Crankshaft rod play

If you are willing to sacrifice a couple of crank bearings you could make yourself a set of setup bearings. Basically file or sand down the inner race inside diameter (where it meets the crankshaft) just enough that the bearings slip off an on easily, but with no slop. This would allow you to setup and adjust shims without the need to press the crank bearings off and on multiple times. This also gives you a chance to try and center the crank by adjusting shim stack heights between each side and getting everything truly dialed in.

I make setup bearings for a lot of different builds and rebuilds. It's one of the few things the extremely cheap chinese bearings are actually good for.
 
If you are willing to sacrifice a couple of crank bearings you could make yourself a set of setup bearings. Basically file or sand down the inner race inside diameter (where it meets the crankshaft) just enough that the bearings slip off an on easily, but with no slop. This would allow you to setup and adjust shims without the need to press the crank bearings off and on multiple times. This also gives you a chance to try and center the crank by adjusting shim stack heights between each side and getting everything truly dialed in.

I make setup bearings for a lot of different builds and rebuilds. It's one of the few things the extremely cheap chinese bearings are actually good for.

Good idea. I'll need to order some higher quality bearings while I'm at it. What kind of bearings and shims do you recommend?
 
Good idea. I'll need to order some higher quality bearings while I'm at it. What kind of bearings and shims do you recommend?
Bearings are 6202. As far as what type. any good brand such as skf, Timken, FAG, etc. Make sure they are C3 spec and preferably high speed rated.

These are the exact bearings I use on my engines. They are a touch pricey, but I have never had one fail.


As for shims, 15mm arbor shims of whatever thicknesses you need is sufficient. You can buy a big pack of very thin ones and stack, or buy individuals ofnthe right sizes to get your desired result.
 
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Say, does a person seat the crank bearings all the way until the bearing is directly against the back of the bearing support in the case? And when installing the crank seals the inner circumference where the shaft goes through is lubricated, should a person lubricate the outer circumference as well then install that all the way until it touches the bearing? Thank you. I appreciate it.
 
Say, does a person seat the crank bearings all the way until the bearing is directly against the back of the bearing support in the case? And when installing the crank seals the inner circumference where the shaft goes through is lubricated, should a person lubricate the outer circumference as well then install that all the way until it touches the bearing? Thank you. I appreciate it.
The bearing should be seated all the way against the housing. Throw your bearing in the freezer over night and warm up the housing before you drop the bearing in, it might take just a tap to get it in, if that.
 
Say, does a person seat the crank bearings all the way until the bearing is directly against the back of the bearing support in the case? And when installing the crank seals the inner circumference where the shaft goes through is lubricated, should a person lubricate the outer circumference as well then install that all the way until it touches the bearing? Thank you. I appreciate it.
No lube on the outer race, it's a pressed fit.
 
Say, does a person seat the crank bearings all the way until the bearing is directly against the back of the bearing support in the case? And when installing the crank seals the inner circumference where the shaft goes through is lubricated, should a person lubricate the outer circumference as well then install that all the way until it touches the bearing? Thank you. I appreciate it.
Use assembly lube when putting things back together
 
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