhaust from stud to stud this should work great as it does on my Zeda 80 triple 40.
 
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Made my own gaskets since I already had the materials laying around. I only use a tiny amount of ultra black on the intake side. never anything on exhaust side.

Went for a nice 10 mile ride last evening, bike is running well. Still making some noises but I'm anal about noises, it's probably fine. It's my first kit so they probably all make the same damn noise. I guess I'll find out within the next 100 miles.
 
Welcome and good luck. It took me a couple months to get my first bike going reliably. One of the biggest improvements I made was switching to a disc brake rear wheel and getting a sprocket that mounts to the disc brake holes on the hub. Never tried one of those hub adapters but it sounds like they are gimmicky and full of headaches. If you don't go off road, they have 26" mag wheels that come with the rear sprocket on amazon. Mag wheels are unforgiving off road.

I try to use my bike primarily as well. I ride 15 miles to work daily except when I break something on the bike. Last breakdown was (well I just snapped my chain but we won't discuss that) when I put too hot of a spark plug in and everything not metal started smoking after a 37 mile run.
 
Made my own gaskets since I already had the materials laying around. I only use a tiny amount of ultra black on the intake side. never anything on exhaust side.

Went for a nice 10 mile ride last evening, bike is running well. Still making some noises but I'm anal about noises, it's probably fine. It's my first kit so they probably all make the same damn noise. I guess I'll find out within the next 100 miles.
Yeah every time I hear a new noise I wonder whats gonna kill me now...
 
Yeah every time I hear a new noise I wonder whats gonna kill me now...

That's one thing we all notice is a new noise on our bike,
Worth investigating because ya never know, something as simple as a squeak just might need a dab of grease before it ruins something.
Other noises are more concerning like a Knock.
The engine knocks to get your attention saying "FIX ME" before I blow up :LOL:
 
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